Bobcat 610 ring gear replacement

Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

Help Support Skidsteer:

dadsbobcat

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
18
The ring gear on my Bobcat 610 is going to eventually need to be replaced. I am assuming this requires the engine to be removed? Anyone who has done this please give me some advice on what i'm up against.... How many hours would one estimate it would take the Bobcat dealer to replace the ring gear?
 
Yup, engine has to come out. Pull the belt off and pull the variable speed sheave off. trust me it wont come out with the sheave on, don't ask me how I know. Make sure to mark or find the two alignment marks on the two sheave half's so you can put it back together right, it ia a balanced assembly. aside from that pulling the engine is pretty easy and straight forward. But it is heavier than it looks so be prepared some how so you don't drop it. If you pull the back door off you might be able to put a cart of some sort at the same height as the engine to slide it on to. Then just pull the cooling tin off and there is the flywheel. pull the nut, and hit the crankshaft with a hammer and the flywheel should pop off. just be sure not to damage the end of the crank, a bar centered in the crank works as does a brass hammer. To remove the ring gear I use a air chisel, one or two little bursts on the gear it falls right off. Some guys heat the new ring gear,some guys press the ring gear and others just pound the new one on. I use the heat method, works good for me. It isn't as big of project as it seems, but pulling the sheave off the crank can be a bear, it's a tapered shaft and they get real tight. Also a good time to replace your belt if it looks like it might need replacing. There are guys on here that can give verry detailed instruction on pulling the sheave, any one else want ti chime in?
 
Yup, engine has to come out. Pull the belt off and pull the variable speed sheave off. trust me it wont come out with the sheave on, don't ask me how I know. Make sure to mark or find the two alignment marks on the two sheave half's so you can put it back together right, it ia a balanced assembly. aside from that pulling the engine is pretty easy and straight forward. But it is heavier than it looks so be prepared some how so you don't drop it. If you pull the back door off you might be able to put a cart of some sort at the same height as the engine to slide it on to. Then just pull the cooling tin off and there is the flywheel. pull the nut, and hit the crankshaft with a hammer and the flywheel should pop off. just be sure not to damage the end of the crank, a bar centered in the crank works as does a brass hammer. To remove the ring gear I use a air chisel, one or two little bursts on the gear it falls right off. Some guys heat the new ring gear,some guys press the ring gear and others just pound the new one on. I use the heat method, works good for me. It isn't as big of project as it seems, but pulling the sheave off the crank can be a bear, it's a tapered shaft and they get real tight. Also a good time to replace your belt if it looks like it might need replacing. There are guys on here that can give verry detailed instruction on pulling the sheave, any one else want ti chime in?
I have an old manual that lists shop time to R & R the Wisconsin engine at 3.5 hours. I've done many of them and never hit that time…..I suppose if I really got after it and stuck to it I might come close. Use either a brass hammer or brass stock against the crank when you hit it to avoid deforming the end…..also heat the fly wheel around the crank prior to hitting it with the hammer. Use the heat method on the ring gear (lots of it) and it will come right off. You shouldn't need a new one if the opposite side is in good condition……just flip it over and use the good side.
 
I have an old manual that lists shop time to R & R the Wisconsin engine at 3.5 hours. I've done many of them and never hit that time…..I suppose if I really got after it and stuck to it I might come close. Use either a brass hammer or brass stock against the crank when you hit it to avoid deforming the end…..also heat the fly wheel around the crank prior to hitting it with the hammer. Use the heat method on the ring gear (lots of it) and it will come right off. You shouldn't need a new one if the opposite side is in good condition……just flip it over and use the good side.
I reread my post and want to be clear…….do not hit the "flywheel" itself with anything other then a rubber mallet. Hit only the end of the crank with the brass hammer…..hitting the flywheel with a steel or brass hammer may result in broken fins.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top