843 and 709 working hard!

[HanSolo]

Sort of a success story with pictures I though I'd share. I know many of you here do this every day but I needed to replace my septic tank leech field. So I've got the tools, knowledge and money for materials to do it myself. I started at the beginning of July and now I'm about done. Wet weather slowed progress but I managed to keep the trenches in good shape. I guess this is a testiment just how much work you can accomplish with an old Bobcat and backhoe attachment.

Leech field trenches 36” wide x 24” deep.

Three trenches about 100' long. I started with a 12” bucket but got a 16” later that speeded digging up quite a bit.

I connected the three leech field pipes with two three-way diverter valves.

The last trench was about 100' to the septic tank. That's the old out-flow pipe that I'll take out after inspection. I've done every bit of this by myself and it's been tough. Before I started the leech field I installed about 300' of drain pipe around the leech field to help keep the area dry. Thank you Bobcat for these outstanding and long-lasting machines!

 

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i'd imagine you damn near paid for the price of a new machine with the money you saved doing it yourself. looks great man nice work.

 

[HanSolo]

i'd imagine you damn near paid for the price of a new machine with the money you saved doing it yourself. looks great man nice work.

Well probably not the price of new equipment but definitely what I've got in the used. $1500 for the 843 plus about $3000 in repairs and parts. And $2500 for the 709. So $7000 total and those are assets I can sell if I need to cash-in on my investment. Materials for the drain and leech fields are about $3000. I could see a plumbing contractor asking $10,000 for that amount of work.

 

[reaperman]

Well probably not the price of new equipment but definitely what I've got in the used. $1500 for the 843 plus about $3000 in repairs and parts. And $2500 for the 709. So $7000 total and those are assets I can sell if I need to cash-in on my investment. Materials for the drain and leech fields are about $3000. I could see a plumbing contractor asking $10,000 for that amount of work.

Is that 4" drain tile pipe you are using for the drainfield, it sure looks like it? I know septic system requirements are different in each state. Here in Minn, 4" perforated pvc is the standard. But its nice if you can get away with drain tile, its much cheaper. I give you a A+ for your patience and $$$ saving efforts. Also, that looks like some pretty heavy ground in your dealing with in your area. Around here a mound system would be used your situation, but they are a eye-sore. Nice job.

 

[HanSolo]

Is that 4" drain tile pipe you are using for the drainfield, it sure looks like it? I know septic system requirements are different in each state. Here in Minn, 4" perforated pvc is the standard. But its nice if you can get away with drain tile, its much cheaper. I give you a A+ for your patience and $$$ saving efforts. Also, that looks like some pretty heavy ground in your dealing with in your area. Around here a mound system would be used your situation, but they are a eye-sore. Nice job.

I used the flexible 100' x 4" PVC leech pipe which is spec here in middle Tenn. All the connecting pipes are PVC sewer pipe which unfortunately didn't pass inspection. They want schedule 40 thick wall so I'm going to have to re-do all that. I don't understand why sewer pipe can't be used on a septic system but that's the way it is...

 

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I used the flexible 100' x 4" PVC leech pipe which is spec here in middle Tenn. All the connecting pipes are PVC sewer pipe which unfortunately didn't pass inspection. They want schedule 40 thick wall so I'm going to have to re-do all that. I don't understand why sewer pipe can't be used on a septic system but that's the way it is...

it's really close to the surface, if you drive a car or anything over that it could crush the pipe. that's why they that sched 40

 

[reaperman]

I used the flexible 100' x 4" PVC leech pipe which is spec here in middle Tenn. All the connecting pipes are PVC sewer pipe which unfortunately didn't pass inspection. They want schedule 40 thick wall so I'm going to have to re-do all that. I don't understand why sewer pipe can't be used on a septic system but that's the way it is...

Regulations?? They dont always make sense! New sewer (and water) construction, doesnt require sch 40 pipe when it is brought into a new lots for new homes. SDR 35 (most likely the pipe you used) meets code and is used. But once a new home is built on that lot, the connection from the home, to the point to where the sewer main was stubbed into the new homes lot. Sch 40 is code where it is then connected to the SDR 35. So now its one long pipe from the home to the sewer main in the street with two different types of pvc. Normally septics are regulated by the counties, or the state, not cities. So its a whole different code for doing anything. As far as the pipe you used from the tank to the drainfield, it would be just fine and most likely last forever. Sure sch 40 is heavier, but a lot more costly. I think our wholesale price difference is a bit over $1/ foot. Not to mention the 100 feet of pipe you did use and most likely cannot return.

