Bucket Positioning Valve plug rusted and leaking

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DVHammer

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Apr 9, 2018
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New to your site and hoping someone can help. I have a 1994 Bobcat 7753 with a bad cab design that traps moisture between the sound deadening foam and the bucket positioning valve and causes extensive rusting of all metal parts that are in contact with it. Including the 'plug' which rusted through and is now spraying hydraulic fluid. I am looking for Bobcat part number: 6647779 (old style plug on the old valve body) This is the OLD part number (described as "WAS" in the diagrams) and is now listed as part number: 6667176 (new part number for new valve body) which I have and does NOT fit. Link to bobcats diagram and is ref #9 on this diagram: https://www.bobcatpartsonline.com/#...ydraulic System/0013-Bucket Positioning Valve Somewhere along the line Bobcat changed the valve body now and want almost $800 for the entire valve body because they no longer have part number 6647779 Have to think there is at least one of these parts on a shelf somewhere. Hopefully someone here might have a lead as to where to find it.....
 

Tazza

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Is it just a fitting that is different that you can get an adaptor for? I thought when they changed a part to say a new number will fit, it should fit....
Is it possible to repair the old valve body with a torch and bronze filler? I have repaired a few valves that rusted through like this. Give it a good clean with a wire wheel or sand blaster and braze up the pin hols created from rust. Give it a good coat of paint when done to stop it rusting again.
 
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DVHammer

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Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
6
Is it just a fitting that is different that you can get an adaptor for? I thought when they changed a part to say a new number will fit, it should fit....
Is it possible to repair the old valve body with a torch and bronze filler? I have repaired a few valves that rusted through like this. Give it a good clean with a wire wheel or sand blaster and braze up the pin hols created from rust. Give it a good coat of paint when done to stop it rusting again.
They changed the entire valve body but it appears to be the same in the schematic. The thread size on the new one is bigger and does not have the spring inside like the old. Problem is that it is also the spring retainer.

Tried to repair it last night and was a toss up to weld or braze. Welder was hooked up and ready so it won the toss. STUPID! As soon as I pulled the trigger it dawned on me "ITS RUSTED SO THIN IT LEAKS!" needless to say plan 'B' is now gone.

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DVHammer

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Apr 9, 2018
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They changed the entire valve body but it appears to be the same in the schematic. The thread size on the new one is bigger and does not have the spring inside like the old. Problem is that it is also the spring retainer.

Tried to repair it last night and was a toss up to weld or braze. Welder was hooked up and ready so it won the toss. STUPID! As soon as I pulled the trigger it dawned on me "ITS RUSTED SO THIN IT LEAKS!" needless to say plan 'B' is now gone.
Looks like it won't let me post pics. Might want to see if you can copy/paste the link to see it.
 

flyerdan

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Mar 7, 2009
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983
Looks like it won't let me post pics. Might want to see if you can copy/paste the link to see it.
I fixed your picture links so they work now, have you been to any hydraulic shops to see if they have one either on the shelf or in the misc. parts bin? Chances are that Bobcat uses third party components and puts their own part number on things, but they probably are used in several applications. Someone who works on these all the time might know what crosses.
Worst case, take it to a machine shop and have them duplicate it; it will be a lot less than $800 for a new valve body.
 

Tazza

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I fixed your picture links so they work now, have you been to any hydraulic shops to see if they have one either on the shelf or in the misc. parts bin? Chances are that Bobcat uses third party components and puts their own part number on things, but they probably are used in several applications. Someone who works on these all the time might know what crosses.
Worst case, take it to a machine shop and have them duplicate it; it will be a lot less than $800 for a new valve body.
Sadly Brazing is the best option, as you said, the rust made it thin. Honestly, you can fill that hole up still. It's just a cap for the spring right? Braze that puppy up and grind the inside out with a dremel tool or drill bit and hopefully it will work still.
 
