873G no voltage to fuel solenoid

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Joe41

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Joined
Sep 2, 2018
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Hello, My first time posting. I have a 873G. Cranks over but no start, removed fuel shut off solenoid and it starts. Bench tested solenoid and it works fine. 30A fuse is good and the relay is good. No codes or idiot lights. Tested the + side of the wire going to the solenoid and has no voltage when the key is turned on. I don't know what to check next. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Joe
 
Can you test for the voltage back to the relay terminals at the fuse block? the connections can corrode causing issues. Being a G series, the computer does control the solenoid.
Do you have any error codes on the panel? You should be able to press and hold your light button and it should flash codes if you have any.
 
Can you test for the voltage back to the relay terminals at the fuse block? the connections can corrode causing issues. Being a G series, the computer does control the solenoid.
Do you have any error codes on the panel? You should be able to press and hold your light button and it should flash codes if you have any.
Checked for codes, no codes or error lights. I have the cab up to check for rubbed wires. I tried to see if I could get to the back of the fuse/relay panel, but it's pretty buried down in there. I have tested the fuse and there is power at the fuse, but how would I test the relay terminals? Speaking of the computer, do you know where it is located on mine? Thank you for responding.
 
Checked for codes, no codes or error lights. I have the cab up to check for rubbed wires. I tried to see if I could get to the back of the fuse/relay panel, but it's pretty buried down in there. I have tested the fuse and there is power at the fuse, but how would I test the relay terminals? Speaking of the computer, do you know where it is located on mine? Thank you for responding.
The terminals i was talking about were the ones that you can see when you remove the relay, the ones insde aren't so easy, i thought there were multiple relays in the fuse box, you can generally swap them around to see if the issue moves.
Some machines have the computer behind the cab, my S250 has it on the left side near your foot pedal behind a panel. I can't be sure where it is on yours, sorry.
Follow teh mass of wires, generally it will point you in the dight direction :)
 
The terminals i was talking about were the ones that you can see when you remove the relay, the ones insde aren't so easy, i thought there were multiple relays in the fuse box, you can generally swap them around to see if the issue moves.
Some machines have the computer behind the cab, my S250 has it on the left side near your foot pedal behind a panel. I can't be sure where it is on yours, sorry.
Follow teh mass of wires, generally it will point you in the dight direction :)
The relay is good, the first thing I did was swap the relays around to see if that was it. With the relay removed and the key on, I tested the socket side(fuse panel), #30 as labeled on the relay had power, which I believe is the incoming side.
 
The relay is good, the first thing I did was swap the relays around to see if that was it. With the relay removed and the key on, I tested the socket side(fuse panel), #30 as labeled on the relay had power, which I believe is the incoming side.
You may need to trace that wire back to the computer to see if it's still missing at the computer box.
There is nothing i can think of that will prevent it getting power for safety reasons, like it locking you out of the hydraulics or drive system.
 
You may need to trace that wire back to the computer to see if it's still missing at the computer box.
There is nothing i can think of that will prevent it getting power for safety reasons, like it locking you out of the hydraulics or drive system.
Ya, I've been trying to trace it back, but the covering on the wires makes it so hard. I really don't want to cut that open, I'll never get it wrapped back as good as the factory had it. Could the ignition switch have anything to do with it, maybe one of it's wires is not sending the correct signal??
 
Ya, I've been trying to trace it back, but the covering on the wires makes it so hard. I really don't want to cut that open, I'll never get it wrapped back as good as the factory had it. Could the ignition switch have anything to do with it, maybe one of it's wires is not sending the correct signal??
Joe, I have a service manual for the 873G. When I get home this evening I will see what I can find that would help you trace down the problem. I would check continuity of the wire while still inside the harness. We just need to figure out where each end is at. The controller is going to be on the left front if you are sitting in the seat.
 
Joe, I have a service manual for the 873G. When I get home this evening I will see what I can find that would help you trace down the problem. I would check continuity of the wire while still inside the harness. We just need to figure out where each end is at. The controller is going to be on the left front if you are sitting in the seat.
Thanks, I appreciate the help
 
Thanks, I appreciate the help
A bad switch is pissible....
When you turn the key, you do get lights and the gauges flick all the way to the right then go back? if so, that means you are getting switched power which i assume would give you the hold circuit.
Turning the key to start does crank the engine right?
 
A bad switch is pissible....
When you turn the key, you do get lights and the gauges flick all the way to the right then go back? if so, that means you are getting switched power which i assume would give you the hold circuit.
Turning the key to start does crank the engine right?
Yep, everything there seems right. Starts the engine just as normal
 
I feel really dumb, but I'm still not finding the control module. You said the left side, is it under the cab?
The Bobcat Controller is under the cab. It will be on the left side behind a panel. I think the panel has 4 bolts to remove to expose the controller.

Here are a few things to try. Also, if you update your email address on your profile there might be some info from the service manual that may help that I can scan and send. The manual lists all checks by error code. Can you check for error codes again and see if anything comes up? Make sure that you do not shutdown the power before checking for the code.

1. Have you checked the fuel pull fuse (F6) for voltage? Should be 12v. It should also be wire 1310 coming from battery.

2. When you pull the panel for the controller you will want to remove connector J3. The wires involved are numbered 8150, and 8110. 8100 goes back to the fuel shutoff solenoid from the relay. 8100 should be in connector 403 pin E. If you pull the un-switched power fuse (F4) you can should check continuity between J3, pin C2, wire 8110 with all other J3 pins. If you find continuity then you have a harness problem.

It's going to be tough if you don't have any codes.
 
The Bobcat Controller is under the cab. It will be on the left side behind a panel. I think the panel has 4 bolts to remove to expose the controller.

Here are a few things to try. Also, if you update your email address on your profile there might be some info from the service manual that may help that I can scan and send. The manual lists all checks by error code. Can you check for error codes again and see if anything comes up? Make sure that you do not shutdown the power before checking for the code.

1. Have you checked the fuel pull fuse (F6) for voltage? Should be 12v. It should also be wire 1310 coming from battery.

2. When you pull the panel for the controller you will want to remove connector J3. The wires involved are numbered 8150, and 8110. 8100 goes back to the fuel shutoff solenoid from the relay. 8100 should be in connector 403 pin E. If you pull the un-switched power fuse (F4) you can should check continuity between J3, pin C2, wire 8110 with all other J3 pins. If you find continuity then you have a harness problem.

It's going to be tough if you don't have any codes.
Sorry, been busy working. Thank you very much for the info, I'll try to work on it tonight or tomorrow and let you know. Definitely no codes though. I'll try adding my email.
 
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