2005 S175 Draining Battery

[rjprice]

Love this forum. Just bought a used 2005 Bobcat S175 w/1400 hrs to use on my land. This is my first Skid steer but I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Here is the issue: I went to start the loader the other day (it had been sitting for several days) and the battery was too weak to turn it over. I removed the battery and charged it fully and when I re-installed it I decided to check for current draw. When I disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and hook up a test light between the negative terminal of the battery and the negative battery cable, it lights up which indictes a current draw (with the key off). I removed the POS terminal from the alternator and the other plug to see if it was possibly the cause. The test light still indicated a draw. Anyone have any ideas of what to check? I could not find any obvious shorts.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

so far done all the right things. being as you new about the test light means you got some game, start by removing fuses one at a time to isolate circut, next same with realays wich are interchangble, ive been there and done this many times so a couple a places to look, 1 stuck switch pwr relay 2 dome light circut 3 mouse hous in head liner 4 two prong back of alt has wires reveresed, (check schmatic and confirm) by dissonect one at time will narrow down, light goes out theres youre problem, a tricky situation to solve is a bad conntroller. 2005 quite possibly a non potted(snap together lid) versus a potted (black goo poured around connectors) .if non potted probally issue. a hard hit at 800 bucks and will need programed by dealer in unit. another thing before we go any further did batt get load checked did you do a specific gravity test? still should not light a test light ,will show a draw on meter for memory but not a light.

 

[rjprice]

so far done all the right things. being as you new about the test light means you got some game, start by removing fuses one at a time to isolate circut, next same with realays wich are interchangble, ive been there and done this many times so a couple a places to look, 1 stuck switch pwr relay 2 dome light circut 3 mouse hous in head liner 4 two prong back of alt has wires reveresed, (check schmatic and confirm) by dissonect one at time will narrow down, light goes out theres youre problem, a tricky situation to solve is a bad conntroller. 2005 quite possibly a non potted(snap together lid) versus a potted (black goo poured around connectors) .if non potted probally issue. a hard hit at 800 bucks and will need programed by dealer in unit. another thing before we go any further did batt get load checked did you do a specific gravity test? still should not light a test light ,will show a draw on meter for memory but not a light.

Thanks for the reply. I'm using an LED test light so a small draw like for memory may light it. I made the initial test with a 12v flashlight bulb, too and it still lit up. I pulled each fuse and relay and re-tested using the LED. The light never went out. I'm going to try it again using the 12v test light. I load tested the battery after charging it and it tested good. Where is the switch pwr relay? I looked at the dome light but did not see anything out of place. I figured if I pulled the fuse for this circuit, It would make the light go out. To eliminate the alternator, do I need to remove the ground wire, too? I pilled the plug and disconnected the + wire but not the - wire to test it. Another question; what is the box bolted to the inside of the engine compartment just above the battery? It has some teleshone type wire, one of which is not connected. Can't seem to find this box in the parts manual.

 

[rjprice]

Thanks for the reply. I'm using an LED test light so a small draw like for memory may light it. I made the initial test with a 12v flashlight bulb, too and it still lit up. I pulled each fuse and relay and re-tested using the LED. The light never went out. I'm going to try it again using the 12v test light. I load tested the battery after charging it and it tested good. Where is the switch pwr relay? I looked at the dome light but did not see anything out of place. I figured if I pulled the fuse for this circuit, It would make the light go out. To eliminate the alternator, do I need to remove the ground wire, too? I pilled the plug and disconnected the + wire but not the - wire to test it. Another question; what is the box bolted to the inside of the engine compartment just above the battery? It has some teleshone type wire, one of which is not connected. Can't seem to find this box in the parts manual.

OK Weird. Using a 12v test light, it does not light now and shows no current draw. Using the LED it still lights up. Maybe the current for the memory is enough to light the led. It sort of sparks when I touch the cable to the battery terminal.

