Drive clutch, cap, wires, points and service manual needed

[techy]

Anyone know where I can buy parts for my M610? I need the following. Drive clutch, spark plugs cap, wires, points and service manual. Also does anyone know what spark plugs I should put in it? Also it runs kind of rough. It does not smoke so I am thinking it needs a tuneup. Does anyone know how much compression the cylinders should have? And finally, does this model use a modern style bucket or do I need to buy one up to a certain era? I have a smooth bucket but need one with claws. Thanks!

 

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it's a ford gas engine right? all the engine parts should be cheap and easily available at any auto parts store.

 

[HanSolo]

That machine has a 30 HP air cooled Wisconsin engine. Those were used in many, many different farm and industrial machines so parts are pretty easy to get. You'll probably need the serial number off the engine to narrow your search down. I had one in a M700 Bobcat I restored and I did end up having it re-built. Good compression should be 90-120 psi. You can find parts on eBay pretty frequently. There's also some real helpful videos on YouTube of guys tuning up those engines. The original bucket depends on if the machine has Bob-tach or not. That's the attachment quick release mechanism that's standard on all now. I believe it was just being introduced with the 610 and was an option. If you've got that, then finding a tooth bucket won't be a problem. The standard bucket on those was 60" wide.

 

[6brnorma]

That machine has a 30 HP air cooled Wisconsin engine. Those were used in many, many different farm and industrial machines so parts are pretty easy to get. You'll probably need the serial number off the engine to narrow your search down. I had one in a M700 Bobcat I restored and I did end up having it re-built. Good compression should be 90-120 psi. You can find parts on eBay pretty frequently. There's also some real helpful videos on YouTube of guys tuning up those engines. The original bucket depends on if the machine has Bob-tach or not. That's the attachment quick release mechanism that's standard on all now. I believe it was just being introduced with the 610 and was an option. If you've got that, then finding a tooth bucket won't be a problem. The standard bucket on those was 60" wide.

Han covered everything pretty well......I would add just a couple of things. That is the VH4D Wisconsin engine. At one time you could get all of the distributor parts at NAPA but I'm not sure that is the case anymore. I use the D16 plugs with a .30 gap. I am assuming when you say you need the clutch that you actually need the clutch "lining" which you will probably need to get from a Bobcat dealer. If in fact you need the actual clutch pressure "plate" ..... they are harder to find and you will most likely need to find a dealer......though a used one from a 'salvage' machine is much cheaper. Get the manual from e-bay.

 

[Mikefromcny]

Han covered everything pretty well......I would add just a couple of things. That is the VH4D Wisconsin engine. At one time you could get all of the distributor parts at NAPA but I'm not sure that is the case anymore. I use the D16 plugs with a .30 gap. I am assuming when you say you need the clutch that you actually need the clutch "lining" which you will probably need to get from a Bobcat dealer. If in fact you need the actual clutch pressure "plate" ..... they are harder to find and you will most likely need to find a dealer......though a used one from a 'salvage' machine is much cheaper. Get the manual from e-bay.

I have a 610 also. As much as I dislike Napa, they had a new fuel pump in stock for mine. Car quest also has listing for the VH4 I believe.

 

[techy]

I have a 610 also. As much as I dislike Napa, they had a new fuel pump in stock for mine. Car quest also has listing for the VH4 I believe.

Thanks guys! Yes I am talking about the clutch fibers. Not sure if I need them but guessing it does. The right side handle does not seem to do much steering. Left side seems fine. How well are these machines supposed to dig? I tried to pick up some hard pack dirt and it just sat there. The wheels would not spin or anything. It was like I was pushing a wall. I was expecting the wheels to spin. Is this and indication that the belt is slipping or clutch lining is bad? Thanks!

 

[jerry]

Thanks guys! Yes I am talking about the clutch fibers. Not sure if I need them but guessing it does. The right side handle does not seem to do much steering. Left side seems fine. How well are these machines supposed to dig? I tried to pick up some hard pack dirt and it just sat there. The wheels would not spin or anything. It was like I was pushing a wall. I was expecting the wheels to spin. Is this and indication that the belt is slipping or clutch lining is bad? Thanks!

You may not even need clutch disks, the one I had acted like that and it was just the needle thrust bearing were shot in the clutch. Take the side cover off and dredge the chain case with a magnet , you will find bits of bearings ,wrenchs and other assorted stuff in there.