 

[HanSolo]

Regulations?? They dont always make sense! New sewer (and water) construction, doesnt require sch 40 pipe when it is brought into a new lots for new homes. SDR 35 (most likely the pipe you used) meets code and is used. But once a new home is built on that lot, the connection from the home, to the point to where the sewer main was stubbed into the new homes lot. Sch 40 is code where it is then connected to the SDR 35. So now its one long pipe from the home to the sewer main in the street with two different types of pvc. Normally septics are regulated by the counties, or the state, not cities. So its a whole different code for doing anything. As far as the pipe you used from the tank to the drainfield, it would be just fine and most likely last forever. Sure sch 40 is heavier, but a lot more costly. I think our wholesale price difference is a bit over $1/ foot. Not to mention the 100 feet of pipe you did use and most likely cannot return.

I hear that Tom. But with a good sand bedding and cover, I think it would have been fine. You'll notice that the original outlet pipe was the thin wall, has been in the ground for decades and is holding up fine. The inspector wants me to move one of the diverter valves up from the leech field and put it by the tank. She said that way I can still us the old leech field if the new gets over-loaded. Makes sense. She was in the leech field trenches with a probe shooting grades when I arrived! She said I actually did a real good job on those and let me back-fill. With as much rain as we've been getting this month, I was really worried that they would get sediment with a heavy rain before I was allowed to back-fill. And get this Reaper, when the inspector specified the job, she wanted a curtain drain surrounding the leech field. Another good idea. However, she said the outlet on that couldn't be below the flood level of my creek. No problem. I set me final pipe grade at that elevation, worked my way up-slope and found my beginning grade while maintaining fall. That put all 300' of that drain pipe anywhere from 1' to 2' deep. When she inspected she said that should have been 3' deep. My response, well that would put the outlet in the flood plain! She wanted the outlet near the creek. Well, that requires an EPA permit! You just can't win with these people! However, I told her that the curtain drain was moving water well during some heavy rains at the beginning of July and she said we could look at that again following the coming winter. So I dodged a bullet on that for a while. Okay fellas, I'm going out to cut out all that brand new pipe this morning. I'll salvage what I can for other uses around the property.

 

[reaperman]

I hear that Tom. But with a good sand bedding and cover, I think it would have been fine. You'll notice that the original outlet pipe was the thin wall, has been in the ground for decades and is holding up fine. The inspector wants me to move one of the diverter valves up from the leech field and put it by the tank. She said that way I can still us the old leech field if the new gets over-loaded. Makes sense. She was in the leech field trenches with a probe shooting grades when I arrived! She said I actually did a real good job on those and let me back-fill. With as much rain as we've been getting this month, I was really worried that they would get sediment with a heavy rain before I was allowed to back-fill. And get this Reaper, when the inspector specified the job, she wanted a curtain drain surrounding the leech field. Another good idea. However, she said the outlet on that couldn't be below the flood level of my creek. No problem. I set me final pipe grade at that elevation, worked my way up-slope and found my beginning grade while maintaining fall. That put all 300' of that drain pipe anywhere from 1' to 2' deep. When she inspected she said that should have been 3' deep. My response, well that would put the outlet in the flood plain! She wanted the outlet near the creek. Well, that requires an EPA permit! You just can't win with these people! However, I told her that the curtain drain was moving water well during some heavy rains at the beginning of July and she said we could look at that again following the coming winter. So I dodged a bullet on that for a while. Okay fellas, I'm going out to cut out all that brand new pipe this morning. I'll salvage what I can for other uses around the property.

Wow, she wanted the trenches 3' deep? The shallower the better because shallower drainfields count on evaporation from the sun to keep the system dryer. Around here, anything deeper than 3' is against code, for that reason. Over the years we have been out to repair counless drainfields where the sun cannot penetrate overhanging trees. The fields get so saturated during rainy periods and simply cannot dry out because of the shade. So the shallower the better. I'm glad your project has come to an end, not its time to get some grass planted. Another thing I have noticed over the years is when the inspector turns out to be a "she", all common sense on the jobsite, just ended.

 

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Wow, she wanted the trenches 3' deep? The shallower the better because shallower drainfields count on evaporation from the sun to keep the system dryer. Around here, anything deeper than 3' is against code, for that reason. Over the years we have been out to repair counless drainfields where the sun cannot penetrate overhanging trees. The fields get so saturated during rainy periods and simply cannot dry out because of the shade. So the shallower the better. I'm glad your project has come to an end, not its time to get some grass planted. Another thing I have noticed over the years is when the inspector turns out to be a "she", all common sense on the jobsite, just ended.

i don't disagree that it probably would have been fine, but unfortunately my opinion doesnt matter the the inspector haha.

 

[Tazza]

i don't disagree that it probably would have been fine, but unfortunately my opinion doesnt matter the the inspector haha.

Awesome job. I'd do the same, if the time was available, better to do it your self. I figure i can charge myself a better rate than a contractor