Controls jerky at times

[Clone]

I bought my LX565 knowing it was very jerky a couple weeks ago. I fixed ~90% of the jerkiness with new plastic guides on the front of the centering plate, but I can't seem to get the last 10% figured out. The clamps on top of the pumps are tight, the rollers are intact and look good and no play in the linkage. The only play I can find is in the hinge points of both sticks. Could this cause these problems? The dampers seem okay (they aren't leaking) but I haven't unhooked them yet to stroke without linkage. Any ideas to make this a completely smooth machine again? Also I'm leaking oil from the top of the pumps just below the clamps. Can this seal be changed out without removing the pumps? It looks like a plate could be holding the seals down with some little torx screws if I remember right. I'm thinking I need item 28 while looking at Messicks on the front pump?

 

[deaop06]

Clone, Don't know about the 565 but what does it do when you block all four wheels off ground? On my 555 the left wheels were creeping forward and would cause it to jerk some. My left shock was leaking. I replaced the shock and adjusted the creep out and it is fine now. I am surprised you did not get an answer from someone. There are some very good people on this forum. Good luck.

 

[Clone]

Clone, Don't know about the 565 but what does it do when you block all four wheels off ground? On my 555 the left wheels were creeping forward and would cause it to jerk some. My left shock was leaking. I replaced the shock and adjusted the creep out and it is fine now. I am surprised you did not get an answer from someone. There are some very good people on this forum. Good luck.

I did block the machine up and adjust some creep out when I did the bushings. No creep now. But this jerkiness is at 3/4-full throttle working the machine. Sometimes when I go to change directions, the controls start shaking hard and I'm not jamming the controls. I pretty much have to release the pressure I'm applying and it smooths out. My next thoughts are the hand control stick hinge bushings and/or the shock dampers. Just hoping someone with the same problems before might share their experiences.

 

[deaop06]

I did block the machine up and adjust some creep out when I did the bushings. No creep now. But this jerkiness is at 3/4-full throttle working the machine. Sometimes when I go to change directions, the controls start shaking hard and I'm not jamming the controls. I pretty much have to release the pressure I'm applying and it smooths out. My next thoughts are the hand control stick hinge bushings and/or the shock dampers. Just hoping someone with the same problems before might share their experiences.

On my machine the dampers have an adjustment on one end. Mine are set with no end play. Sounds like your machine is going to neutral when you release the stick. Do you have manuals for your machine? I bought all three for mine as it had some issues when I got it. I have a shop service manual, a parts manual and an owners manual. They have been a godsend for me and have saved me a lot of money. The shock I needed was at a cost of $225 if I could find it. It is from Volks Wagon Bus front steering damper. I had to machine a grove in one end to make it work. The shock cost around $30. As to your problem I wish I could help. Did you check the chain slop when you had it up? If they are too loose that may make it shake . Also these machines like to have the bucket as low as possible. If you have it too high they can be a little unstable. Again good luck. You need infinite patience's to work on these skid steers.

 

[Mike10]

Sounds like you have play in the linkage yet. It will not be the pivot bushings on your levers. There is a bushing on the other end of the yellow plate where it attaches to the engine bell housing which can wear allowing the plate to move laterally when the levers are stroked. You also need to remove that plate so you can make sure the levers are actually tight on the hydro shafts...........To replace the seals, remove the plate, the levers and the two screws holding down the plate over the seal. Remove the seal and install a new one.

 

[Clone]

Sounds like you have play in the linkage yet. It will not be the pivot bushings on your levers. There is a bushing on the other end of the yellow plate where it attaches to the engine bell housing which can wear allowing the plate to move laterally when the levers are stroked. You also need to remove that plate so you can make sure the levers are actually tight on the hydro shafts...........To replace the seals, remove the plate, the levers and the two screws holding down the plate over the seal. Remove the seal and install a new one.

I checked the plate after work tonight and I do some a little up and down play at that rear spring bushing. There doesn't seem like that much but I guess I'm only chasing they last 10% right? One of my front bushings was completely gone and the other was loose. It was uncontrollable at anything over 1/2 throttle and turning. I will order those up and change them out when I do the pump seals. Thanks Mike.

 

[Clone]

I checked the plate after work tonight and I do some a little up and down play at that rear spring bushing. There doesn't seem like that much but I guess I'm only chasing they last 10% right? One of my front bushings was completely gone and the other was loose. It was uncontrollable at anything over 1/2 throttle and turning. I will order those up and change them out when I do the pump seals. Thanks Mike.