 

[techy]

You may not even need clutch disks, the one I had acted like that and it was just the needle thrust bearing were shot in the clutch. Take the side cover off and dredge the chain case with a magnet , you will find bits of bearings ,wrenchs and other assorted stuff in there.

I pulled the side cover off on the right side and all looked good ..that is without taking the fibers out. I adjusted the levers and now it seems to be working well. I found the engine is not firing on the left bank....I believe it is the 1 and 3 cylinders. It appears to be a leaky intake on that side of the engine. Before I tear into this thing is there an easy way for me to make sure I have the VH4D engine. There is no model number on the machine as the plate below your legs is missing. Is there a serial number on the engine somewhere that will tell me what engine I have. I am pretty sure it is the 610 model which would be the VH4D but hard to say for sure without an official model number. Thanks!

 

[HanSolo]

I pulled the side cover off on the right side and all looked good ..that is without taking the fibers out. I adjusted the levers and now it seems to be working well. I found the engine is not firing on the left bank....I believe it is the 1 and 3 cylinders. It appears to be a leaky intake on that side of the engine. Before I tear into this thing is there an easy way for me to make sure I have the VH4D engine. There is no model number on the machine as the plate below your legs is missing. Is there a serial number on the engine somewhere that will tell me what engine I have. I am pretty sure it is the 610 model which would be the VH4D but hard to say for sure without an official model number. Thanks!

It's unlikely that it isn't a VH4D. Someone would have to modify the drive train considerably to put something else in there. Does the engine have the cooling covers? There should be an ID plate on one of the head covers.On my M700 it was on the right side (cylinders 1-3) but had been painted over numerous times.

 

[6brnorma]

It's unlikely that it isn't a VH4D. Someone would have to modify the drive train considerably to put something else in there. Does the engine have the cooling covers? There should be an ID plate on one of the head covers.On my M700 it was on the right side (cylinders 1-3) but had been painted over numerous times.

Techy.....why do you say it is a 610 if there is no ID plate? The M-600 had a VF4D while the M-610 had a VH4D......they are interchangeable with no modifications what so ever. Establish which engine you have and you'll *probably* know which model you have. The VH4D is an even 90 degree engine while the VF4D is 90-135-90-45. Old Machinist probably has a better way, but.....I just open the Distributor cap and check the rotor. The 'brass' portion on the VH4D will be straight while the 'brass' portion on the VF4D will have a "T" design on the end to compensate for the varying firing angle. (Some one jump in here with a better way). Also.....I would highly recommend you go back and check the clutch 'linings'......metal on metal WILL cost you a considerable sum later.

 

[HanSolo]

Techy.....why do you say it is a 610 if there is no ID plate? The M-600 had a VF4D while the M-610 had a VH4D......they are interchangeable with no modifications what so ever. Establish which engine you have and you'll *probably* know which model you have. The VH4D is an even 90 degree engine while the VF4D is 90-135-90-45. Old Machinist probably has a better way, but.....I just open the Distributor cap and check the rotor. The 'brass' portion on the VH4D will be straight while the 'brass' portion on the VF4D will have a "T" design on the end to compensate for the varying firing angle. (Some one jump in here with a better way). Also.....I would highly recommend you go back and check the clutch 'linings'......metal on metal WILL cost you a considerable sum later.

I stand corrected. Thank you for the info.

 

[6brnorma]

I stand corrected. Thank you for the info.

Sorry Han.....I didn't mean for it to look like I was correcting you. He said it was a M-610 so you were correct that it *should* be a VH4D and to repower with anything else (except the VF4D) would require considerable modification. Dropping a VF4D engine in a 610 would be crazy IMHO but you never know......"if" it is a VF4D engine, my guess it is a 600 not a 610.

 

[OldMachinist]

Sorry Han.....I didn't mean for it to look like I was correcting you. He said it was a M-610 so you were correct that it *should* be a VH4D and to repower with anything else (except the VF4D) would require considerable modification. Dropping a VF4D engine in a 610 would be crazy IMHO but you never know......"if" it is a VF4D engine, my guess it is a 600 not a 610.

techy like 6brnorma says you really need to determine which engine you have. The cap and rotor will be different between the VF4D and the VH4D. I think the easiest way is to look at the distributor cam. VH4D has lobes even spaced, VF4D will have uneven spacing.

