Hi all i have a 742 unsure of year (working on figuring it out). i was moving some brush and hit a bump from where a tree was pulled out, after that i had no power to my lift or tilt. Drove just like it did before. when i got back to my garage i parked it to work on it, and the forks still had enough power to lift front tires 6inches the off ground after the machine had been off for several minutes. not really sure what i am doing with equipment regarding hydraulics any help would be appreciated
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Glad you figured it out.
This is a common problem that I have done myself. If you push the right lever all the way to the right it sets the detent that keeps the auxiliary on. It is very easy to do while you are focused on the work in front of you. It always makes me panic for about 2 seconds until I figure out what I did.
did not realize it locks on, good to know.
no not yet, i have the ford 1.6 gas engine. now I'm going to tackle my overheating problem. I'm hoping I can just flush the radiator. any ideas on where to go about finding more info on draining and refilling the cooling system. I tried looking through the service manual and couldn't find anything. thanks
RedNeckMike
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If you call 1-800-743-4340 you can talk to a BobCat rep. and with your serial # they can look up year of machine
cdmccul
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I have the slightly smaller 632, with the same engine. I believe the proceedure is going to be to remove the temp sender, behind the alternator, and just let it drain. Then you have various ways to get to it flushed. It is possible you have clogged the bottom of the radiator, cutting down air flow...
But from what I've seen with machines of this vintage (1980s to 1990s), be prepared to have an engine issue, such as bad head gasket.
But from what I've seen with machines of this vintage (1980s to 1990s), be prepared to have an engine issue, such as bad head gasket.
742B Radiator removal suggestions--
On my 1994 742B I recently had to remove my radiator to solder a patch over a leak in the top tank. The manual says remove the hyd oil cooler first, which would make the 3 bolts holding the radiator that are adjacent to the cab easier to access. I looked at the hyd. fitting locations vs access to the radiator bolts and it looked to me like I could get the radiator out leaving the oil cooler in place, and there-by not risking 2 leaky re-connected hyd fittings in an also near impossible to access location. My bolts weren't rusted and came out ok once loosened with an open end wrench--one finger of each hand rotating the heads by rubbing on the edges of the heads one by one to unscrew them, but it was obviously going to be a bitch to get them back in. Ultimately I was unable to re-install the original bolts--couldn't get the radiator holes lined up and get the bolts pointed up and push the bolts up and rotate them enough with the edges of my fingers to start the threads all at the same time. I went to Amazon and ordered what they called SEMS bolts, which had the equivalent of a dog point (Amazon product ASIN B0B1XFY8MR). Had to get 10 for $9, but they went right in, the threads started easily, and I could drive them home with a ratcheting box end wrench ( a socket wouldn't fit in the narrow space). FYI. I have big but skinny hands and long fingers Meaty hands or short fingers might not fit. And there was a lot of irritating abrasion from rubbing on the top of the oil cooler fighting the original bolts--probably should have put a piece of cloth on the oil cooler first.
While the radiator was out and the cooler was exposed I ran a strip of aluminum sheet metal through each of the fin openings in the oil cooler to push out most of the accumulated oily dust. There wasn't much, but if I had overheating problems that is where I would start, since the oil cooler blocks 1/2 of the radiator. And I would clean the radiator fins too if needed. My machine didn't show signs of past gross leakage in that area, but there was sticky dust on all surfaces associated with the blower system. And I would look for regular bubbles or belches of air in the radiator indicative of a leaky head gasket--water with air in it doesn't cool well. Good luck
On my 1994 742B I recently had to remove my radiator to solder a patch over a leak in the top tank. The manual says remove the hyd oil cooler first, which would make the 3 bolts holding the radiator that are adjacent to the cab easier to access. I looked at the hyd. fitting locations vs access to the radiator bolts and it looked to me like I could get the radiator out leaving the oil cooler in place, and there-by not risking 2 leaky re-connected hyd fittings in an also near impossible to access location. My bolts weren't rusted and came out ok once loosened with an open end wrench--one finger of each hand rotating the heads by rubbing on the edges of the heads one by one to unscrew them, but it was obviously going to be a bitch to get them back in. Ultimately I was unable to re-install the original bolts--couldn't get the radiator holes lined up and get the bolts pointed up and push the bolts up and rotate them enough with the edges of my fingers to start the threads all at the same time. I went to Amazon and ordered what they called SEMS bolts, which had the equivalent of a dog point (Amazon product ASIN B0B1XFY8MR). Had to get 10 for $9, but they went right in, the threads started easily, and I could drive them home with a ratcheting box end wrench ( a socket wouldn't fit in the narrow space). FYI. I have big but skinny hands and long fingers Meaty hands or short fingers might not fit. And there was a lot of irritating abrasion from rubbing on the top of the oil cooler fighting the original bolts--probably should have put a piece of cloth on the oil cooler first.
While the radiator was out and the cooler was exposed I ran a strip of aluminum sheet metal through each of the fin openings in the oil cooler to push out most of the accumulated oily dust. There wasn't much, but if I had overheating problems that is where I would start, since the oil cooler blocks 1/2 of the radiator. And I would clean the radiator fins too if needed. My machine didn't show signs of past gross leakage in that area, but there was sticky dust on all surfaces associated with the blower system. And I would look for regular bubbles or belches of air in the radiator indicative of a leaky head gasket--water with air in it doesn't cool well. Good luck