 

[Bobcatdan]

OK Weird. Using a 12v test light, it does not light now and shows no current draw. Using the LED it still lights up. Maybe the current for the memory is enough to light the led. It sort of sparks when I touch the cable to the battery terminal.

All fuses and relays are in the fuse box between your legs. There should be a decal inside showing which is which. As for a spark are the connections, in my opinion, a tiny little arch is normal. I have seen so many do that and have not problems, I never worry about it. I would check draw with with a meter. As long as you are not over 50 or so milliamps, it should be fine. What if you disconnect the battery for a couple days, does it stay up?

 

[rjprice]

All fuses and relays are in the fuse box between your legs. There should be a decal inside showing which is which. As for a spark are the connections, in my opinion, a tiny little arch is normal. I have seen so many do that and have not problems, I never worry about it. I would check draw with with a meter. As long as you are not over 50 or so milliamps, it should be fine. What if you disconnect the battery for a couple days, does it stay up?

Thanks for the reply. I had the battery disconnected for a couple of days and it ran down from around 12.7v to 12.3v today when it would not start. It recharged quickly. I tested my current draw and with my digital meter set on 200mA the reading is 1.1. Is that 1.1 milliamps? I know it is supposed to be less than 50 milliamps. Does that look ok? I also had this weird black box in my engine compartment. I removed it and took it apart and it was a "ruggedized Lojack." My loader was a rental so that makes sense.

 

[Bobcatdan]

Thanks for the reply. I had the battery disconnected for a couple of days and it ran down from around 12.7v to 12.3v today when it would not start. It recharged quickly. I tested my current draw and with my digital meter set on 200mA the reading is 1.1. Is that 1.1 milliamps? I know it is supposed to be less than 50 milliamps. Does that look ok? I also had this weird black box in my engine compartment. I removed it and took it apart and it was a "ruggedized Lojack." My loader was a rental so that makes sense.

I think your battery is junk, how old is? Equipment manufactors oem batteries have reinforce plates in them to help aginst vibration, number 2 killer of batteries. Car batteries seem to last 3-4 years. Bobcat battieries I have seen last over 8 years.

 

[rjprice]

I think your battery is junk, how old is? Equipment manufactors oem batteries have reinforce plates in them to help aginst vibration, number 2 killer of batteries. Car batteries seem to last 3-4 years. Bobcat battieries I have seen last over 8 years.

Bought a Bobcat (Exide) battery today. $15 more than the Walmart battery. So the milliamp draw looks normal?

 

[Bobcatdan]

Bought a Bobcat (Exide) battery today. $15 more than the Walmart battery. So the milliamp draw looks normal?

I honestly never checked what a bobcat will draw, never had a reason. 50 miliamp is a generic car parastic draw rate. If you are only getting 1.1 miliamps, I think you are fine. Just wondering, did you ever check charging voltage.

 

[rjprice]

I honestly never checked what a bobcat will draw, never had a reason. 50 miliamp is a generic car parastic draw rate. If you are only getting 1.1 miliamps, I think you are fine. Just wondering, did you ever check charging voltage.

I checked the charging voltage and it was 14.3v.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

I checked the charging voltage and it was 14.3v.

BCD got game //battt is in question specific grav test is in order. suck it up buy oem. 15 bucks does not equal 15 hrs down time. batt and alt is heart of sys, my exepanice has shown a direct correlation between ,low sys volts and smoked conntrollers(hi amp draw = smoked controller) hope its not too late..

 

[rjprice]

BCD got game //battt is in question specific grav test is in order. suck it up buy oem. 15 bucks does not equal 15 hrs down time. batt and alt is heart of sys, my exepanice has shown a direct correlation between ,low sys volts and smoked conntrollers(hi amp draw = smoked controller) hope its not too late..

I agree. I bought the Bobcat battery and even replaced the + cable (it was not the right one anyway). I re-tested for parasitic drain (1.1 Milliamps) and re-checked the charging system which measured 14.0v. I think it's all good now. I just bought this thing and I am doing all the fluids and generally fixing anything I find that needs it.