763 Arm Lift Pedal Choppy

[bobcatskid763]

I have 763G series with foot controls. The tilt cylinder pedal works fine and smooth. The pedal makes the arms go up without any issues. The pedal gets stuck when trying to move the arms down. The arms either go down very slow or if I press much harder, the arms drop fast (not float). I can still shove the pedal all the way to the front and lock it in float but it is very hard to control the arms when I don't have good control with the arms going down.

I already lifted the cab and lubricated all pivot points and replaced the lift pedal bushing.

 

[rkenshin1]

I have this exact problem right now, on a 742. So far, I've replaced any worn bushings, links and pins at the spool, and the lovely crossarm bushing under the pump (had to pull engine, lift pump, cut it with a sawzall....

This cleared up all the loose play, but it still isn't smoothed out in a few hours I'm going to recheck things on the pedal, if there's some jagged metal on the pivot pin or something, causing it to bind up when there's pressure.

 

[bobcatskid763]

I have this exact problem right now, on a 742. So far, I've replaced any worn bushings, links and pins at the spool, and the lovely crossarm bushing under the pump (had to pull engine, lift pump, cut it with a sawzall....

This cleared up all the loose play, but it still isn't smoothed out in a few hours I'm going to recheck things on the pedal, if there's some jagged metal on the pivot pin or something, causing it to bind up when there's pressure.

When i lifted the cab I noticed some fluid below the hydraulic tank. I'm now wondering if I could have issues with the lift control valve seals or the detent ball/spring that are used to engage float. I'm not sure whether the leak is coming from the hose below the hydraulic tank or the valve. I guess if I have corrosion in the area of the detent spring, I suspect it might be causing the arms to bind up.

 

[rkenshin1]

Yeah, I am wondering the same too, I just wanted to check everything else first. Mine only has a small leak at the spool. I read that you can pull/push on the spools to check for any binding, which I haven't done yet... Pulling that out will be the last thing I'll try to fix, but it does need to get fixed!

 

[rkenshin1]

So, I did end up fixing it, I think... Removing the play helped, I couldn't even get it to detente before. The rest was making the entire thing smoother.

Here's a the list of what I did:

-New bushing in pedal
-Drilled out hole in linkage by pedal and pressed a small bronze bushing in (metal was scored a bit), used a shoulder bolt instead of threaded
-Tightened bushing at the 90 degree bend and replaced with a shoulder bolt (tightening seemed to help it not twist)
-New bushing and insert from bobcat under pump on pivot point (PAIN to do, but necessary to fix the play I had)
-New links and bolts on the linkage and spool
-Added a support bearing between the pedal and 90 degree bend

The two things that seemed to help the most in my case were changing the link set up at the spool and that added bearing.

The original setup I had was a piece of metal pinned to the spool and another pin on the linkage. Pulling it out worked fine, but when pushing, that link would start to twist to an angle.

I noticed on the parts catalog that the bobcat links should have two bolts or pins on the linkage arm, probably to prevent that... But my arm only had one hole and wasn't set up that way. I just drilled and added a second bolt after lining it up the best I could.

The added bearing.... I don't fully understand, but lifting that 90 degree bend up just 1/2" cured a ton of the friction. I decided to bolt an old bearing on a flat bar, and bolt the bar to the inside wall to support it.

It'll never be as smooth as the other pedal, but this helped a lot with being able to finesse the lift arms!

 

[bobcatskid763]

So, I did end up fixing it, I think... Removing the play helped, I couldn't even get it to detente before. The rest was making the entire thing smoother.

Here's a the list of what I did:

-New bushing in pedal
-Drilled out hole in linkage by pedal and pressed a small bronze bushing in (metal was scored a bit), used a shoulder bolt instead of threaded
-Tightened bushing at the 90 degree bend and replaced with a shoulder bolt (tightening seemed to help it not twist)
-New bushing and insert from bobcat under pump on pivot point (PAIN to do, but necessary to fix the play I had)
-New links and bolts on the linkage and spool
-Added a support bearing between the pedal and 90 degree bend

The two things that seemed to help the most in my case were changing the link set up at the spool and that added bearing.

The original setup I had was a piece of metal pinned to the spool and another pin on the linkage. Pulling it out worked fine, but when pushing, that link would start to twist to an angle.

I noticed on the parts catalog that the bobcat links should have two bolts or pins on the linkage arm, probably to prevent that... But my arm only had one hole and wasn't set up that way. I just drilled and added a second bolt after lining it up the best I could.

