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Bad Hydraulic Leak in 2003 John Deere 250 Series II Skidsteer
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<blockquote data-quote="N4HMRHAM" data-source="post: 89183" data-attributes="member: 7482"><p>Tazza - A real delay on fixing this problem. On 09/18 I had a field tech look at the unit, and he found the problem immediately. Helps to know what you're doing. The metal line to the LH brake had rusted out. This was the one on the bottom so it was sitting in mud, etc. Apparently the hole was right in front of the drain hole so the majority of oil was squirting through that hole - which is what I saw. It was replaced with a rubber line so that shouldn't happen again. Finally got the unit where I could clean it up. Two issues now: 1) When removing the rear pan, the two front plates under the pedals and the center console, I had a number of U-nuts (spacer nuts?) wring off due to being rusted out. Had to ziz the bolt heads off. Does anybody know of a good source for these U nuts - for a reasonable price? 2) Had to replace the fan belt. The previous owner had put a NAPA belt on there which was not as wide as the JD belt; it was way down in the pulleys & worn out - no more adjustment left. Got a new JD belt (P/N R97939) and mounted it. I was disturbed by the length of that new belt as about 75% of the slot was gone before the Dang belt got tight! And the way the alternator top side brace is formed it blocks more than an inch of the end of the slot - the bolt head will contact the brace and you can't tighten the belt any more! If I run out of adjustment on this belt and it is still good, I'm going to reform the end of the Dang brace and put a spacer between the brace and the alternator ear. That will allow some clearance for the bolt head. Has anybody else run into this problem? Fred</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="N4HMRHAM, post: 89183, member: 7482"] Tazza - A real delay on fixing this problem. On 09/18 I had a field tech look at the unit, and he found the problem immediately. Helps to know what you're doing. The metal line to the LH brake had rusted out. This was the one on the bottom so it was sitting in mud, etc. Apparently the hole was right in front of the drain hole so the majority of oil was squirting through that hole - which is what I saw. It was replaced with a rubber line so that shouldn't happen again. Finally got the unit where I could clean it up. Two issues now: 1) When removing the rear pan, the two front plates under the pedals and the center console, I had a number of U-nuts (spacer nuts?) wring off due to being rusted out. Had to ziz the bolt heads off. Does anybody know of a good source for these U nuts - for a reasonable price? 2) Had to replace the fan belt. The previous owner had put a NAPA belt on there which was not as wide as the JD belt; it was way down in the pulleys & worn out - no more adjustment left. Got a new JD belt (P/N R97939) and mounted it. I was disturbed by the length of that new belt as about 75% of the slot was gone before the Dang belt got tight! And the way the alternator top side brace is formed it blocks more than an inch of the end of the slot - the bolt head will contact the brace and you can't tighten the belt any more! If I run out of adjustment on this belt and it is still good, I'm going to reform the end of the Dang brace and put a spacer between the brace and the alternator ear. That will allow some clearance for the bolt head. Has anybody else run into this problem? Fred [/QUOTE]
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Bad Hydraulic Leak in 2003 John Deere 250 Series II Skidsteer
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