853 axle bearing replacement questions

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70chall440

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Oct 30, 2014
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Hello all - I signed up to this site some time ago when I bought my 853 but I don't think I ever posted much. The machine has been awesome and I use it frequently for small jobs on the property, however I started to notice that 2 of the wheel seals were bad and I knew I had a bad bearing on the left front, so I know have the machine in my shop attempting to put all new bearings into it. I have to say that this has been a learning experience in a big way, I had to use 2 bottle jacks to get the 2 hubs off that I have removed thus far. I am currently working on the front left but I have some general questions; 1. is there a special tool or design of tool to remove the outer bearing races? I read on here where someone was saying to lay a weld bead on the race and it will shrink up and come out which is interesting. I removed one by cutting it and then "shocking" it with a chisel, it worked but not my favorite method. 2. how the hell do you torque the sprocket bolts anywhere near the 450-575 ftlbs the manual states? Working on the front is bad enough to loosen but I can only imagine what a nightmare the rear is going to be and I cannot imagine how to get them as tight as the manual calls out. 3. I've read where people are saying to use motor oil in the chain case verses hydraulic fluid, seems to me that as long as there is some type of lubrication in there its good? 4. in there a belly pan drain? I know there is a drain for the chain case but I seem to have some fluid beside (or maybe under) it. Something is leaking in there and I am not sure what but I intend to go around and tighten everything I can find. Whatever is leaking is doing so slowly, sometimes the fluid level is good and then the next time it is barely on the stick. 5. (random question) are the exterior hydraulic fittings (like where you hook up an accessory) 1/2 NPT lines? I still have Pioneer fittings and I am not a fan as they leak horribly when I am using my backhoe attachment Thank you in advance for any assistance.
 

Tazza

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I have heard techs hook up a spanner to the nut inside the chain case and use the motors to tighten and loosen the bolts. I have done it without a motor attached and hooked a big bar to the axle hub and swing off it.
I have had to use 2 bottle jacks to get the hub off too, worked well for me.
There is a plug at the rear of the chain case near where the fuel drain is under the motor area. If the fluid level is over the plug on the front of the chain case, you hae fluid being pumped into the chain case due to a bad deal.
Engine oil is fine for the chain case.
There is no reason why you can't install flat face coupers.
 
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70chall440

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
10
I have heard techs hook up a spanner to the nut inside the chain case and use the motors to tighten and loosen the bolts. I have done it without a motor attached and hooked a big bar to the axle hub and swing off it.
I have had to use 2 bottle jacks to get the hub off too, worked well for me.
There is a plug at the rear of the chain case near where the fuel drain is under the motor area. If the fluid level is over the plug on the front of the chain case, you hae fluid being pumped into the chain case due to a bad deal.
Engine oil is fine for the chain case.
There is no reason why you can't install flat face coupers.
Thanks for the information. I am a bit skeptical about using the motor to tighten the sprocket bolt, not saying it doesn't work or isn't valid just seems like something I could do safely. I will give that some thought. I was/am thinking more like long cheater bar. Can you (or someone) tell me if you have to remove (break) the chain to get the sprocket back onto the axles?
 
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70chall440

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Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
10
Thanks for the information. I am a bit skeptical about using the motor to tighten the sprocket bolt, not saying it doesn't work or isn't valid just seems like something I could do safely. I will give that some thought. I was/am thinking more like long cheater bar. Can you (or someone) tell me if you have to remove (break) the chain to get the sprocket back onto the axles?
Can anyone confirm that the exterior hydraulic are 1/2 npt?
 

Tazza

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You don't need to break the chain, but it is hard to get back on the axle as you need to lift the sprocket and chain to get it to engage the splines on the axle.
I thought all the lines are JIC not NPT, but i have never worked on an 853 hydraulic system.
 
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70chall440

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
10
You don't need to break the chain, but it is hard to get back on the axle as you need to lift the sprocket and chain to get it to engage the splines on the axle.
I thought all the lines are JIC not NPT, but i have never worked on an 853 hydraulic system.
Thanks I greatly appreciate the information/advice. I have been procrastinating on this repair but need to get it done. I am not sure but I think the hard lines are NPT but am not 100% sure. The Pioneer connectors that it came with leak badly if anything is connected to them. I want to change to the flat faced connectors. There are tons on eBay and they are relatively inexpensive.
 
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