drive motor

[earmuffs]

i just took my drive motor of my 732, because it was slipping or just not working hardly at all. took it apart from what i can see is 1 of the rubber o rings that go on the passage hole is squashed. do you think this could be the trouble? the 3 large o rings dont look to good either. but i dont see any grooves or scratches. are there pics out here of a pump apart?

 

[m610]

Generally if drive motors do not have full power it is the rotating group or contact surface that is worn. I am not aware of any O rings inside a Vickers motor. Then again I forgot what type of hydraulic motor a 732 has.

 

[Tazza]

The “passage hole” is that the small one? if so, thats the case drain, it won't cause the problem. Its hard to say about the nylon seals, i worked on a set of motors i have. I replaced the O rings but not the nylon ones, it worked just fine.
If you can, swap motors from side to side. If the problem moves its the motor, if not, its the pump. I had to do this myself recently to confirm the pump was ok.

 

[earmuffs]

The “passage hole” is that the small one? if so, thats the case drain, it won't cause the problem. Its hard to say about the nylon seals, i worked on a set of motors i have. I replaced the O rings but not the nylon ones, it worked just fine.
If you can, swap motors from side to side. If the problem moves its the motor, if not, its the pump. I had to do this myself recently to confirm the pump was ok.

i ordered a seal kit for it but i probably will switch them when i reinstall. it would be nice if it had swivel ends on the hoses.seems like a common thing, on start up it drives ok after a few minutes its slow and noisy.

 

[earmuffs]

i ordered a seal kit for it but i probably will switch them when i reinstall. it would be nice if it had swivel ends on the hoses.seems like a common thing, on start up it drives ok after a few minutes its slow and noisy.

there is a groove on the valve plate large enough to feel with a finger nail. could this be my culprit? forward and revers act the same.

 

[Fishfiles]

there is a groove on the valve plate large enough to feel with a finger nail. could this be my culprit? forward and revers act the same.

Muffs , the oring inside the travel motor that I see go out and cause a problem is a ring which is about the size of a quarter , it rest on the oppisite side of the output shaft and is the center of the end plate , and it's get covered by a piece of plastic material which is kinda like a backup ring but has sides on it which cover the oring on three sides , sometimes I have seen these two pieces are totally blown out of the grove in which they sit in , in this state I find the machine will hesitate for a couple of seconds before it tries to move and sometimes have seen where it barely will move at all

 

[earmuffs]

Muffs , the oring inside the travel motor that I see go out and cause a problem is a ring which is about the size of a quarter , it rest on the oppisite side of the output shaft and is the center of the end plate , and it's get covered by a piece of plastic material which is kinda like a backup ring but has sides on it which cover the oring on three sides , sometimes I have seen these two pieces are totally blown out of the grove in which they sit in , in this state I find the machine will hesitate for a couple of seconds before it tries to move and sometimes have seen where it barely will move at all

on the balance plate i have a inner and outer seal, both are white plastic and seem to be ok. i found a link to tazza's hydromotor manual. http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/hydromotor/ this helped me to know what the parts are called and will help to assemble it but i still dont see a problem other than some grooves in/on the valve plate where it runs against the balance plate. thanks for the help so far.

 

[Tazza]

on the balance plate i have a inner and outer seal, both are white plastic and seem to be ok. i found a link to tazza's hydromotor manual. http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/hydromotor/ this helped me to know what the parts are called and will help to assemble it but i still dont see a problem other than some grooves in/on the valve plate where it runs against the balance plate. thanks for the help so far.

I don't think the small marks on the valve plate will cause you massive drive issues, it will move slightly slower. I did repair mine with a sheet of glass and wet and dry as i thought i had the same problem. It turned out it was the wrong geroler causing a lack of speed. It will take quite a while to flatten it with sandpaper and glass, but it can be done.

 

[earmuffs]

I don't think the small marks on the valve plate will cause you massive drive issues, it will move slightly slower. I did repair mine with a sheet of glass and wet and dry as i thought i had the same problem. It turned out it was the wrong geroler causing a lack of speed. It will take quite a while to flatten it with sandpaper and glass, but it can be done.

what grit paper did you use?

 

[Tazza]

what grit paper did you use?

I started at about 2-400 to get the deeper marks out, then worked up to about 1,200 to get the finish. It will clog up and wear pretty fast, so you will find say 800 grit will even give you a nice finish.
Trial and error, I used what paper i had on hand
I even gave it a squirt of WD40 to help it give a slightly less agressive cut, oil will also work but i find it makes it stick to the paper a bit too much.