743 missing tilt cylinder and other problems

[HEFix]

I've got a 743 with a missing tilt cylinder, I'm wondering if anyone has one available or knows where to get one that's "recycled" (taken from a parts machine), I got a quote from a dealership and just about lost my jaw through the floor.... The cylinder that was on the unit popped apart and was unrepairable according to the previous owner. Also, the pin on the left side stripped and was loose making the hole in the arm out of round, is there a way to fix it without major surgery/big bucks for a new boom assembly?

 

[Tazza]

You will need to keep looking for the cylinder.
You can grind the boss out of the top of the arms and weld new ones in. It will fix up the wear, i have done this before.

 

[HEFix]

You will need to keep looking for the cylinder.
You can grind the boss out of the top of the arms and weld new ones in. It will fix up the wear, i have done this before.

I should have been a little more clear, the top pivots look great, it was the bolt for the tapered bobtach pin that stripped out allowing for the pin to wobble making the hole in the arm out of round, it almost looks like there's a bushing in the arm, but I can't be sure. It also loosened up the pin bushing in the bobtach making the bushing bore bellshaped where the bushing was wobbling, I'm thinking maybe I could weld in the bushing, or a new one if it's too far out of tolerance once I get a new pin rather than cutting the bushing bore out and replacing it... I know it's kind of mickey mouse... but the bushing bore ain't cheap, and in theory that would work for awhile until the bushing wore out again... and replace the bushing bore at that time, or if that would be an exercise in futility. If it's not a good idea to do the jerry rig, how do I cut out the old bushing bore? I'm thinking a big holesaw... or lots of little bites with plasma or o/a. Also, it has a tendancy to creep backwards, is there some kind of adjustment to fix that, it seems if it's run full speed forward and backward for a little while the creeping stops, the parking brake won't hold it from doing it either, I'm not sure if it's just out of adjustment or if it needs some new parts... the brake plate doesn't seem to do anything when it's wobbled either way.

 

[Tazza]

I should have been a little more clear, the top pivots look great, it was the bolt for the tapered bobtach pin that stripped out allowing for the pin to wobble making the hole in the arm out of round, it almost looks like there's a bushing in the arm, but I can't be sure. It also loosened up the pin bushing in the bobtach making the bushing bore bellshaped where the bushing was wobbling, I'm thinking maybe I could weld in the bushing, or a new one if it's too far out of tolerance once I get a new pin rather than cutting the bushing bore out and replacing it... I know it's kind of mickey mouse... but the bushing bore ain't cheap, and in theory that would work for awhile until the bushing wore out again... and replace the bushing bore at that time, or if that would be an exercise in futility. If it's not a good idea to do the jerry rig, how do I cut out the old bushing bore? I'm thinking a big holesaw... or lots of little bites with plasma or o/a. Also, it has a tendancy to creep backwards, is there some kind of adjustment to fix that, it seems if it's run full speed forward and backward for a little while the creeping stops, the parking brake won't hold it from doing it either, I'm not sure if it's just out of adjustment or if it needs some new parts... the brake plate doesn't seem to do anything when it's wobbled either way.

Ah, now i get you!
The steering is an adjustment, as is the park brake.
Now the bobtach wear.... This can be a total pig. I'm currently working on a worn bobtach on a 763 and a 753G, both have worn the pivot point in the bobtach out badly, they wore through the bushing and into the boss that the bushing used to sit in. Now the 743 is no where near as easy, but you should be able to use the old boss out and weld a new one in, i'm doing that now, still machining new bosses. This is only half your problem though. As you said your tapered pins have been loose and have wobbled around causing wear so new pins will not seat correctly.
This really depends on what gear you have available. The 743 i use now, the previous owner in his *wisdom* got the pins and bobtach bored out and installed 1 1/4" bolts!!!! they wore out badly at the bottom of the lift arms. I machined new pins and new bosses for the lower pins on the arms. These were tapers set at i think 7 degrees. Both the pins and bosses were machined at the same time so the angles were the same. Again this depends if you have access to a lathe. Now, to line them up i got a length of rod and worked out the lengths, machines 2 tapers and installed the bosses on the ends, put them in the arms so the pins were in a perfect straight line with each other. I then welded them into the arms with low hydrogen rods to get an excellent weld job. Then cut the rod in 2 places to get it out. Machining the bosses on the bobtach wasn't so easy, i line bored it but it did the job. Made new bushings and it worked great. If you can get the old ones out with a torch or plasma, install the new pins to line the bosses up before welding and you should be set.
Long winded i know, but its a few ideas. No matter how bad the damage is, it CAN be fixed with some time and effort.

 

[Centurion]

I have a tilt cylinder for a 743 it is a backup, just had it totally rebuilt by HP hydraulics, I have about $750.00 tied up in it if you are interested. Has new everything inside. If you have any questions let me know. We will also need to be sure that this one will fit your 743, there are 3 different versions I think

Fred