Bobcat 610 Wisconsin Engine Distributor Drive Gear

[bfarroo]

I have a 610 with the Wisconsin engine that quit running this weekend. The engine has no spark and the distributor does not turn at times when cranking. I can rotate the engine by hand and hold the hydraulic pump coupling from spinning. From my research it looks like there is an issue with the gear that drives the distributor. From the diagrams I've found it looks to be an intermediate gear of some sort between the crank gear and distributor drive gear that has a possibility of coming loose. I looked into the timing inspection hole and don't see any damage to speak of to the distributor gear. I figure the engine is going to have to come out to inspect it further. Is there anything else I should be looking for? I will plan on fixing that issue and then firing the motor on a stand to verify before putting it back in the bobcat. I'd also like to check the health of the motor while it out assuming there isn't any catostrophic damage. I'd probably check compression / leakdown and go from there. Are there any typical problem areas that should be addressed while the motor is out? I know it looks like the engine is leaking at the exhaust manifold so that will need to be milled and cleaned up. Are parts readily available and reasonably priced for this motor? Any guesses what a standard rebuild would run off hand? I know that's a pretty open ended question so just give me an idea if you've recently rebuilt one and what it all needed. Also can these be moved when not under power? It died next to my shed so I'd like to get it into the shed at some point in time to make it easier to work on. I'm hoping that I could shift the valve for the bucket and use a heavy duty ratchet strap to lift the bucket enough to move it. Is that possible? Thanks for your time. Benji Farr Green Bay WI

 

[mark18mwm]

I can't help with your engine problems but. A 610 is easy to move with out the engine running. the steering clutch design lets it "free wheel" if the steering levers are in neutral. I have had to tow mine a couple times. As for raising the bucket, I use a floor jack from under the quick attach or the bucket pin area, any place to get it under something. then raise it up, someone might need to step on the pedal to relieve hyd pressure, but I have never had move the pedal. I always block the bucket up so it can't settle later by putting a block between the frame and the quick atach. Again any place you can get the block in securely to keep the bucket off the ground. Pulling the engine is relatively easy but it is a tight fit. Make sure to pull off the inner 1/2 of the drive sheave, I tried to get by with out pulling it only to create more work for myself putting the engine back on the mounts to pull the sheave off. It simply wont fit out the back with the sheave on, it looks like it might but I had no luck trying it. With the engine out it's a great time to do any needed work inside the machine. I used the opportunity to replace the drive belt. It's a lot easier to do some things from the back with out the engine rather than going down under the seat. Good luck, hope you find a simple fix for the dist.

 

[Tigerhaze]

The Wisconsin VH4Ds used in the 610s were used in other applications so you can get parts for them outside of Bobcat. I know in my area (western MO) there are guys that advertise repair or rebuilding of them so that shouldn't be an issue either. I can't tell you costs for a rebuild and it likely depends on how much work you have them do, but if it gets too expensive there are new (non-Wisconsin) replacement engines for 610s for a couple (2-3) thousand.

 

[6brnorma]

The Wisconsin VH4Ds used in the 610s were used in other applications so you can get parts for them outside of Bobcat. I know in my area (western MO) there are guys that advertise repair or rebuilding of them so that shouldn't be an issue either. I can't tell you costs for a rebuild and it likely depends on how much work you have them do, but if it gets too expensive there are new (non-Wisconsin) replacement engines for 610s for a couple (2-3) thousand.

You can remove the distributor drive assembly and inspect the gears inside of it before removing the engine. You would be able to inspect the "idler" gear by feeling the teeth on it also….anything past that would require pulling the engine. As Tiger suggested you can find used parts but proceed with caution……because of the design (hydro pump through dist) it requires 'hardened' gears all the way from the crank (including idler gear). The idler gear in a 600 series Wisconsin engine rides on two taper roller bearings NOT the standard bushing type. I have seen a brand new rebuild done with the wrong 'idler' gear…….it didn't last long.