642 Ford or Mitsubishi?

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retisin

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I just purchased an older skid is a 642 so is it a Mitsubishi or Ford engine? I need an exhaust manifold for it, so im looking on Ebay and Marketplace or if anyone knows where to get a used one. Also is that mean the choke is on or off as it will only run good like this.
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I'm thinking Maybe bcuz of the cracked manifold it isn't running properly too as it's cracked bad
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Up, the choke is on.
I'm pretty sure that Is the Ford but you should make sure. I've owned both but it's been too long to remember what each exhaust looked like. The older 642 was Ford the later was Mitsubishi. If I remember correctly the Ford had the exhaust on the right and the Mitsubishi had it on the left as you are looking from the back of the machine.

Here is a link to the parts catalog. Enter your serial number to make sure of which engine you have:
 
Up, the choke is on.
I'm pretty sure that Is the Ford but you should make sure. I've owned both but it's been too long to remember what each exhaust looked like. The older 642 was Ford the later was Mitsubishi. If I remember correctly the Ford had the exhaust on the right and the Mitsubishi had it on the left as you are looking from the back of the machine.

Here is a link to the parts catalog. Enter your serial number to make sure of which engine you have:
Says not found
 
It's the Ford motor. Exhaust on right. A damn good welder could stitch that up and grind your manifold, but he'd have to be familiar with cast iron. The part number is 6559799 and is stupid expensive from bobcat. I suggest looking for used. Alternatively, you could have someone weld up a set of headers for a quarter of a cost of a new manifold. Also note the exhaust pipes are unobtainium. I had to fabricate a new set and rerouted it. I will send you a picture of my motor and exhaust later today as a reference.
 
I just purchased an older skid is a 642 so is it a Mitsubishi or Ford engine? I need an exhaust manifold for it, so im looking on Ebay and Marketplace or if anyone knows where to get a used one. Also is that mean the choke is on or off as it will only run good like this.View attachment 7937
The 642 B has the Mitsubishi engine good luck
 
It's the Ford motor. Exhaust on right. A damn good welder could stitch that up and grind your manifold, but he'd have to be familiar with cast iron. The part number is 6559799 and is stupid expensive from bobcat. I suggest looking for used. Alternatively, you could have someone weld up a set of headers for a quarter of a cost of a new manifold. Also note the exhaust pipes are unobtainium. I had to fabricate a new set and rerouted it. I will send you a picture of my motor and exhaust later today as a reference.
 

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It's the Ford motor. Exhaust on right. A damn good welder could stitch that up and grind your manifold, but he'd have to be familiar with cast iron. The part number is 6559799 and is stupid expensive from bobcat. I suggest looking for used. Alternatively, you could have someone weld up a set of headers for a quarter of a cost of a new manifold. Also note the exhaust pipes are unobtainium. I had to fabricate a new set and rerouted it. I will send you a picture of my motor and exhaust later today as a reference.
Most welders would try to use nickel rod, which would likely crack again soon due to dissimilar metal expansion and contraction, etc. Actual Cast iron rod does exist, requires use of a flux, and gas welding but most people are not familiar with it. Brazing won't stand up to the heat. No matter what manifolds can be problematic due to all the contaminants in the metal.
 
Doesn't look like the 1.6 L Ford Industrial that was in my 722. Don't know anything about Mitzi's but like I said not the same as my 1.6 L Ford's.

When I went through the 722 the exhaust manifold/muffler was NLA. Couldn't find an aftermarket or decent used one anywhere. I had it rebuilt with significant welding of cracks and milling of the head and manifold/muffler to seal the blowby from years of corrosion on each. Turned out just fine.
 
Guy tried stick welding used the right rod, he said everytime he tried getting past the one point it just kept cracking. New one is $500 guy has one shipped used for $300 I think for $200 it's worth getting a new one.
 
Guy tried stick welding used the right rod, he said everytime he tried getting past the one point it just kept cracking. New one is $500 guy has one shipped used for $300 I think for $200 it's worth getting a new one.
Welding cast iron requires heat control. Preheating the entire piece, welding and then a very slow cooldown in an oven. It is a very specialized type of welding.
 
Guy tried stick welding used the right rod, he said everytime he tried getting past the one point it just kept cracking. New one is $500 guy has one shipped used for $300 I think for $200 it's worth getting a new one.
See my earlier comments re: using cast iron rod--not stick welding with nickel rod--gas welding. Saw a You tube for"muggy rod" claims to be wonderful, but I would still use cast iron rod + cast iron flux and gas weld it. Look on YouTube for"gas welding cast iron", you might find someone who still knows how to do it . If your welder is too bull headed to gas weld, maybe try Muggy weld: . This one is also worth listening to so is also interesting: He is more knowledgeable than most welders about why cast iron is so hard to weld. But I would still use cast iron rod,
 
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