My tractor is a 763F SN 512232614, approximately 2100 hours. I use my tractor occasionally. The other day a small leak I have been searching for turned into a gusher! Hydraulic fluid is streaming out of the control valve Lift Spool Detent. It is coming out right where the Clip and washer are on the end of the detent sleeve. I have the service manual that shows the disassembly process. However, this is done with the control valve on the bench. My questions are: Do I buy a full lift spool replacement or just a seal kit? Can this be done in the tractor? (The thought of having to pull the control valve is NOT appealing) I am a pretty handy occasional mechanic but never worked on this part of the tractor before. The service manual steps are as follows: Remove snap ring and washer Remove two screws from the detent bonnet Remove the bonnet Wrap a shop towel around the detent assembly. This will prevent the detent balls and spring from being lost when the detent sleeve is removed (sounds like this is a guaranteed oh crap) Remove the detent sleeve, detent balls, and spring Remove spool assembly from the control valve Remove the spool seal from the control valve ... the rest is breaking down the components of the spool assembly Can the spool assembly be removed without pulling the detent sleeve off so as not to scatter the balls and spring into the bowels of the tractor? Will the dealership have a seal kit or will I need to list every seal and o-ring individually. Are there any pitfalls to watch out for? Thanks in advance. DC
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Sorry, I don't check in often enough or I'd have been on this sooner. You can replace the seals with the valve in the machine. You unhook the linkage at the front, remove the electronic spool lock solenoids, take the two bolts off the cap at the back but keep the cap on, push the spool out the back as an assembly. I did a T180 and had to remove the detent assembly first because the fuel tank got in the way. If you have to remove the detent just wrap it with a towel to make sure you don't lose the bearings or spring inside the cup. If you do lose the bearings don't panic, you can buy them at Lowes or Menards. Yes the dealer will have seals. There are two green inner seals that seal to the shaft spool and then I think the rest are o-ring seals. I'd look inside your 763 and try to determine if it will come out the back without removing the detent cup but don't be afraid to remove it as it's really not that hard to take off without having the bearings go flying. What IS difficult is installing the detent with the shaft back in the machine. I pair if thin jaw channel locks comes in handy for compressing bearings and spring then sliding the cup back on. Hope this helps.
This does help. Thank you for chiming in.Sorry, I don't check in often enough or I'd have been on this sooner. You can replace the seals with the valve in the machine. You unhook the linkage at the front, remove the electronic spool lock solenoids, take the two bolts off the cap at the back but keep the cap on, push the spool out the back as an assembly. I did a T180 and had to remove the detent assembly first because the fuel tank got in the way. If you have to remove the detent just wrap it with a towel to make sure you don't lose the bearings or spring inside the cup. If you do lose the bearings don't panic, you can buy them at Lowes or Menards. Yes the dealer will have seals. There are two green inner seals that seal to the shaft spool and then I think the rest are o-ring seals. I'd look inside your 763 and try to determine if it will come out the back without removing the detent cup but don't be afraid to remove it as it's really not that hard to take off without having the bearings go flying. What IS difficult is installing the detent with the shaft back in the machine. I pair if thin jaw channel locks comes in handy for compressing bearings and spring then sliding the cup back on. Hope this helps.
The manual discusses replacing the plastic plug inside the end of the lift spool shaft. Is this something that is critical, or dont mess with it unless broken?
Even though just one spool is leaking, I expect the recommendation is to do both. Are there any other areas I should address while having things apart?
Many thanks.
Daen
When I have done them I have just replaced the leaking spool. To be honest I didn't know there was a plastic plug inside the end of the spool. Make sure you pay attention to the direction the green seals come out. I didn't hand had to do this job twice. Good luck! And I'll check back if you have more questions.This does help. Thank you for chiming in.
The manual discusses replacing the plastic plug inside the end of the lift spool shaft. Is this something that is critical, or dont mess with it unless broken?
Even though just one spool is leaking, I expect the recommendation is to do both. Are there any other areas I should address while having things apart?
Many thanks.
Daen
Greatdaen, there is a lot of good information in this thread on a different forum related to valve seals replacement. It's not a bad job and I would do both the lift and tilt at the same time. It will be easier to get to the lift spool with the tilt out as well.When I have done them I have just replaced the leaking spool. To be honest I didn't know there was a plastic plug inside the end of the spool. Make sure you pay attention to the direction the green seals come out. I didn't hand had to do this job twice. Good luck! And I'll check back if you have more questions.
Good luck.
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/replacing-bobcat-loader-control-valve-seals.18714/
BCG,When I have done them I have just replaced the leaking spool. To be honest I didn't know there was a plastic plug inside the end of the spool. Make sure you pay attention to the direction the green seals come out. I didn't hand had to do this job twice. Good luck! And I'll check back if you have more questions.
the manual shows this small plastic plug under an allen screw in the end of the spool. To remove it says to drill, then thread in a #6-32 tap and use the tap to extract the plug. It looks like the plug has a very small o-ring and I speculate it plugs some holes drilled in manufacturing to create some cross-drilled port feature.
I had seen in other posts the reminder to pay attention to the seal orientation.
I might not get to this for a few weeks but I will give a report.
I have never replaced the plastic plug either, i think it's critical to replace it only if you remove the centering spring, as you are meant to heat the spool to soften the loctite.BCG,
the manual shows this small plastic plug under an allen screw in the end of the spool. To remove it says to drill, then thread in a #6-32 tap and use the tap to extract the plug. It looks like the plug has a very small o-ring and I speculate it plugs some holes drilled in manufacturing to create some cross-drilled port feature.
I had seen in other posts the reminder to pay attention to the seal orientation.
I might not get to this for a few weeks but I will give a report.
I second the note to keep an eye on seal direction, the lips must face the pressure side.
