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Bobcat 630 Reclamation
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<blockquote data-quote="peebeeaitch" data-source="post: 71099" data-attributes="member: 8318"><p><u>19 December 2013</u></p><p>I have written in a different thread of my first real work with the little machine and the pain that ensued - <a href="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=70795" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><p>Thanks to all on this list that helped out, the machine survived past Christmas. For completeness of the photographic record I am including some shots I took of the repair attempt before I got the little thing going again.</p><p>Here is the (semi) stripped carb. Note that the float hinge pin is knurled for a short distance that, when assembled, "interferes" with one of the aluminium webs that form the top body of the carb. Removal of the pin is as simple as pressing a screwdriver on the side of the pin (perpendicular to the pin axis) and gently forcing the pin out.</p><p>Note to self: when re-assembling, remember that the needle valve needs to go in before the float, else you can't get it in.</p><p>Another note: it is easier to keep the knurled section of the pin away from the direction of insertion otherwise the knurl needs to pass through both webs.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_01.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Here is a photo of the two little balls that so almost caused a BIG bonfire:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_02.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Here is a shot of the reinstallation of the detent cap. I screwed in the lower (diagonal bottom right) ball retaining bolt with the spring and ball (held in place with snotty grease) just far enough for about 1/2 a thread of engagement. To prevent the bolt from loosening, and the ball and spring bouncing off into some crevice never to be seen again, I applied two Sponge Bob Square Pants plasters to keep the bolt head locked from rotating. You can use any plasters, Sponge Bob Square Pants plasters are not required.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_03.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Once the cap was installed again, I dropped the other ball in the top left hole, and installed and tightened the bolt. Before I removed the plaster, I mentally rehearsed and practiced the rotation direction to tighten the other bolt.</p><p>To tighten the bolts holding the cap in place required me to use every single extention I own to get the reach past the engine. Please note: if you have ever stood on top of a ladder, trying to use a tape measure, hoping beyond hope that the reverse bend in the tape will prevent the steel from kinking till you get to the point you wish to measure, you have some idea of how difficult this can be. This is like a three dimensional tape measure story with the added complication that the screw bit must engage the screw. Maddening.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebeeaitch, post: 71099, member: 8318"] [U]19 December 2013[/U] I have written in a different thread of my first real work with the little machine and the pain that ensued - [URL='https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=70795']here[/URL]. Thanks to all on this list that helped out, the machine survived past Christmas. For completeness of the photographic record I am including some shots I took of the repair attempt before I got the little thing going again. Here is the (semi) stripped carb. Note that the float hinge pin is knurled for a short distance that, when assembled, “interferes” with one of the aluminium webs that form the top body of the carb. Removal of the pin is as simple as pressing a screwdriver on the side of the pin (perpendicular to the pin axis) and gently forcing the pin out. Note to self: when re-assembling, remember that the needle valve needs to go in before the float, else you can't get it in. Another note: it is easier to keep the knurled section of the pin away from the direction of insertion otherwise the knurl needs to pass through both webs. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_01.jpg[/IMG] Here is a photo of the two little balls that so almost caused a BIG bonfire: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_02.jpg[/IMG] Here is a shot of the reinstallation of the detent cap. I screwed in the lower (diagonal bottom right) ball retaining bolt with the spring and ball (held in place with snotty grease) just far enough for about 1/2 a thread of engagement. To prevent the bolt from loosening, and the ball and spring bouncing off into some crevice never to be seen again, I applied two Sponge Bob Square Pants plasters to keep the bolt head locked from rotating. You can use any plasters, Sponge Bob Square Pants plasters are not required. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-12-19_03.jpg[/IMG] Once the cap was installed again, I dropped the other ball in the top left hole, and installed and tightened the bolt. Before I removed the plaster, I mentally rehearsed and practiced the rotation direction to tighten the other bolt. To tighten the bolts holding the cap in place required me to use every single extention I own to get the reach past the engine. Please note: if you have ever stood on top of a ladder, trying to use a tape measure, hoping beyond hope that the reverse bend in the tape will prevent the steel from kinking till you get to the point you wish to measure, you have some idea of how difficult this can be. This is like a three dimensional tape measure story with the added complication that the screw bit must engage the screw. Maddening. [/QUOTE]
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