743 chain-case oil

[billrbg]

I have had it for nearly 20 years and never checked that. It has done such heroic work recently, busting and hauling 40 tons of concrete, that I decided to treat it to a change of engine oil/filter and check the chain-case. Through the plug in the front of the chain-case I can feel the oil with my finger, and see it with a light, but I think it is about 3/4" below the bottom of that front hole. Good enough? If not, is the cover I pull off to easily fill it the plate the "parking brake" is mounted on?

 

[antfarmer2]

I would give it a real treat and clean it out and change it you can use your hydro fluid if it is in good shape and give the hydro new yes take the front cover off to clean it out

 

[antfarmer2]

I would give it a real treat and clean it out and change it you can use your hydro fluid if it is in good shape and give the hydro new yes take the front cover off to clean it out

The oil should be at the bottom of the plug hole

 

[antfarmer2]

The oil should be at the bottom of the plug hole

And you can fill it through the front plug but has earnd a oil change

 

[doger5]

And you can fill it through the front plug but has earnd a oil change

drain the oil and check if you got water ( it will look milky ) if not fill straight 30w or 40w oil to the plug hole bottom . don't use too thin of a oil as your old axle seals can weep and this being a 743 , pulling axle are not fun . If you have gotten water in the case , probably has enter through the plate were your brake is and needs to be pulled and resealed.

 

[rnbuck01]

drain the oil and check if you got water ( it will look milky ) if not fill straight 30w or 40w oil to the plug hole bottom . don't use too thin of a oil as your old axle seals can weep and this being a 743 , pulling axle are not fun . If you have gotten water in the case , probably has enter through the plate were your brake is and needs to be pulled and resealed.

Jack the back end up a little so its at a slant. Pull off front chaincase cover, pump out old oil. Lower bobcat down and fill with bobcat hyd oil to bottom of hole.

 

[antfarmer2]

Jack the back end up a little so its at a slant. Pull off front chaincase cover, pump out old oil. Lower bobcat down and fill with bobcat hyd oil to bottom of hole.

You relly need to get in there and clean it out with rags and diesl alot of crap in there after so many years

 

[billrbg]

You relly need to get in there and clean it out with rags and diesl alot of crap in there after so many years

If I remove the cover with the parking-brake pedal on it, will that give me enough access to clean the case?

 

[doger5]

If I remove the cover with the parking-brake pedal on it, will that give me enough access to clean the case?

Wasting your time , just drain and add clean oil , you will regret opening the case . You will never reach all the way to the back and its a bit of work removing the cover. When you in there the money in your wallet will disappear as it never ends . If the oil comes out clean replace with new and don't get to anal .

 

[doger5]

Wasting your time , just drain and add clean oil , you will regret opening the case . You will never reach all the way to the back and its a bit of work removing the cover. When you in there the money in your wallet will disappear as it never ends . If the oil comes out clean replace with new and don't get to anal .

buy a cheap drill pump and suck the fluid out and use the pump to refill

 

[wbecker]

buy a cheap drill pump and suck the fluid out and use the pump to refill

If you take the cover off you can use a suck bucket with your shop vac, makes it easy to get the oil out. In my opinion there is no use in changing oil if you don't clean it out. It is not like engine oil where the oil is contaminated with combustion byproducts and additives are worn out. The oil in case needs changing to make it clean to reduce wear on the parts in there. Bill B

 

[antfarmer2]

If you take the cover off you can use a suck bucket with your shop vac, makes it easy to get the oil out. In my opinion there is no use in changing oil if you don't clean it out. It is not like engine oil where the oil is contaminated with combustion byproducts and additives are worn out. The oil in case needs changing to make it clean to reduce wear on the parts in there. Bill B

I agree with wbecker just jack up the back drain all the oil and clean with rags and fuel might use a stick to get to the back if your not going to clean it don't bother you can clean it when you replace the bearings kind of like takeing a shower and putting back on your dirty underware

 

[billrbg]

I agree with wbecker just jack up the back drain all the oil and clean with rags and fuel might use a stick to get to the back if your not going to clean it don't bother you can clean it when you replace the bearings kind of like takeing a shower and putting back on your dirty underware

Is there no real drain plug; the only way to get all (even most) of the oil out is by sucking through the front plug or top cover? There is no need to continue the debate, about drain-only vs. clean-completely, for my sake. I understand the relative benefits of each method and will decide what to do when I get into the job.

 

[Dgreen4298]

Is there no real drain plug; the only way to get all (even most) of the oil out is by sucking through the front plug or top cover? There is no need to continue the debate, about drain-only vs. clean-completely, for my sake. I understand the relative benefits of each method and will decide what to do when I get into the job.

I have an 843 that I am changing the chains and case oil in, took the pumps out and removed the covers, I couldn't believe the amount of metal shavings that I found in the bottom of the case. There was a lot of water in there along with an old chain plate and an old chain guide. The oil looked good from the top until I reached in and scraped the sludge off the bottom. The chain also looked new it was just rubbing the gear case. Rub your hand on the bottom of the case, if you come up with a lot of glitter sludge take it apart and clean it out, that is the right way to do it. It will prevent damage to your wheel bearings, gearboxes and chains.

 

[wbecker]

I have an 843 that I am changing the chains and case oil in, took the pumps out and removed the covers, I couldn't believe the amount of metal shavings that I found in the bottom of the case. There was a lot of water in there along with an old chain plate and an old chain guide. The oil looked good from the top until I reached in and scraped the sludge off the bottom. The chain also looked new it was just rubbing the gear case. Rub your hand on the bottom of the case, if you come up with a lot of glitter sludge take it apart and clean it out, that is the right way to do it. It will prevent damage to your wheel bearings, gearboxes and chains.

As far as I know there is no drain plug, the best way I know is a such bucket, but you do need to take the cover off to do that. Bill B

 

[antfarmer2]

As far as I know there is no drain plug, the best way I know is a such bucket, but you do need to take the cover off to do that. Bill B

The only plug is in the front I put some earth magnets in the case after rebuilding it

 

[billrbg]

The only plug is in the front I put some earth magnets in the case after rebuilding it

I finally got around to opening the chain-case today and bailing out the old oil, now I have a few questions: 1) Those two big disks, with the square drive, are really floppy. Not radially, but side-to-side, since they are fairly thin and have no real hub. I'm thinking those are rotors for the parking brake and I shouldn't be too concerned about them, correct? 2) The chains are fairly loose, about 2.375" from "full up" to "full down" with the other side of the chain tight. I'm talking about just the front chains, of course, the ones that are easy to see with the case cover off. Considering the size of those chains, the operating speed, and that slack is the same on both sides, I intend to leave them alone unless somebody can suggest a critical reason to fuss with them. 3) There are white plastic blocks/guides under each chain. Those blocks are each attached to a single large screw. One block is tight, but the other can be easily rotated a few degrees. What am I looking at there? Are those blocks supposed to be loose or tight? Do I need to adjust them???

 

[antfarmer2]

I finally got around to opening the chain-case today and bailing out the old oil, now I have a few questions: 1) Those two big disks, with the square drive, are really floppy. Not radially, but side-to-side, since they are fairly thin and have no real hub. I'm thinking those are rotors for the parking brake and I shouldn't be too concerned about them, correct? 2) The chains are fairly loose, about 2.375" from "full up" to "full down" with the other side of the chain tight. I'm talking about just the front chains, of course, the ones that are easy to see with the case cover off. Considering the size of those chains, the operating speed, and that slack is the same on both sides, I intend to leave them alone unless somebody can suggest a critical reason to fuss with them. 3) There are white plastic blocks/guides under each chain. Those blocks are each attached to a single large screw. One block is tight, but the other can be easily rotated a few degrees. What am I looking at there? Are those blocks supposed to be loose or tight? Do I need to adjust them???

The floppy disce are your brake (rotors) they are fine it sounds like someone has put the new style chain guides mine were black if the bolt is tight don't worry if the chain is not draging the bottom I would leave it alone

 

[antfarmer2]

The floppy disce are your brake (rotors) they are fine it sounds like someone has put the new style chain guides mine were black if the bolt is tight don't worry if the chain is not draging the bottom I would leave it alone

Pick it up and pull in and out on the tires there should be no movment