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743 hydraulic fluid pressure switch and coolant sender disconnected
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<blockquote data-quote="MaxW" data-source="post: 58272" data-attributes="member: 7705"><p>There ya go, you're posting pictures!</p><p></p><p>Another thing I've had to do manually is use the line break code {BR} to add a bit of format to my posts.</p><p>I'm sure there is a setting somewhere that makes this unnecessary but I haven't found it.</p><p></p><p>As for the temp gauge, the one in our 443B was stuck, the needle would move a little and then jam.</p><p>The gauge is made by Faria, and you see these in a lot of marine applications. What is inside them is pretty low tech, a couple resistors, a zener diode. The needle movement is a cylindrical magnet mounted in a cheap plastic frame with wire wound around it.</p><p>If the nuts connecting the wires on the back of the gauge are a bit tight they will twist the brass studs which distorts or breaks the cheap plastic frame jamming the gauge. Faria even mentions this in one of their trouble shooting guides.</p><p>So just snug up the nuts holding the wires to the brass posts.</p><p></p><p>Also, if you need to test the gauge itself, you can substitute a fixed resistor for the sender wire to simulate a temperature. With the Faria temp gauge I had I used a 100 ohm, 47 ohm and 27 ohm resistors to simulate low, mid, and high readings on the gauge. The resistances may vary with the type of gauge, but the idea is the same. The test resistor is used instead of the sender, so you disconnect the wire at the sender, connect the wire to one end of the resistor and the other end of the resistor is grounded.</p><p>Since you are replacing both the sender and the gauge you should not have to do anything more then just hook it all up. Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MaxW, post: 58272, member: 7705"] There ya go, you're posting pictures! Another thing I've had to do manually is use the line break code {BR} to add a bit of format to my posts. I'm sure there is a setting somewhere that makes this unnecessary but I haven't found it. As for the temp gauge, the one in our 443B was stuck, the needle would move a little and then jam. The gauge is made by Faria, and you see these in a lot of marine applications. What is inside them is pretty low tech, a couple resistors, a zener diode. The needle movement is a cylindrical magnet mounted in a cheap plastic frame with wire wound around it. If the nuts connecting the wires on the back of the gauge are a bit tight they will twist the brass studs which distorts or breaks the cheap plastic frame jamming the gauge. Faria even mentions this in one of their trouble shooting guides. So just snug up the nuts holding the wires to the brass posts. Also, if you need to test the gauge itself, you can substitute a fixed resistor for the sender wire to simulate a temperature. With the Faria temp gauge I had I used a 100 ohm, 47 ohm and 27 ohm resistors to simulate low, mid, and high readings on the gauge. The resistances may vary with the type of gauge, but the idea is the same. The test resistor is used instead of the sender, so you disconnect the wire at the sender, connect the wire to one end of the resistor and the other end of the resistor is grounded. Since you are replacing both the sender and the gauge you should not have to do anything more then just hook it all up. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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743 hydraulic fluid pressure switch and coolant sender disconnected
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