OK I have not ordered the bushings or seals yet. I have been using the machine more to make sure I find all the problems and order all necessary parts. I have more info on this jerky situation. It is very bad with the boom up dumping into a truck. When I tilt the bucket down with the boom up and let the cylinders bottom out shaking the dirt out, you about have to let go of the sticks, then re-grab. Just driving in general with the loader up makes the jerkiness way worse. Does all of that still point to the rear centering plate bushings? Also I have a problem at times with the tilt cylinders not holding maybe 20% of the time. It is very random but seems the worst when I don't snap the valve back closed. If I am slowly rolling the bucket back, that is usually when the tilt will not hold. I know people usually say rebuild the cylinders but something to me says this is a check valve or valve issue. Any ideas on this?

 

[Mike10]

OK I have not ordered the bushings or seals yet. I have been using the machine more to make sure I find all the problems and order all necessary parts. I have more info on this jerky situation. It is very bad with the boom up dumping into a truck. When I tilt the bucket down with the boom up and let the cylinders bottom out shaking the dirt out, you about have to let go of the sticks, then re-grab. Just driving in general with the loader up makes the jerkiness way worse. Does all of that still point to the rear centering plate bushings? Also I have a problem at times with the tilt cylinders not holding maybe 20% of the time. It is very random but seems the worst when I don't snap the valve back closed. If I am slowly rolling the bucket back, that is usually when the tilt will not hold. I know people usually say rebuild the cylinders but something to me says this is a check valve or valve issue. Any ideas on this?

Jerkiness when the boom is above the cab is normal, but made worse if you have the centering plate moving when it should not. If you read the book it tells not to have the boom up when traveling. If you slowly feather the bucket pedal to curl it back and the bucket just drops, you have bad packings in the cylinders. You have an unsafe machine and need to take care of it.

 

[Clone]

Jerkiness when the boom is above the cab is normal, but made worse if you have the centering plate moving when it should not. If you read the book it tells not to have the boom up when traveling. If you slowly feather the bucket pedal to curl it back and the bucket just drops, you have bad packings in the cylinders. You have an unsafe machine and need to take care of it.

I was not very clear I guess. The only traveling with the boom up is just enough to clear the truck sides when dumping just barely making it up in time. And then it stays up long enough to clear the truck sides after dumping, then right back down. I will add cylinder seals to my parts list. Thanks.

 

[Hilltop NH]

I was not very clear I guess. The only traveling with the boom up is just enough to clear the truck sides when dumping just barely making it up in time. And then it stays up long enough to clear the truck sides after dumping, then right back down. I will add cylinder seals to my parts list. Thanks.

Hi all, I've been following this forum for a few years now and have found it very helpful in repairing my 1999 LX665. When I bought my machine it also had very jerky controls when the motor was above idle. I followed all the good advice on here for resolving the problem and did find some loose screws on the steering plate but couldn't get the controls to smooth out. As preparation for a deeper investigation I decided to remove the panels on the bottom of the machine for a thorough cleaning. As I removed the inspection panel under the center of the machine the large bolt that secures the front of the hydrostatic pump to the chassis fell out on the ground. I felt like I'd just hit the lottery. Reinstalling and tightening the bolt fixed 90% of the jerkiness in the controls. This may not be the source of your problem but it's worth the 5 minutes required to check that this bolt is tight. And thank you to all the members on here who have helped accelerate my learning curve on these machines. John

 

[Jump1979man]

Hi all, I've been following this forum for a few years now and have found it very helpful in repairing my 1999 LX665. When I bought my machine it also had very jerky controls when the motor was above idle. I followed all the good advice on here for resolving the problem and did find some loose screws on the steering plate but couldn't get the controls to smooth out. As preparation for a deeper investigation I decided to remove the panels on the bottom of the machine for a thorough cleaning. As I removed the inspection panel under the center of the machine the large bolt that secures the front of the hydrostatic pump to the chassis fell out on the ground. I felt like I'd just hit the lottery. Reinstalling and tightening the bolt fixed 90% of the jerkiness in the controls. This may not be the source of your problem but it's worth the 5 minutes required to check that this bolt is tight. And thank you to all the members on here who have helped accelerate my learning curve on these machines. John

I just bought an LX665 and have this same jerky control issue. Guy said the shocks probablly needed replaced under the seat that connect to the controls....but after reading this thread I lifted the seat to see if anything was loose and couldnt find any loose bolts....that yellow plate however did move forward and back when the controls were pushed. I might just take it in to the dealer to have them do a once over on the whole machine just to see what else might be wrong with it. Its a pretty clean machine. Guy told me its a 2000 but after looking up the serial number its showing to be a 1998. How he didnt know that is beyond me but its a one owner and was his fathers the whole time till he passed away. Only 1759 hours.....hopefully lasts me a long time.