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<blockquote data-quote="Earthwerks Unlimited" data-source="post: 19629" data-attributes="member: 1300"><p>Sounds like you should have had the machine checked out first before trading it. Soemone was wise enough to leave the SERVICE switch in that position to get rid of it (think of it in this case as LIMP-HOME switch) I have a NH CUT a TC33D and an LS185.b. skid steer NH are notorious for electrical problems--especially the CUT. For the skid steer, without being there to look at everything--first you can't "hear" or "feel" the seat switches---they mount from the bottom and sometimes back of the seat. Some machines have 1, some 2. I have a suspended seat which means it goes up and down. Since it goes up and down the wires going to the seat swicth in the front broke off. I rerouted the wires to the switch (I have only one switch) and connected it to a hidden toggle swicth which acts as a theft deterrent. If you do this, don't leave it in the ON or RUN position as this will alllow someone else to steal it AND it runs down the battery by powering up the instrument panel. Also, the seat belts in these machines are not designed to be used in this type of equipment---I know this because mine was replaced under warranty and the box it came in was a generic seat belt that had instructions for installation in bus or UPS-type truck---not a machine thats sees water and dust and debris. First you have to determine if the seat belt latch swicth is good which is a microswitch in the portion of the seat belt that stcick up along the right side of the seat. What I did is cut off the webbing of the buckle from a new seat belt assembly I got from warranty (I told them I would install it myself but didn't) and made it a sort of "key" (I still have the old belt installed if I need it). Depending on what position I left the toggle switch ON, and go to start it all I do is unlatch the cut off buckle and reinstall it, then start it. Also another thing to look for is the lock-out solenoid(s?) which is/are located in the control valve loacted ahead of the seat on the floor (remove the cover plate to get to it). The solenoid HAS to have power to it to allow you to move the control(s). Removing it is easy--unscrews. It has a small metal plunger that retracts into the solenoid body. If this is not there, replace it and also look for the broken piece in the spot from where it came. Also, I had a similar electrical problem on my then-brand new LS185.b--turned out to be a $15 diode that looked like a two-wire trailer hitch connector located in the main fuse box. The dealer took a week to find it since no one had trained them on this new series of machines. I keep a spare zip-tied to the old one with orange paint on it to find it easier. ALSO--it goes without saying but I'll say it anyway--check all the fuses---even replace them with new in case the contacts are corroded. I have an enclosed cab and they still get corroded--might be two fuse boxes like mine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Earthwerks Unlimited, post: 19629, member: 1300"] Sounds like you should have had the machine checked out first before trading it. Soemone was wise enough to leave the SERVICE switch in that position to get rid of it (think of it in this case as LIMP-HOME switch) I have a NH CUT a TC33D and an LS185.b. skid steer NH are notorious for electrical problems--especially the CUT. For the skid steer, without being there to look at everything--first you can't “hear” or “feel” the seat switches---they mount from the bottom and sometimes back of the seat. Some machines have 1, some 2. I have a suspended seat which means it goes up and down. Since it goes up and down the wires going to the seat swicth in the front broke off. I rerouted the wires to the switch (I have only one switch) and connected it to a hidden toggle swicth which acts as a theft deterrent. If you do this, don't leave it in the ON or RUN position as this will alllow someone else to steal it AND it runs down the battery by powering up the instrument panel. Also, the seat belts in these machines are not designed to be used in this type of equipment---I know this because mine was replaced under warranty and the box it came in was a generic seat belt that had instructions for installation in bus or UPS-type truck---not a machine thats sees water and dust and debris. First you have to determine if the seat belt latch swicth is good which is a microswitch in the portion of the seat belt that stcick up along the right side of the seat. What I did is cut off the webbing of the buckle from a new seat belt assembly I got from warranty (I told them I would install it myself but didn't) and made it a sort of “key” (I still have the old belt installed if I need it). Depending on what position I left the toggle switch ON, and go to start it all I do is unlatch the cut off buckle and reinstall it, then start it. Also another thing to look for is the lock-out solenoid(s?) which is/are located in the control valve loacted ahead of the seat on the floor (remove the cover plate to get to it). The solenoid HAS to have power to it to allow you to move the control(s). Removing it is easy--unscrews. It has a small metal plunger that retracts into the solenoid body. If this is not there, replace it and also look for the broken piece in the spot from where it came. Also, I had a similar electrical problem on my then-brand new LS185.b--turned out to be a $15 diode that looked like a two-wire trailer hitch connector located in the main fuse box. The dealer took a week to find it since no one had trained them on this new series of machines. I keep a spare zip-tied to the old one with orange paint on it to find it easier. ALSO--it goes without saying but I'll say it anyway--check all the fuses---even replace them with new in case the contacts are corroded. I have an enclosed cab and they still get corroded--might be two fuse boxes like mine. [/QUOTE]
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