drive motor ?

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Hi guys, I have a bobcat 753-C serial number 5127-24369. I am having a problem with right side steering (drive) dealer says need new drive motor. The problem is that the right side will NOT move until control stick is 2/3rds back and the its full steam in reverse. forward it works fine. Left side control is fine small lever movement equals small tire rotation. I am not able to fine steer on right side. Recently had broken axle bearing on right rear, replaced all rear axle bearings and chains at this time. Would this have cause damage to the motor that I am now seeing. Also, any other suggestions or is the drive motor the only option.
 
Axle bearings will have nothing to do with it.
Did the dealer see it or is this just over the phone?
The drive motors can be re-sealed, depending on what model, it can be done for about $5, the newer ones cost more though as you need a genuine eaton seal kit.
Check the alloy linkages on the top of the pump. If they wear, moving the stick a fair bit will do nothing, then it will just grab and go faster than you wanted, it makes controling very hard. Get a screwdriver and see if the alloy blocks that the steering levers connect to at the pump move up and down. They should be locked on the shaft tight, if they move, you need to replace them and do them up nice and tight.
 
Axle bearings will have nothing to do with it.
Did the dealer see it or is this just over the phone?
The drive motors can be re-sealed, depending on what model, it can be done for about $5, the newer ones cost more though as you need a genuine eaton seal kit.
Check the alloy linkages on the top of the pump. If they wear, moving the stick a fair bit will do nothing, then it will just grab and go faster than you wanted, it makes controling very hard. Get a screwdriver and see if the alloy blocks that the steering levers connect to at the pump move up and down. They should be locked on the shaft tight, if they move, you need to replace them and do them up nice and tight.
Dealer has in shop now. I have had an anonymous bobcat mechanic come over and check all linkage adjustments at my home. no mechanical adjustments helped. They first stated that this repair will only take a few minutes, then upon getting it in the shop, they say that case drains have been checked for contamination, relief valve springs are ok and won't know exactly what cost to rebuild could be due to availability of parts , so of course they wish to replace the entire motor which will take them 3-5 days to get, also relieving them of much reliability. If I replace entire motor, they can't go wrong sort of thing. I forgot to mention earlier machine has nearly 2900 hrs. on it, so I bought expecting a few repairs, but they seem to be majors up front. Will a leaking seal cause this behavior, I have not seen any fluid leaks, I expect that if it is leaking it must be internal..
 
Dealer has in shop now. I have had an anonymous bobcat mechanic come over and check all linkage adjustments at my home. no mechanical adjustments helped. They first stated that this repair will only take a few minutes, then upon getting it in the shop, they say that case drains have been checked for contamination, relief valve springs are ok and won't know exactly what cost to rebuild could be due to availability of parts , so of course they wish to replace the entire motor which will take them 3-5 days to get, also relieving them of much reliability. If I replace entire motor, they can't go wrong sort of thing. I forgot to mention earlier machine has nearly 2900 hrs. on it, so I bought expecting a few repairs, but they seem to be majors up front. Will a leaking seal cause this behavior, I have not seen any fluid leaks, I expect that if it is leaking it must be internal..
Leaking seals won't kill a motor.
With those hours, they should only just be worn in. If maintained they should do 10,000 or more hours.
The drive motor can be rebuilt, you don't need a new one. You can also buy them non genuine to save even more. I hope you don't get too nasty of a bill.
 
Leaking seals won't kill a motor.
With those hours, they should only just be worn in. If maintained they should do 10,000 or more hours.
The drive motor can be rebuilt, you don't need a new one. You can also buy them non genuine to save even more. I hope you don't get too nasty of a bill.
Thanks for your help Tazza. Where can I have motor rebuilt? I will probably try to get the Bad one from them and see If I can have it rebuilt for use on the left side. I've looked at loader parts source and see that the dealer is quoting similar price for the motor as on their website. If can't get the core, i'll know where to go to have left one rebuilt when it is needed
 
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Thanks for your help Tazza. Where can I have motor rebuilt? I will probably try to get the Bad one from them and see If I can have it rebuilt for use on the left side. I've looked at loader parts source and see that the dealer is quoting similar price for the motor as on their website. If can't get the core, i'll know where to go to have left one rebuilt when it is needed
LPS will do it, depending on the problem, you could do it your self too.
If they are installing a NEW motor, don't try and get it back, get it back. You paid full price, it's yours. If it was a reman, they could need it back for a core.
It's never a bad idea to have a spare kicking around, even if it never gets used, you never do know.
 
LPS will do it, depending on the problem, you could do it your self too.
If they are installing a NEW motor, don't try and get it back, get it back. You paid full price, it's yours. If it was a reman, they could need it back for a core.
It's never a bad idea to have a spare kicking around, even if it never gets used, you never do know.
My sentiments exactly. Thanks for all the info.
 

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