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Message: <blockquote data-quote="mdstihl" data-source="post: 114474" data-attributes="member: 19759"><p>I know this is an old thread, but it was extremely helpful to me. I thought I would post how I handled that hose too, just in case another poor soul like myself happens along <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I removed all the hoses to both drive motors and replaced them with new ones on reassembly. This was the 3rd time I was fixing a leak, and figured it was the right time to make everything new. I did this project with engine in place. To remove the hose, I unbolted the block from the frame as other guys stated, and prized it up a bit. Then I reached down with my Dremel with cutoff wheel, and cut the hose off as close to the fitting as possible. I then snaked in a 1" deep well socket with extensions and cracked it loose; that baby was tight. I don't think I could have broken it loose with the crowsfoot. I didn't find it helped to remove the metal lines, so didn't. I did however loosen the bottom fitting and slid it back on the line, thinking it would give me just a bit more clearance for the crowsfoot wrench for installation. When I installed the new hose, I wrapped elec. tape tightly around the junction between the swivel nut and the hose, to keep the the nut from turning. That way I could turn the hose to get the nut started, and then tightened it as much as possible that way too. Then took a razor knife and cut off the tape. Getting it tight was Something.Else. I was able to get a bite going down from the top behind those metal lines, and then another bite with the crowsfoot from underneath, and then was flummoxed. It was soso close to being able to get another bite, but not quite. Finally I cut the end off a cheap 1" box wrench, then cut out a piece of the boxend to make a "flare wrench", and was then able to slide that over the nut. The 3" inch stub left stuck out just enough underneath the bottom metal line to take a 2' piece of pipe and set on it, and then whack it with a hammer, using the pipe as a long punch. Amazingly, the box end didn't spread any. I think it's because it was a cheaper wrench with more metal? After 2 more bites with that, it felt as though it was as tight as it should be. Other notes... I had to dremel off the clamps holding the metal part of the drive motor hoses to the back of the "firewall" as I couldn't get a socket onto the nut. When installing the new lines and clamps, I had to use a longer bolt to squeeze the clamps together, and then put in the proper shorter bolt for final lockdown. If you have a Colliflower Hydraulics shop within driving distance, they have any fitting you could possible need, in case you're a dummy like me and cross the threads on pretty much the easiest fitting to get to on the drive motor. haha It was late and I was tired, what can I say? If I had to do this again (God forbid) it would go much faster, since half my time was spent figuring out how to do this or that. Again, this thread was quite helpful and kept me from making expensive mistakes, I'm sure! Also to any new owners, the parts book is worth it's weight in gold, to me.</p></blockquote><p></p>

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