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630 - Repower
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<blockquote data-quote="peebeeaitch" data-source="post: 78513" data-attributes="member: 8318"><p><u>2014-09-13</u></p><p>The exhaust was one issue that I thought would prove vexing. The Wisconsin motor has the exhaust manifold on top of the engine, with the air cleaner remote on the left of the engine connected to it with an inlet pipe.</p><p>I specifically purchased the B&S motor with the low profile air cleaner in order that I have maximum space on top of the engine for routing the exhaust:</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-19%20SEW613477-0015.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>vs</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-19%20SEW613477-2141.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>(Both pictures are from SmallEngineWarehouse)</p><p>The mounting space in the engine bay is limited by the top cross-member, which limits the overall height of the replacement motor to 740mm. Wanting the exhaust as high above the air cleaner as possible to help prevent radiated heat distorting the cover, and to allow enough space to unscrew and remove the lid, I needed to use as much of this space as possible.</p><p>I put packers on top of the air cleaner, and placed the exhaust on it, increasing the packing height until the top of the exhaust was just shy of 740mm from the ground. I had previously bought a couple of 90 deg bends, all from 1.5" exhaust pipe. I cut the flanges off the exhaust and bolted them lightly to the engine. Because it is an inline V, the right cylinder exhaust port is a little back from the left exhaust port (seen from the back). I therefore cut the flange pipes a fixed distance from the exhaust box leaving a right flange and pipe which was longer than the left flange and pipe, but both pipes ending at the same point relative to the motor base.</p><p>Cutting the elbow sections carefully, I found that I could use one 90 deg bend and one 45 and get up to the exhaust. I tacked everything in place.</p><p>For the additional supports, I cut the originals off the motor and then fiddled around till I could find an available bolt. The best seemed to be the ones on the valve cover. After a lot of fiddling, tacking, grinding, cutting, welding, I managed to have something that I thought would work.</p><p><img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-13_02.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>I then removed and welded the contraption.</p><p> <img src="http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-13_03.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Ok, so a dumb mistake on my part was not tacking some more before adding lots of heat as the pipes pulled a little and required a mate of mine to hang on the ends in order to re-bolt the system in place.</p><p>I will take a better photo over the weekend of the completed setup.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebeeaitch, post: 78513, member: 8318"] [U]2014-09-13[/U] The exhaust was one issue that I thought would prove vexing. The Wisconsin motor has the exhaust manifold on top of the engine, with the air cleaner remote on the left of the engine connected to it with an inlet pipe. I specifically purchased the B&S motor with the low profile air cleaner in order that I have maximum space on top of the engine for routing the exhaust: [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-19%20SEW613477-0015.jpg[/IMG] vs [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-19%20SEW613477-2141.jpg[/IMG] (Both pictures are from SmallEngineWarehouse) The mounting space in the engine bay is limited by the top cross-member, which limits the overall height of the replacement motor to 740mm. Wanting the exhaust as high above the air cleaner as possible to help prevent radiated heat distorting the cover, and to allow enough space to unscrew and remove the lid, I needed to use as much of this space as possible. I put packers on top of the air cleaner, and placed the exhaust on it, increasing the packing height until the top of the exhaust was just shy of 740mm from the ground. I had previously bought a couple of 90 deg bends, all from 1.5” exhaust pipe. I cut the flanges off the exhaust and bolted them lightly to the engine. Because it is an inline V, the right cylinder exhaust port is a little back from the left exhaust port (seen from the back). I therefore cut the flange pipes a fixed distance from the exhaust box leaving a right flange and pipe which was longer than the left flange and pipe, but both pipes ending at the same point relative to the motor base. Cutting the elbow sections carefully, I found that I could use one 90 deg bend and one 45 and get up to the exhaust. I tacked everything in place. For the additional supports, I cut the originals off the motor and then fiddled around till I could find an available bolt. The best seemed to be the ones on the valve cover. After a lot of fiddling, tacking, grinding, cutting, welding, I managed to have something that I thought would work. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-13_02.jpg[/IMG] I then removed and welded the contraption. [IMG]http://www.thesouthpole.co.za/bobcat/BloodSweatAndTears/2014-09-13_03.jpg[/IMG] Ok, so a dumb mistake on my part was not tacking some more before adding lots of heat as the pipes pulled a little and required a mate of mine to hang on the ends in order to re-bolt the system in place. I will take a better photo over the weekend of the completed setup. [/QUOTE]
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