Bobcat 732 low power to starter??

[Schultzy732]

My old 732 was running intermittently, hard to start and would run for about an hour then stop. If I left it and let it cool for an hour or so it would start again and run like before. The carb is leaking gas from the drain and the machine smells like it is running rich when it does run. This issue eventually burned out my starter and battery. I've replaced the ignition coil, starter and battery. Now even though the battery is 12+ volts it is really sluggish to turn over and doesn't start. Even if it is hooked up to a booster pack it doesn't seem like the starter is getting enough power? I have a new carburetor on order to see if that helps with the fuel issue but I'm stumped about the power and welcome any information.

 

[cdmccul]

What carb did you get, by chance? I have had trouble finding one that fits correctly, they all have the linkages on the wrong sides.

 

[Schultzy732]

I purchased a Zenith 13805 from NORFAR.com. It hasn't arrived yet but I'm hoping it arrives early next week. I'll post again if there are any issues with it.

 

[cdmccul]

That one could be right. I would be interested to know. If it fits, I'd be interested in your old one.

 

[cdmccul]

As long as it comes in like the picture, that's the right linkages. You might have to play with the bellcranks to get them just right, but at least they are on the correct sides.

 

[thwerench]

Check your battery cables for the green rot at terminals. Make sure you have a good ground.

 

[cdmccul]

Check your battery cables for the green rot at terminals. Make sure you have a good ground.

This. Come to think of it, I had the same issue. I had my positive cable come apart while NAPA was closed. I had a cable end in the garage, so I cut my cable back an inch, cleaned it up, and fluxed it. Crimped it as best I could with a hammer, then flooded it with plugging solder. Instantly had moor cranking power.

 

[Tango-Charlie]

Regarding your Carb issue. I did a lot of research in 2021 when I was looking for a new carb for my Mitsubishi 4G32 gasoline 742B. I found https://www.carbs.us and emailed back and forth and they had a brand new carb for mine. It was $899.00 plus $500.00 core and had to return my old Carb as a core so they could rebuild and resell that one at a later date. I think they rebuild, have carb kits, etc., too. I decided to purchase the new carb and they even replaced all the gaskets so it would be ethanol compatible even though I only run premium gas. Try this website https://www.carbs.us/ and email them with the make of your Carb and see what they have for you. I would have liked to have kept my old carb too but with a $500.00 core I obviously decided to return it and get the core refund. Hope this helps you. I'll give the disclaimer that I'm no way associated with this company. I'm just an owner of a bobcat like you all.

 

[foton]

I would think I would run E-0 gas instead of prem. fuel. but that is just me.

 

[cdmccul]

$900 carb? Wow. Sorry, that's insane.

And almost ALL carbs are ethanol (E-10) compatible if they've had new materials installed in the last 10 years... The bigger problem with ethanol is the moisture ingress. Alcohol will soak up humidity from the air and condense as water in the bottom of the fuel. This is what causes most issues in non automotive (closed fuel systems that are emissions friendly) applications. Open or poorly sealed fuel jugs, lawn mowers, etc etc and most of our machines, have open vent fuel systems.

 

[Tango-Charlie]

When one is caught between a rock and hard spot, one doesn't have many choices are left. These carbs for the older Mitsubishi gas engines are becoming harder to find which obviously drives prices up. Supply and demand you know. I could have purchased a rebuild kit but it was in the middle of winter and I needed the machine yesterday as the saying goes. The new old stock carb they had was totally compatible and I only had to swap one bracket from the old carb to the new one. It even came with the new solenoid on the carb itself that you can't find anywhere anymore. It had all the correct linkage etc. So I made the decision to get it and swap it out on my machine to get it back in service asap. Each person has to make their own decisions and if I would have had time I may have gone a different route. By the way that carb has been running flawlessly which I'd expect for that price. My only regrets is the core deposit was so high priced I had to return it. I would have like to have kept the old carb too. Thanks and Happy New Year!

 

[cdmccul]

Very true. Rocks, hard places, and being there yesterday. I get all that.

Doesn't mean the price isn't insane.

Sure, I make a little walking money with my 632... But I forget that you might be making real money with yours (not my business to know). When it means the difference between completing the job, and not making payroll, you spend money to make money, eh?

