bobcat 610 driven clutch issue

[Yzracer239]

as a follow up to the reply I received from my earlier post with the same subject title. Ill start off by saying I purchased the official bobcat manual, im just waiting to receive it. I already have the new pillow block bearing which I got off ebay for $39.00. After reading my reply I now understand what I need is the driven sheave not clutch. With the research ive done it seems buying a whole new unit is what I need to do. Does that include the half shaft it rides on? I noticed one of the 3 nuts on the sheave was missing when I bought it. Dont know if that was the cause of result of the original pillow block bearing issue? The seller told me he already replaced the friction clutches and the RH side pillow block bearing seems ok for now from what I can tell. I paid $1450 for the machine with forks which I feel is fair but wanna get the clutch on and do some work before having to replace everything. You mentioned roll pins and o rings before, does that apply to the sheave still or the clutch, because im unsure where any of that goes at this time

 

[6brnorma]

You did very well with the initial investment……I was afraid you may have spent 5K plus on the machine….you've got room to work. It has been a while since I've purchased the entire 'driven sheave' assembly, but as I recall it came with the half shaft and completely loaded…..seals, bushings, roll pins….everything…however the parts book does not show it that way so check with the dealer. While you are this deep in the machine…..I would recommend a new hydro filter (NAPA pt#1567) as it is hard to get to otherwise and make sure your alt. and main drive belts are in good shape. It's great to hear that the previous owner says he "just" replaced the clutch linings, but, personally…..I'd want to see that for myself since you will be there anyway. Make sure your bearing pivots freely inside the 'pillow block' housing when it is mounted. Just respond to this thread rather then starting a new one each time.

 

[Yzracer239]

You did very well with the initial investment……I was afraid you may have spent 5K plus on the machine….you've got room to work. It has been a while since I've purchased the entire 'driven sheave' assembly, but as I recall it came with the half shaft and completely loaded…..seals, bushings, roll pins….everything…however the parts book does not show it that way so check with the dealer. While you are this deep in the machine…..I would recommend a new hydro filter (NAPA pt#1567) as it is hard to get to otherwise and make sure your alt. and main drive belts are in good shape. It's great to hear that the previous owner says he "just" replaced the clutch linings, but, personally…..I'd want to see that for myself since you will be there anyway. Make sure your bearing pivots freely inside the 'pillow block' housing when it is mounted. Just respond to this thread rather then starting a new one each time.

what purpose does the pillow block bearing need to pivot? So you can slide the sheave shaft into place? Also I the wheels on the machine now are hay wagon wheels, with ratty 235/70-15 truck tires. They are very close to the sides of the machine. Im going to be buying, for $200 a very good shape set of used bobcat tires which are 10" wide for 16.5" rims. This machine is 6 lug which ive found to be the less common set up. I can get a 6 lug set of rims for those tires on ebay, im hoping the offset of these rims will compensate for the 2" wider tires to clear the frame?

 

[6brnorma]

what purpose does the pillow block bearing need to pivot? So you can slide the sheave shaft into place? Also I the wheels on the machine now are hay wagon wheels, with ratty 235/70-15 truck tires. They are very close to the sides of the machine. Im going to be buying, for $200 a very good shape set of used bobcat tires which are 10" wide for 16.5" rims. This machine is 6 lug which ive found to be the less common set up. I can get a 6 lug set of rims for those tires on ebay, im hoping the offset of these rims will compensate for the 2" wider tires to clear the frame?

My understanding is the pivot is necessary to allow for the slight vibration of the shaft due to its length and the variation caused by the belt when placed in "high" versus "low". It has been my experience that I lose bearings and have even had a shaft completely break when the bearing is seized in the housing. As far as the tires/rims………I once bought a set of "implement" wheels to use with the 10" floatation tires. While they are offset wheels it was not enough so I spaced them away from the machine with heavy washers on each stud………certainly not recommended but I ran them for years that way. I use only "Bobcat" wheels now…….they are pricey however.

 

[buckshot]

My understanding is the pivot is necessary to allow for the slight vibration of the shaft due to its length and the variation caused by the belt when placed in "high" versus "low". It has been my experience that I lose bearings and have even had a shaft completely break when the bearing is seized in the housing. As far as the tires/rims………I once bought a set of "implement" wheels to use with the 10" floatation tires. While they are offset wheels it was not enough so I spaced them away from the machine with heavy washers on each stud………certainly not recommended but I ran them for years that way. I use only "Bobcat" wheels now…….they are pricey however.

Some years ago when I bought my 610 it had the old skinny tires and wheels on it. I had a bunch of old Chevy 16.5 tubeless wheels. I removed the centers of the Chevy wheels. I then took some 1/4 flat sheet steel and laid out a set of centers to replace those in the Chevy wheels. I took the bolt pattern to a machinist friend of mine, he found center and he laid out and drilled the bolt patterns. I then, very carefully, spaced and welded in the new centers leaving enough back spacing to let me remove the side covers without having to take off the wheels and tires. I have NEVER had a problem with them. Also after making the wheels I bought new skid steer 16.5 tries and took them to a tire shop and had them mounted and foam filled. Although they are VERY heavy I NEVER had another flat tire. If you wear the tires out you can cut out and remove the old foam filling and put it in the new tires using less foam filling therefor costing lest to fill the replacements. I hope this helps you out. Have fun, buckshot

 

[Yzracer239]

Some years ago when I bought my 610 it had the old skinny tires and wheels on it. I had a bunch of old Chevy 16.5 tubeless wheels. I removed the centers of the Chevy wheels. I then took some 1/4 flat sheet steel and laid out a set of centers to replace those in the Chevy wheels. I took the bolt pattern to a machinist friend of mine, he found center and he laid out and drilled the bolt patterns. I then, very carefully, spaced and welded in the new centers leaving enough back spacing to let me remove the side covers without having to take off the wheels and tires. I have NEVER had a problem with them. Also after making the wheels I bought new skid steer 16.5 tries and took them to a tire shop and had them mounted and foam filled. Although they are VERY heavy I NEVER had another flat tire. If you wear the tires out you can cut out and remove the old foam filling and put it in the new tires using less foam filling therefor costing lest to fill the replacements. I hope this helps you out. Have fun, buckshot

to the person who wrote about having his own rim centers made...for my 610 I just purchased on ebay new skid steer wheels for $364. Theyre 16.5 x 8.25 with 4 3/8 offset. I thought I measure correctly but I guess not. i want to run the 10" bobcat tires I bought but when I put the bare rim alone on the hub it sits right on the side of the machine, let alone room for the wider tire, and clearance from the machine on top of that. Im not sure where to go. I hate to do it but considering cutting the centers and rewelding them with more offset for the clearance I need. Im a bit nervous though. Right now the centers are just about center. Im going to have to mover them quite a bit but concerned about the strength though they are pretty sturdy rims. Were your homemade wheels a very deep dish wheel?