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853 axle/driveshaft/hub/bearings
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<blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 13888" data-attributes="member: 307"><p>What you need to do to tear it apart is pretty much described in this thread.</p><p><a href="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=13406" target="_blank">http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=13406</a></p><p>Weather its worth it or not depends on where you think you will be pricewise at the end.</p><p>A 853 can be had for in the 9 to 11 US range. Manuals are available on ebay from "maxxwedge" or at the dealers. They have a new one out for the 773 that is $82 instead of $55 but has great detail compared to the one I bought 4 years ago. Not sure if they updated the 853 one as it was only mad a few years, but I'd ask b4 buying one at the dealer.</p><p>My first concern would be to lift the cab and open the chaincase and see how everything else looks in there. Depending on what failed first you may need to change more then one set of bearings. The axels are not supposed to have more then about .010" end play. They use a common tappered bearing and cone. There is no threaded adjustment, they are either ok or need replaced.</p><p>Which also means if you are replacing the end of the axel tube inboard from where the outer bearing sits, then you will need to be quite precise. You may need to take another axel out to get measurements.</p><p>As far as welding it, I think sleeving the outside after may be over kill, but likely worth it. Had the tube broke on the inside end at the chaincase there would be quite a lever effect working on the weld that your not going to see on the outboard end.</p><p>I wonder if the axel tube is available as a part? Or removed from a wreck. It would be easier to put a whole new tube in and you would be back to straight, exact lengths for bearing space and strength.</p><p>Also the 853 are a rugged and reliable old machine, but the hydros drives are not as user friendly as the 700 series. The sticks don't have the feel in them and green horns have a harder time controling them. Even with ample seat time I still find it harder to do fine work with it then any of my other loaders.</p><p>I'm sure this can be saved, but it's not a job for the faint of heart.</p><p>Ken</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skidsteer.ca, post: 13888, member: 307"] What you need to do to tear it apart is pretty much described in this thread. [URL='https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=13406']http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=13406[/URL] Weather its worth it or not depends on where you think you will be pricewise at the end. A 853 can be had for in the 9 to 11 US range. Manuals are available on ebay from “maxxwedge” or at the dealers. They have a new one out for the 773 that is $82 instead of $55 but has great detail compared to the one I bought 4 years ago. Not sure if they updated the 853 one as it was only mad a few years, but I'd ask b4 buying one at the dealer. My first concern would be to lift the cab and open the chaincase and see how everything else looks in there. Depending on what failed first you may need to change more then one set of bearings. The axels are not supposed to have more then about .010” end play. They use a common tappered bearing and cone. There is no threaded adjustment, they are either ok or need replaced. Which also means if you are replacing the end of the axel tube inboard from where the outer bearing sits, then you will need to be quite precise. You may need to take another axel out to get measurements. As far as welding it, I think sleeving the outside after may be over kill, but likely worth it. Had the tube broke on the inside end at the chaincase there would be quite a lever effect working on the weld that your not going to see on the outboard end. I wonder if the axel tube is available as a part? Or removed from a wreck. It would be easier to put a whole new tube in and you would be back to straight, exact lengths for bearing space and strength. Also the 853 are a rugged and reliable old machine, but the hydros drives are not as user friendly as the 700 series. The sticks don't have the feel in them and green horns have a harder time controling them. Even with ample seat time I still find it harder to do fine work with it then any of my other loaders. I'm sure this can be saved, but it's not a job for the faint of heart. Ken [/QUOTE]
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