 

[Tango-Charlie]

I agree that prices can be insane. When I was doing the research in 2020 on which way to go with my carb I saw carbs where they wanted over $1000.00. I'd hate to see what prices are now. Back in August of this year I saw brdgbldr was selling a new one for $800.00. I seriously gave it consideration as a backup carb for my 742B but someone snagged it up. He also said new ones are going for $1000.00 to $2500.00 and I'd agree with him. The older machines are great as they don't have all the electronics like the new ones and a person can still work on the older ones without all the programming modules and electronic readers one must invest in. Speaking of prices being insane it is also carrying over to automotive and truck parts, if you can find the parts. I love the older machines because you can work on them but starting to pay the price, no pun intended, that is if one can find the parts. Supply and demand. I'm retired, live in a rural setting with a 1/2 mile ridge road driveway in Wisconsin, so my machine has to be up and running in the winter to keep the driveway open. Otherwise, I have to answer to my retirement boss, the wife. hahahaha.

 

[bullrake]

The first thing that I would do for the sluggish starter is check the voltage across the starter and voltage across the battery while cranking. You shouldn't see more that a 1V drop at the starter if the battery to starter cables and connections are both good. As "thwerench" already suggested, the cables might be rotted. Been there done that.

 

[brdgbldr]

I purchased a Zenith 13805 from NORFAR.com. It hasn't arrived yet but I'm hoping it arrives early next week. I'll post again if there are any issues with it.

Make sure all of your wires are making good contact.

On my 742B there were four wires next to the engine that had blade connectors. Nine out of ten times, when I had starting problems, it ended up being one of these wires had come loose. It normally would happen after I had done some work on the engine and I must have inadvertently pulled on a wire.

The wire wouldn't disconnect. It would just wiggle loose enough the make a poor contact. The starter would act up and the engine would just not catch due to low voltage.

 

[Schultzy732]

The first thing that I would do for the sluggish starter is check the voltage across the starter and voltage across the battery while cranking. You shouldn't see more that a 1V drop at the starter if the battery to starter cables and connections are both good. As "thwerench" already suggested, the cables might be rotted. Been there done that.

Thank you. I'll give it a shot once I get an extra person to turn it over for me.

 

[craigb93]

All 700 series machines need a Starter that is in top condition because of the combined load of engine, hydraulic pump and cooling fan.
I installed an electric fuel pump 15 years ago after the ethanol fuel would eat up the OE fuel pump diaphragms in a few months. Also the fuel pump cam lobes are subject to wear to the point of low pump output at cranking speed.
Additionally I have replaced the OE 4-ga Battery Cables with 0-gage copper wire and copper lugs. It starts happily year round.
-Dick

 

[cdmccul]

I second the good starter, battery, and cables!

Mine wants to crank over for 30 to 45 seconds before it fires. I gotta change the spark plugs, I'm sure they are fouled. But with good wires, it does it even in the extreme cold.

 

[Schultzy732]

All 700 series machines need a Starter that is in top condition because of the combined load of engine, hydraulic pump and cooling fan.
I installed an electric fuel pump 15 years ago after the ethanol fuel would eat up the OE fuel pump diaphragms in a few months. Also the fuel pump cam lobes are subject to wear to the point of low pump output at cranking speed.
Additionally I have replaced the OE 4-ga Battery Cables with 0-gage copper wire and copper lugs. It starts happily year round.
-Dick

Sounds like I should probably swap out the old fuel pump while I'm replacing the other fuel parts. What was the electric pump you went with? I know you mentioned 15years ago but maybe there is something available online?

 

[cdmccul]

Sounds like I should probably swap out the old fuel pump while I'm replacing the other fuel parts. What was the electric pump you went with? I know you mentioned 15years ago but maybe there is something available online?

I used:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision-fuel-pumps/precision-26-gph-fuel-pump/pfp0/e16010

But I don't have many hours on it. I would suggest a frame mounted one... I'll have to see if I can find the one I most recently found. It is all gold anodized, top mounted input and output, and comes with a nice big bracket. I have the feeling one issue with the one I have installed is that they are being mounted on top of the intake. Too much heat and vibration maybe.