The added bearing.... I don't fully understand, but lifting that 90 degree bend up just 1/2" cured a ton of the friction. I decided to bolt an old bearing on a flat bar, and bolt the bar to the inside wall to support it.

It'll never be as smooth as the other pedal, but this helped a lot with being able to finesse the lift arms!

Interesting, how many hours do you have on the skid steer and how worn out is everything? Mine is at around 3k hours and the various linkages don't have much play now. The pedal bushing was completely shot - most of the rubber was done so it had close to 1/4" of play inside. I'm still suspecting the issue with the control valve on mine as the issue is not more pronounced now that the play is mostly gone.

 

[Dave the Ozzie]

Could your issue be in the actual detent mechanism at the rear of the spool housing? This also centres the spool in the neutral position with a spring when not in use but if the alloy housing wears that holds the balls then it could be binding up. Be aware that if you remove this cup off the back of the spool housing a couple ball bearings may want to leave the chat.

 

[bobcatskid763]

Could your issue be in the actual detent mechanism at the rear of the spool housing? This also centres the spool in the neutral position with a spring when not in use but if the alloy housing wears that holds the balls then it could be binding up. Be aware that if you remove this cup off the back of the spool housing a couple ball bearings may want to leave the chat.

Could be. I ordered various seals along with replacement detent balls and springs just in case.

 

[bobcatskid763]

Update: took apart the lift valve spool, replaced the tiny white plastic seal/the o-ring, two springs and 4 detent balls, greased the entire detent assembly and put everything back together with new spool seals. The lift pedal is now extremely smooth. I believe it was the detent components being slightly rusted and worn, which prevented the pedal from operating properly when lowering the arms.

 

[FJRDarksider]

Update: took apart the lift valve spool, replaced the tiny white plastic seal/the o-ring, two springs and 4 detent balls, greased the entire detent assembly and put everything back together with new spool seals. The lift pedal is now extremely smooth. I believe it was the detent components being slightly rusted and worn, which prevented the pedal from operating properly when lowering the arms.

I had the same problem with mine until I pulled the spool and cleaned the detent assembly (was dry and full of crud). Installed new seals and dust caps as well......did the trick.

 

[bobcatskid763]

I had the same problem with mine until I pulled the spool and cleaned the detent assembly (was dry and full of crud). Installed new seals and dust caps as well......did the trick.

Mine didn't have the dust caps. I ordered them and will install once they arrive.

 

[bolingp]

mine got choppy and gets to a point that it just shuts down the bucket and lft. have to turn key of and wait 2 minutes for it to reset and the it goes for about 15 minutes . the inter lock controls be the seat , all lights are green then when it goes in this mode the "Valve light fleshes ON AND OFF 3 TIME . all info on ths code says its a sensor witch sensor their are a lot of sensors , whitch on controls the lift valve as it deems to lock up
Thanks for your help
Patrck

 

[bobcatskid763]

mine got choppy and gets to a point that it just shuts down the bucket and lft. have to turn key of and wait 2 minutes for it to reset and the it goes for about 15 minutes . the inter lock controls be the seat , all lights are green then when it goes in this mode the "Valve light fleshes ON AND OFF 3 TIME . all info on ths code says its a sensor witch sensor their are a lot of sensors , whitch on controls the lift valve as it deems to lock up
Thanks for your help
Patrck

On mine, the lift and tilt spools have electric spool lock solenoids with a wire to it. These solenoids retract and allow the spool to operate once you press the green button. If the solenoids don't retract all the way, it could potentially lock up either lift or tilt. I suspect that's what's happening in your case. To take out the solenoids, you need to use 1" wrench. The solenoid part number for 763 is 6676029. Go to bobcat parts catalog and see if your machine has the same ones. These solenoids are typically the same for both lift and tilt. If you are having issues with lift, you can try swapping solenoids for tilt and lift and see if the issue moves to tilt. If that's the case, replace the faulty solenoid.

It could also be one of the sensors that control the BICS system - seat, arm bar, etc. This would require more involved troubleshooting but there are a bunch of videos on youtube.

 

[Dave the Ozzie]

Update: took apart the lift valve spool, replaced the tiny white plastic seal/the o-ring, two springs and 4 detent balls, greased the entire detent assembly and put everything back together with new spool seals. The lift pedal is now extremely smooth. I believe it was the detent components being slightly rusted and worn, which prevented the pedal from operating properly when lowering the arms.

Great to hear, I thought that the detent would be worth looking at after reading your description of your issue.