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743 Bobtach (oldstyle) tilt pin and bushings
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<blockquote data-quote="TriHonu" data-source="post: 35361" data-attributes="member: 897"><p>I detailed how I fixed mine by line boring in <a href="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=34932" target="_blank"><span style="color: #0000ff"><strong>THIS</strong></span></a> thread.</p><p>The most difficult problem with this repair is keeping the two holes exactly in alignment. If they are bored to the exact diameter of the pin and not in alignment by even a .001 inch the pin will not slide through both holes.</p><p>The most common fix for damaged bores in this location is torching off the ears and making a new pair and welding them back on.</p><p>Other solutions vary by what tools you have and how much time you want to spend. </p><p><a href="https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=12281" target="_blank"><span style="color: #0000ff"><strong>THIS</strong></span></a> thread tells how OldMachinist used a magnetic drill and Tazza used a rail drill to fix damaged bores on their quicktach's.</p><p>Someone else here welded theirs up and used a reamer to true up the holes.</p><p><a href="http://www.expandersystem.com/index.php?pageID=102" target="_blank"><span style="color: #0000ff"><strong>Expander Systems</strong></span></a> makes an expanding pin that is made to fix this condition. I was quoted $240 USD for a pin for my 763. </p><p>I have talked to folks who have welded them up and used a die grinder and 1/2 round file to refit the pin.</p><p>Another fix was to clamp a pin in the bore that had a small hole bored in the end. The hole was used to align the guide drill on a hole saw. Hole saw the bores oversize and have someone machine replacement bushings.</p><p>A friend of mine did the fast fix. He bought a chunk of 1 1/4 inch Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tube. The bore of this tube is about 2 thousands of an inch smaller (1.248 inches). He cut off 2 pieces about an inch long and used a brake hone to enlarge the bores to 1.250 to make two 1.250 ID bushings. He bought an upper pin (the one that is used on the other end of the tilt cylinder) that is a couple inches longer than the pin at the quicktach end. He inserted the new pin through the quicktach and tilt cylinder. He put the DOM bushings over the ends of the pin and welded them to the outsides of the quicktach ears. He has been running it that way for a couple years with no problems. Note when you weld the bushings on they will not stay in perfect alignment. As they cool they will twist a little and bind the pin. It will take a lot of heat and a sledgehammer to get the pin back out. You may have to torch one bushing off.</p><p>With any of these fixes, you should replace the rod eye bushing in the hydraulic cylinder. It is around $7.00 from Bobcat.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TriHonu, post: 35361, member: 897"] I detailed how I fixed mine by line boring in [URL='https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=34932'][COLOR=#0000ff][B]THIS[/B][/COLOR][/URL] thread. The most difficult problem with this repair is keeping the two holes exactly in alignment. If they are bored to the exact diameter of the pin and not in alignment by even a .001 inch the pin will not slide through both holes. The most common fix for damaged bores in this location is torching off the ears and making a new pair and welding them back on. Other solutions vary by what tools you have and how much time you want to spend. [URL='https://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=12281'][COLOR=#0000ff][B]THIS[/B][/COLOR][/URL] thread tells how OldMachinist used a magnetic drill and Tazza used a rail drill to fix damaged bores on their quicktach's. Someone else here welded theirs up and used a reamer to true up the holes. [URL='http://www.expandersystem.com/index.php?pageID=102'][COLOR=#0000ff][B]Expander Systems[/B][/COLOR][/URL] makes an expanding pin that is made to fix this condition. I was quoted $240 USD for a pin for my 763. I have talked to folks who have welded them up and used a die grinder and 1/2 round file to refit the pin. Another fix was to clamp a pin in the bore that had a small hole bored in the end. The hole was used to align the guide drill on a hole saw. Hole saw the bores oversize and have someone machine replacement bushings. A friend of mine did the fast fix. He bought a chunk of 1 1/4 inch Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tube. The bore of this tube is about 2 thousands of an inch smaller (1.248 inches). He cut off 2 pieces about an inch long and used a brake hone to enlarge the bores to 1.250 to make two 1.250 ID bushings. He bought an upper pin (the one that is used on the other end of the tilt cylinder) that is a couple inches longer than the pin at the quicktach end. He inserted the new pin through the quicktach and tilt cylinder. He put the DOM bushings over the ends of the pin and welded them to the outsides of the quicktach ears. He has been running it that way for a couple years with no problems. Note when you weld the bushings on they will not stay in perfect alignment. As they cool they will twist a little and bind the pin. It will take a lot of heat and a sledgehammer to get the pin back out. You may have to torch one bushing off. With any of these fixes, you should replace the rod eye bushing in the hydraulic cylinder. It is around $7.00 from Bobcat. [/QUOTE]
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743 Bobtach (oldstyle) tilt pin and bushings
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