ASV RC50 hydraulics arms not working, solenoid, valve, bleeding?

[mrpriceisright]

Have an early model rc50 (sn 12xx) with a cat 3024c engine which is having difficulty with the arm hydraulics after I think the fluid level was low. When the cab safety operator arm rail is lowered, there is now a large clack sound from the rear or engine compartment area and the engine labors hard (will in fact stall if idling). Drive motion is not affected but all arm functions, raise, tilt are. The arm or tilt functions will operate for a second or two then movement stops, the engine stops laboring but arm functions no longer operate - until the operator safety armrest is raised and lowered. I thought I read a post discussing hydraulic bleed procedures and was looking for some info on that or any pointers to what to check. Because it seems to shut down the hydraulics and stops laboring I also wonder if there is a solenoid or pressure relief valve involved. Hydraulics have been working fine up to this point and I dont think the level was that low (do not have any hydraulic leaks and did not have to add maybe 1 or 2 qts). thanks

 

[walio123]

it sounds like having a problem with the aux hydraulics stuck on position "on" /engaged/. The hydraulic system starts working through a safety valve when you lower armrest.. Check for a stuck swich or relay in aux hydraulic circuit. . Remove the aux hydraulic solenoid connector, the problem may disappear.

 

[mrpriceisright]

it sounds like having a problem with the aux hydraulics stuck on position "on" /engaged/. The hydraulic system starts working through a safety valve when you lower armrest.. Check for a stuck swich or relay in aux hydraulic circuit. . Remove the aux hydraulic solenoid connector, the problem may disappear.

Good input. Will check that at first opportunity. I was starting to think about that possibility, had removed the instrument bar to fix a problem with glow plug function - thought I might have turned on the continuous flow switch by accident. I had also just replaced the main fuel hose. Anyway, I tried switching the continuous flow to each position - Now I have no ignition on power /glow plug or crank at all, in any position! I am looking through the wiring diagram now. BTW, is the continuous flow switch in the off position when pressed in the top or the middle? (its a 3 position switch and the manual doesn't say which is which).

 

[walio123]

Good input. Will check that at first opportunity. I was starting to think about that possibility, had removed the instrument bar to fix a problem with glow plug function - thought I might have turned on the continuous flow switch by accident. I had also just replaced the main fuel hose. Anyway, I tried switching the continuous flow to each position - Now I have no ignition on power /glow plug or crank at all, in any position! I am looking through the wiring diagram now. BTW, is the continuous flow switch in the off position when pressed in the top or the middle? (its a 3 position switch and the manual doesn't say which is which).

Check with the tester the aux hydraulic switch. You will see in which position the circuit breaks down. You should also check both the A and B main power relays and fuses, batery conections and batery. If the switch or relays are stuck in the ON position, will not have power and the starter will not rotate, there will be no current on glow plugs.Is it there possible to exchange wires on the ignition switch? is it possible to exchange the connectors for the light switch and the Aux hydraulics switch?

 

[mrpriceisright]

Check with the tester the aux hydraulic switch. You will see in which position the circuit breaks down. You should also check both the A and B main power relays and fuses, batery conections and batery. If the switch or relays are stuck in the ON position, will not have power and the starter will not rotate, there will be no current on glow plugs.Is it there possible to exchange wires on the ignition switch? is it possible to exchange the connectors for the light switch and the Aux hydraulics switch?

Good news. The continuous flow sw is apparently off in the center position (and has a locking tab). I checked the battery (12.4 volts). I found a lot of moisture and dirt in the fuse box, the lid is not anywhere near a tight fit and we've had a foot of rain in the last few weeks. I found the ignition 10a fuse about 99% corroded through, so that when I pulled it out one leg stayed in the socket. the large 60a power fuse was also mostly corroded through. I replaced those and pulled all the relays and cleaned their contacts (and all the maxi fuses). ignition came on, glow plugs ok and started right up - no big clunk with the safety bar, hydraulics all normal. Still not idling normally when warm so I think I will replace the fuel pump. I did read the manual on hydraulic oil change and didn't see any mention of bleeding. Quite relieved that the hydraulics are working now. When things are drier I may pull all the fuses and spray some switch cleaner on the sockets.

 

[Middy]

Hi guys, rather than make a new post, I have the same machine.

No hydraulics (forward/reverse/boom)
Since some sticks got stuck underneath (previous owner removed bash plates).

Connectors are damaged, but not broken.
Cables still in tact.

I disconnected the three connections on the solenoids on the main hydraulic control valve.
Cleaned and sprayed with inox.

Nothing works.

Wondering if the parts or part numbers are available.

4 in 1 stopped working awhile back when I connected a bar light off the top light connection. Maybe just coincidence.

Any help is appreciated, thankyou.

 

[Middy]

Looks like it's duech connectors or wiring harness.
Thanks for the replies guys

 

[rarepartbuilder]

Good news. The continuous flow sw is apparently off in the center position (and has a locking tab). I checked the battery (12.4 volts). I found a lot of moisture and dirt in the fuse box, the lid is not anywhere near a tight fit and we've had a foot of rain in the last few weeks. I found the ignition 10a fuse about 99% corroded through, so that when I pulled it out one leg stayed in the socket. the large 60a power fuse was also mostly corroded through. I replaced those and pulled all the relays and cleaned their contacts (and all the maxi fuses). ignition came on, glow plugs ok and started right up - no big clunk with the safety bar, hydraulics all normal. Still not idling normally when warm so I think I will replace the fuel pump. I did read the manual on hydraulic oil change and didn't see any mention of bleeding. Quite relieved that the hydraulics are working now. When things are drier I may pull all the fuses and spray some switch cleaner on the sockets.

There is a you tube poster that does a comparison between a couple of ASV {PT60 and RT60 }machines... At one point he show cases a plastic grocery bag installed around the fuse /electrical block as ten cent protection against corrosion.. . link is here with the bag shown/discussed at the 16:42 mark: