I was using my 741 today when it started banging, and I noticed that only the left front wheel is driving, not the rear one. It does a bang bang bang when I engage the left side so I'm really concerned that its a chain issue. I have replaced lots of hoses on this but have never been in to the mechanics very far and it looks like replacing the chains/sprockets comes under the heading of "you're not using that piece of equipment this winter". Any thoughts?
741 drive problems - only one wheel drives
- Thread starter Amanaland
- Start date
It sounds like a drive chain, don't be too worried they aren't that hard. A new section of chain or even a con-link if the chain isn't damaged will get you going again. Access isn't all that easy though. You may need to remove the pump to get to the inspection plate that is under the pump, when in there get the chain out. Replace it or get a con-link and you should be good to go again. Ready in time for winter.
That's pretty much what I guessed, but not looking forward to pulling the pump - so far everything that I have done on that machine takes about 10X longer than I figured it would due to lots of rust. Would you figure on having to replace sprockets with the chains? While I'm asking, the left lever doesn't really seem to "center". The machine really wants to take off when starting and there is excessive play on the left lever compared to the right one. I fiddled with the creep adjustment and its better, but you still have to locate the LH lever with your leg when cranking on the starter. Thanks for sharing your experience/insight
Check your bushings. If you have lots of slop the steel/rubber bushings are probably worn out. There are also bearings on either side of the frame that the steering levers pivot on, these can wear over time giving slop.
The best bet is to pull the chain out, have a look at the sprockets and if they look ok, just replace the chain or install a con-link if it seems ok. Be VERY careful poking around the sprockets with your hands, they can get like razor blades, been there, done that before.....
You may be lucky enough to get far enough back with just the front inspection cover, but i don't like your chances.
There are two schools of thought for working ont he chain case. You can leave it on the machine or seperate it for ease of access. Its not as hard as you may think to remove it. Two bolts to the front of the pump, lift pivot point and the bolts on the side of the chassis, about 10 bolts/nuts. Lift the frams off the chain case and roll it out. It will give you easy access, you can even change leaky axle seals if they need to be done.
actually the slop is how far forward and rearward the levers move before they get much resistance. I don't mean its loose rotationally, like loose bearings. The Left lever travels much further than the right and the left one doesn't really find a neutral center by itself like it used to. I'm not sure what you are saying about the two schools of thought. When you talk about leaving "it" on the machine, do you mean the pump? It looks HEAVY. Can you lift the pump without disconnecting everything associated with it? I guess that I need to study the shop manual. another question, you say "lift the frams off of the chain case.." is that a typo or just a word that I don't know? Thanks Man
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I know the slop you mean, its due to wear in bushing or pivot points. Mine was the same, i have done a few that needed to have these areas tightened up.
There is a thread here somewhere that shows the procedure of how to seperate the chaincase from the main loader. You prop the pump up with a steel bar and wire to keep it from falling down.
The pump is heavy, but i have moved mine in and out on my own before, so its not THAT heavy.