 

[HanSolo]

Sorry Han.....I didn't mean for it to look like I was correcting you. He said it was a M-610 so you were correct that it *should* be a VH4D and to repower with anything else (except the VF4D) would require considerable modification. Dropping a VF4D engine in a 610 would be crazy IMHO but you never know......"if" it is a VF4D engine, my guess it is a 600 not a 610.

No worries 6brnorma I like to be the first to admit my mistakes... even if it turns out not to be a mistake. I hope techie does have the 610 with the VH4D. I think he'll have an easier time sourcing parts.

 

[techy]

No worries 6brnorma I like to be the first to admit my mistakes... even if it turns out not to be a mistake. I hope techie does have the 610 with the VH4D. I think he'll have an easier time sourcing parts.

The cam lobes are evenly spaced so i suppose i have the vh4d. Sounds like good news. I just replaced the intake gaskets and all the cylinders are firing now. Prior to the new gaskets just the 2&4 were firing. Bad news. The manifold was warped and the flange cracked on the #3 cylinder. Still does not leak fir now. Looking for a new manifold if anyone had one for sale. Now it is time to figure out why it starte running bad after 15 minutes of hard running. I am guessing i is too much fuel or moisture in the distributor cap. Looks like i have a few bugs to work out. Oh and some leaks. Can the seals in the drive pump be replaced."? It is leaking bad! Thanks for all the good advice! This forum is great!

 

[6brnorma]

The cam lobes are evenly spaced so i suppose i have the vh4d. Sounds like good news. I just replaced the intake gaskets and all the cylinders are firing now. Prior to the new gaskets just the 2&4 were firing. Bad news. The manifold was warped and the flange cracked on the #3 cylinder. Still does not leak fir now. Looking for a new manifold if anyone had one for sale. Now it is time to figure out why it starte running bad after 15 minutes of hard running. I am guessing i is too much fuel or moisture in the distributor cap. Looks like i have a few bugs to work out. Oh and some leaks. Can the seals in the drive pump be replaced."? It is leaking bad! Thanks for all the good advice! This forum is great!

I'm guessing that by 'Drive pump' you are talking about the hydraulic pump. Hydraulics are not my strong suit but I'll share what little I know. I am aware of two pumps on the M-610, one is a Parker and the other is a Cessna.......I have rebuilt both and they are fairly simple as long as (in my case) I keep all the parts lined up exactly as I remove them. The "Bobcat" repair/rebuild kit part numbers are: Parker #992997 and Cessna #894215. Follow the instructions in the service manual and it's pretty straight forward......in case you are a Hydraulic 'dumbarse' like me......don't forget to scratch a line across the entire body so you get it back together correctly.

 

[techy]

I'm guessing that by 'Drive pump' you are talking about the hydraulic pump. Hydraulics are not my strong suit but I'll share what little I know. I am aware of two pumps on the M-610, one is a Parker and the other is a Cessna.......I have rebuilt both and they are fairly simple as long as (in my case) I keep all the parts lined up exactly as I remove them. The "Bobcat" repair/rebuild kit part numbers are: Parker #992997 and Cessna #894215. Follow the instructions in the service manual and it's pretty straight forward......in case you are a Hydraulic 'dumbarse' like me......don't forget to scratch a line across the entire body so you get it back together correctly.

Hey thanks for the part numbers! I looked online and have not found anywhere that recognizes those part numbers for the pumps. Can you tell me where I can buy them? Parker #992997 Cessna #894215 Thanks!

 

[6brnorma]

Hey thanks for the part numbers! I looked online and have not found anywhere that recognizes those part numbers for the pumps. Can you tell me where I can buy them? Parker #992997 Cessna #894215 Thanks!

The numbers I gave you are "Bobcat" numbers. Any "Bobcat" dealer can order them and ship to you....or you can take the pump to a local 'Hydraulic' shop and they can cross reference them for you. Where are you located?

 

[techy]

The numbers I gave you are "Bobcat" numbers. Any "Bobcat" dealer can order them and ship to you....or you can take the pump to a local 'Hydraulic' shop and they can cross reference them for you. Where are you located?

I am near Cincinnati ohio. I will pull the hydraulic drive pump off to see which one i have. It is leaking bad. Does anyone know if it ok to run the generic hydraulic fluid sold at tractor supply in the 610. I added 5 gallons of it to what was already in there and have not heard any bad noises so i am thinking it it ok. The cluid that was in there was red so guessing dextron.