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DVHammer

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Apr 9, 2018
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Sadly Brazing is the best option, as you said, the rust made it thin. Honestly, you can fill that hole up still. It's just a cap for the spring right? Braze that puppy up and grind the inside out with a dremel tool or drill bit and hopefully it will work still.
Thanks for fixing my picture links. Brazing it would have taken me a few more minutes but saved a ton of time in the long run and definitely still beating myself up about it and will NOT make that mistake again. Did talk to our local hydraulic supply shop and they said that EATON 16224-053 should fit but that is also coming up blank. Still believe that there is has to be one of the two on a shelf somewhere. Just need to find out where. I do have a plan for repairing the old one just want to spend a little more time looking for the bolt on piece. Thanks everyone for the help, tips, and advice.....
 

rjitreeman0909

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Feb 3, 2018
Messages
54
The part is actually quite simple for anyone with a lathe and threading capability. Try locating a machine shop or someone who has the equipment. The OEM HEX WOULD BE Great but a square on the end would work just as well. Should be far less expensive and get your machine running in a couple of days. $100 would be a high side guess.
 
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DVHammer

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Apr 9, 2018
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The part is actually quite simple for anyone with a lathe and threading capability. Try locating a machine shop or someone who has the equipment. The OEM HEX WOULD BE Great but a square on the end would work just as well. Should be far less expensive and get your machine running in a couple of days. $100 would be a high side guess.
All of which I have just didn't want to hassle with it if I didn't have to.
Spent an hour last night and $1.23 for the hex from Home Depot.
Machined it down to solid, bored the hex to match which left slight threads so I made a 'bolt/plug that I could turn to match old depth of 1.189, welded the plug in place.
Had no fluid to refill but now questioning if I need to use BOBCAT at $60/2.5 gallons or can I use NAPA or Fleet Farm and about $35/5 gallons?? If so what weight am I looking for??
Hopefully these pics will show up without editing.....

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Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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All of which I have just didn't want to hassle with it if I didn't have to.
Spent an hour last night and $1.23 for the hex from Home Depot.
Machined it down to solid, bored the hex to match which left slight threads so I made a 'bolt/plug that I could turn to match old depth of 1.189, welded the plug in place.
Had no fluid to refill but now questioning if I need to use BOBCAT at $60/2.5 gallons or can I use NAPA or Fleet Farm and about $35/5 gallons?? If so what weight am I looking for??
Hopefully these pics will show up without editing.....
Nice home fabrication job! Sure is cheaper than buying a new valve.
Personally, i use engine oil. My machine is well out of warranty, so i don't need to use bobcat oil.
There have been many oil debates, some don't like the additives that go into engine oil, as long as the weight is right, i see no reason why it won't work.
 
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DVHammer

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Apr 9, 2018
Messages
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Nice home fabrication job! Sure is cheaper than buying a new valve.
Personally, i use engine oil. My machine is well out of warranty, so i don't need to use bobcat oil.
There have been many oil debates, some don't like the additives that go into engine oil, as long as the weight is right, i see no reason why it won't work.
THANKS!! I wonder how important it really is when you consider attachments and that we are probably not alone in doing this. We buy a used attachment, rent one, or lend one out to someone not knowing what oil was in what or in who's machine???? The oil in everyones equipment at that point is a complete fish bowl of oils but seems to keep on running.
 

Tazza

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THANKS!! I wonder how important it really is when you consider attachments and that we are probably not alone in doing this. We buy a used attachment, rent one, or lend one out to someone not knowing what oil was in what or in who's machine???? The oil in everyones equipment at that point is a complete fish bowl of oils but seems to keep on running.
That is true, you hire an atachment, you never know what oil was in it before, especially a backhoe attachment, you have multiple cylinders full of oil that will go into your system.
I'm not saying bobcat oil isn't better, all i know is that i have a fair few hours up on cheap and not too nasty engine oil without any issue.
 
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