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Bobcat 742 No Lift or Tilt
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<blockquote data-quote="Dave1234" data-source="post: 127500" data-attributes="member: 23099"><p>742B Radiator removal suggestions--</p><p>On my 1994 742B I recently had to remove my radiator to solder a patch over a leak in the top tank. The manual says remove the hyd oil cooler first, which would make the 3 bolts holding the radiator that are adjacent to the cab easier to access. I looked at the hyd. fitting locations vs access to the radiator bolts and it looked to me like I could get the radiator out leaving the oil cooler in place, and there-by not risking 2 leaky re-connected hyd fittings in an also near impossible to access location. My bolts weren't rusted and came out ok once loosened with an open end wrench--one finger of each hand rotating the heads by rubbing on the edges of the heads one by one to unscrew them, but it was obviously going to be a bitch to get them back in. Ultimately I was unable to re-install the original bolts--couldn't get the radiator holes lined up and get the bolts pointed up and push the bolts up and rotate them enough with the edges of my fingers to start the threads all at the same time. I went to Amazon and ordered what they called SEMS bolts, which had the equivalent of a dog point ([MEDIA=amazon]B0B1XFY8MR[/MEDIA]). Had to get 10 for $9, but they went right in, the threads started easily, and I could drive them home with a ratcheting box end wrench ( a socket wouldn't fit in the narrow space). FYI. I have big but skinny hands and long fingers Meaty hands or short fingers might not fit. And there was a lot of irritating abrasion from rubbing on the top of the oil cooler fighting the original bolts--probably should have put a piece of cloth on the oil cooler first. </p><p></p><p>While the radiator was out and the cooler was exposed I ran a strip of aluminum sheet metal through each of the fin openings in the oil cooler to push out most of the accumulated oily dust. There wasn't much, but if I had overheating problems that is where I would start, since the oil cooler blocks 1/2 of the radiator. And I would clean the radiator fins too if needed. My machine didn't show signs of past gross leakage in that area, but there was sticky dust on all surfaces associated with the blower system. And I would look for regular bubbles or belches of air in the radiator indicative of a leaky head gasket--water with air in it doesn't cool well. Good luck</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave1234, post: 127500, member: 23099"] 742B Radiator removal suggestions-- On my 1994 742B I recently had to remove my radiator to solder a patch over a leak in the top tank. The manual says remove the hyd oil cooler first, which would make the 3 bolts holding the radiator that are adjacent to the cab easier to access. I looked at the hyd. fitting locations vs access to the radiator bolts and it looked to me like I could get the radiator out leaving the oil cooler in place, and there-by not risking 2 leaky re-connected hyd fittings in an also near impossible to access location. My bolts weren't rusted and came out ok once loosened with an open end wrench--one finger of each hand rotating the heads by rubbing on the edges of the heads one by one to unscrew them, but it was obviously going to be a bitch to get them back in. Ultimately I was unable to re-install the original bolts--couldn't get the radiator holes lined up and get the bolts pointed up and push the bolts up and rotate them enough with the edges of my fingers to start the threads all at the same time. I went to Amazon and ordered what they called SEMS bolts, which had the equivalent of a dog point ([MEDIA=amazon]B0B1XFY8MR[/MEDIA]). Had to get 10 for $9, but they went right in, the threads started easily, and I could drive them home with a ratcheting box end wrench ( a socket wouldn't fit in the narrow space). FYI. I have big but skinny hands and long fingers Meaty hands or short fingers might not fit. And there was a lot of irritating abrasion from rubbing on the top of the oil cooler fighting the original bolts--probably should have put a piece of cloth on the oil cooler first. While the radiator was out and the cooler was exposed I ran a strip of aluminum sheet metal through each of the fin openings in the oil cooler to push out most of the accumulated oily dust. There wasn't much, but if I had overheating problems that is where I would start, since the oil cooler blocks 1/2 of the radiator. And I would clean the radiator fins too if needed. My machine didn't show signs of past gross leakage in that area, but there was sticky dust on all surfaces associated with the blower system. And I would look for regular bubbles or belches of air in the radiator indicative of a leaky head gasket--water with air in it doesn't cool well. Good luck [/QUOTE]
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