320E fuse and relay for quick tach

[mam19582]

For the life of me, I can’t find the quick tach fuse on my 320E. It certainly is not where the manual says. I lifted the cab and the enclosed steel box appears to have relays in it. Before I start to cut all the tie wraps that hold those relays secure, I’m pretty sure I should be looking for a 30 amp fuse. I repaired the broken harness from the actuator and that works fine when throwing 12 volts into it. I have the men temporarily jumping it to attach and detach the attachments. Any help locating the fuse would be much appreciated. The switch does have a light and I am also betting it is not broken. When the harness broke and the wire broke, I’m counting that the fuse blew. My next move was to see if any juice is getting to the switch. Thx ahead.

 

[mam19582]

For the life of me, I can’t find the quick tach fuse on my 320E. It certainly is not where the manual says. I lifted the cab and the enclosed steel box appears to have relays in it. Before I start to cut all the tie wraps that hold those relays secure, I’m pretty sure I should be looking for a 30 amp fuse. I repaired the broken harness from the actuator and that works fine when throwing 12 volts into it. I have the men temporarily jumping it to attach and detach the attachments. Any help locating the fuse would be much appreciated. The switch does have a light and I am also betting it is not broken. When the harness broke and the wire broke, I’m counting that the fuse blew. My next move was to see if any juice is getting to the switch. Thx ahead.

I'm replying to myself. I guess nobody on this forum ran into this problem. I found a video of a 333 skid on tiktok with burnt out relays in that steel enclosed box with a bunch of tie rapped relays that I mentioned above. I'm going to the shop, pop the cab , open that box up and hope I find that the relays are burnt from the cut wire on the actuator harness. If anyone cares, I'll post back. Until then, there goes my Sunday...

 

[mam19582]

I'm replying to myself. I guess nobody on this forum ran into this problem. I found a video of a 333 skid on tiktok with burnt out relays in that steel enclosed box with a bunch of tie rapped relays that I mentioned above. I'm going to the shop, pop the cab , open that box up and hope I find that the relays are burnt from the cut wire on the actuator harness. If anyone cares, I'll post back. Until then, there goes my Sunday...

Problem solved. Replaced relays that were in the enclosed steel box.

 

[RedNeckMike]

I am glad you solved your issues.
As an electrician I know trouble shooting can be a real pain.
Especially on poorly maintained equipment.
I use dielectric grease on most electrical connections. I find it really helps up north here where they use salt and chemicals
all winter on the roads, and winter here is not a 3 month season, usually November to March minimum.

 

[Sapientoni]

Almost anytime problems of a new kind occur, it's from something that just happened, or something that was just repaired, or changed. If you're lucky, only a directly related second problem occurs. Like a fuse. Burning up unrelated, but close proximity components is frustrating. Congrats on your success. Corrosion problems can cause secondary down the line issues. An old experienced friend of mine had intermittent starter problems. He changed the starter and it seemed to go away, but a few months later, probably wet weather, it happened again. After I changed it, it still wouldn't start and he was saying I didn't hook the wires up correctly. I took pics of the wiring and the 3 wires were pretty self placing anyhow. The highly places ignition switch fed 2 fused circuits with screw twist fuse holders. Both were corroded, but lights were working on the one, but the other was dead. Replaced both holders and put the old starter in the parts room marked "good 743 starter".

 

[mam19582]

Although I’ve been working on heavy equipment most of my life, I’m closing in on 68, after testing every fuse, relays, what have you, I put everything back together, bolted down the cab, knowing all tested good with the quick attach, I started her up, pushed the hydraulic unlock switch and no release on the hydraulics. Popped up the cab, opened the enclosed box to find out when testing everything, I put the fuse look alike diodes in backwards. Hit my self in the head calling myself an idiot, put them back in the right way, flow of the arrow, and sealed her back up, all was good. This post is for anyone wondering what those fuse looking diodes are. One way flow for the current. There will not be continuity if u thought they were fuses. Thanks for the replies on my original post guys. Mike M