Bobcat 732 gas Not starting after ran out of gas.

[K20SwappedCat]

So Recently i got my grandfathers old bobcat 732 going. I put a new ignition kit in, new points, new distributor cap, cleaned carb ,everything was set started and ran fine didn't like low throttle but happily ran at full throttle. I Was clearing some woods when the machine shut off, wouldn't fire off. So i got some gas put it in, it wouldn't start unless i was fully pulling the choke out and holding it even then it ran weird. Then next day comes i pulled the carb cleaned it, pulled the fuel filter cleaned it and it still doesn't start. It wants to and pops off as soon as i turn the key, Then dies immediately then i have to wait to crank for like 6 seconds before it even thinks about firing. fuel is coming out of the fuel pump, I fixed a ground that was off, I also fixed the leaking pressure sensor on the portblock. Any ideas on this? Im baffled of whats going on, It's probably something simple im not seeing.

 

[craigb93]

*-You did not mention whether or not you replaced the ignition condenser. They can fail, often right after you fiddle w/ the points. *-Check that the point gap is correct @ 0.020".
*- Check the vacuum advance diaphragm. If you don't have a vacuum pump just twist the rotor to pull the diaphragm to full advance then put your finger over the end of the diaphragm nipple and let go of the rotor. It should hold vacuum until you remove your finger, then pop back.
*- Clean the battery cables with a tool that scrapes the parts bright clean. Cranking amperage is high on these machines so you want all the available battery voltage to get delivered. (Replaced mine w/ #2-gage cables.)
*- Hard to tell from your description whether you have a bad distributor diaphragm or you have picked up sediment from the fuel tank and have carburetor issues.
*-Read my post about replacing the fuel tank pick up on my machine. They are made of mild steel and rust aggravated by ethanol fuel creates considerable sediment that stops at the small carburetor orifices. One of these will get you going.
[ *- =paragraph] -Dick

 

[LazyKG]

*-You did not mention whether or not you replaced the ignition condenser. They can fail, often right after you fiddle w/ the points. *-Check that the point gap is correct @ 0.020".
*- Check the vacuum advance diaphragm. If you don't have a vacuum pump just twist the rotor to pull the diaphragm to full advance then put your finger over the end of the diaphragm nipple and let go of the rotor. It should hold vacuum until you remove your finger, then pop back.
*- Clean the battery cables with a tool that scrapes the parts bright clean. Cranking amperage is high on these machines so you want all the available battery voltage to get delivered. (Replaced mine w/ #2-gage cables.)
*- Hard to tell from your description whether you have a bad distributor diaphragm or you have picked up sediment from the fuel tank and have carburetor issues.
*-Read my post about replacing the fuel tank pick up on my machine. They are made of mild steel and rust aggravated by ethanol fuel creates considerable sediment that stops at the small carburetor orifices. One of these will get you going.
[ *- =paragraph] -Dick

I didn't see a conclusion to this and this sounds exactly like the trouble I had (and still do every now and then) with my 732. The fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb can get gunked up and fail to either open or close; stuck open and the thing floods like the Minnesota River in the springtime, stuck closed and you get no gas, mostly closed and you get your symptoms: wants to start but does not stay running and you have to wait for enough gas to seep into the carb to fire again.
Removing and disassembling the carb then spraying carb cleaning down the jet into the bowl until you get a solid stream. This has to be done while the solenoid is in the open position by applying 12v to it. When I have to do this, I take the carb apart leaving just the solenoid wire attached (be careful, it does not take too much pulling on this wire to rip it out of the solenoid!), turn the key to run, then hold the carb base to the frame and use the spray cleaner. It's a pain but I'm getting pretty good at it (dammit!).
I did have to replace this solenoid shortly after I first got the machine as it would, more often than no, fail to open and have this same no-fuel issue and this part is not cheap, about $250 from Bobcat last time I checked.