2000 463

[skayser2]

Am curious how many hours the smaller Kubota (16.5 hp) is good for. I do nothing but snow removal (sidewalks) with it running a 48" blower, push broom and 4' bucket. I bought it new in 2000 and have about 550 hours on it now. Also, how about the drive belt. It looks good so far but wondering when I should change it. Thanks

 

[skayser2]

I guess it's an 03-04 machine not a 2000. It has the small 722 Kubota. I know 600 hrs is not allot but just wondering what to exspect as far as belt and engine life. Thanks

 

[OldMachinist]

I guess it's an 03-04 machine not a 2000. It has the small 722 Kubota. I know 600 hrs is not allot but just wondering what to exspect as far as belt and engine life. Thanks

I have almost 2000 hrs on my Kubota 722 and its still running strong. The drive belt has been changed. I did that when I had the engine pump assemby out to fix a hydraulic leak. I should have paid more attention to the belt idler pulley then because its starting to make a little noise. So to answer your question these engines should run 4000 hrs easy with proper care but I would consider replacing the drive belt and pulley every 1250-1500hrs.

 

[skayser2]

I have almost 2000 hrs on my Kubota 722 and its still running strong. The drive belt has been changed. I did that when I had the engine pump assemby out to fix a hydraulic leak. I should have paid more attention to the belt idler pulley then because its starting to make a little noise. So to answer your question these engines should run 4000 hrs easy with proper care but I would consider replacing the drive belt and pulley every 1250-1500hrs.

Hey thanks for the response......now I have an idea on when and what to look for. Can I ask where the hydraulic was on you machine?

 

[Tazza]

Hey thanks for the response......now I have an idea on when and what to look for. Can I ask where the hydraulic was on you machine?

Kubota's usually do 6,000 hours if you care for them. Around that mark they start to get hard to start.

 

[OldMachinist]

Hey thanks for the response......now I have an idea on when and what to look for. Can I ask where the hydraulic was on you machine?

The hydraulic leak was the suction hose for the pump was loose and sucking air. It's in a real bad place to get to behind the battery area and between the engine and chaincase. It was easier to pull the whole assemby than beating my knuckles bloody trying to get to it plus I got to clean all the junk out that acumulates in and under the engine and pumps. I'll be pulling it all out again soon to replace the idler pulley. I figure its a three to four hour job.

 

[bobcat1505]

The hydraulic leak was the suction hose for the pump was loose and sucking air. It's in a real bad place to get to behind the battery area and between the engine and chaincase. It was easier to pull the whole assemby than beating my knuckles bloody trying to get to it plus I got to clean all the junk out that acumulates in and under the engine and pumps. I'll be pulling it all out again soon to replace the idler pulley. I figure its a three to four hour job.

if your idler shaft is ok you can replace the pulley with out removeing engine and pump assembly.

 

[skayser2]

if your idler shaft is ok you can replace the pulley with out removeing engine and pump assembly.

Thanks for a great info- the reason I ask about your leak location. I noticed a small oil spot on the floor under the center of the machine last week. I haven't had time to look for it yet but will try and shag it down at the end of the season. Thanks again

 

[Iowa Dave]

Just keep an eye on belt--it should get to looking bad before it breaks. Always inspect/most likely change the idler/tensioner at the same time or you will soon be broke down again. Occasionally the idler will last quite a bit longer than the belt, but not usually. Are you changing the oil often? They only hold 3-3.5 qts. I change every 50 hrs. Do you fire it up without plugging it in/keeping it in a heated place when REALLY cold? The rest of the machine will be ready for scrap before the Kubota dies. Change your chaincase oil--most likely milky from the snow if you aren't doing it every year or 2. I'd be more worried about that than the engine. Are you changing the hyd filter every year? I'd also change the hyd oil every 2 yrs or so. Is you antifreeze original? I'd change it every 2 or 3 yrs as well. Working in snow is hard on hyd oil and chaincase oil--somehow it eventually ends up contaminated with water. Grease the bobtach pins OFTEN--a couple times a day or so in a long day. Do all the stuff I suggested and you will never wear it out at the pace you are going.

 

[OldMachinist]

Just keep an eye on belt--it should get to looking bad before it breaks. Always inspect/most likely change the idler/tensioner at the same time or you will soon be broke down again. Occasionally the idler will last quite a bit longer than the belt, but not usually. Are you changing the oil often? They only hold 3-3.5 qts. I change every 50 hrs. Do you fire it up without plugging it in/keeping it in a heated place when REALLY cold? The rest of the machine will be ready for scrap before the Kubota dies. Change your chaincase oil--most likely milky from the snow if you aren't doing it every year or 2. I'd be more worried about that than the engine. Are you changing the hyd filter every year? I'd also change the hyd oil every 2 yrs or so. Is you antifreeze original? I'd change it every 2 or 3 yrs as well. Working in snow is hard on hyd oil and chaincase oil--somehow it eventually ends up contaminated with water. Grease the bobtach pins OFTEN--a couple times a day or so in a long day. Do all the stuff I suggested and you will never wear it out at the pace you are going.

Bobcat1505 even if it was possible to get to the idler to change it on mine I think it would take about the same amount of time as pulling the motor. You can barely see the idler the struggle to reach it and fight it out isn't worth it for me. And it will give me a chance to clean it all out again. I use this machine alot in the woods maintaining trails and hauling out tree trunks for firewood so it gets alot of sticks and leaves with mud in it all the time.

 

[skayser2]

Just keep an eye on belt--it should get to looking bad before it breaks. Always inspect/most likely change the idler/tensioner at the same time or you will soon be broke down again. Occasionally the idler will last quite a bit longer than the belt, but not usually. Are you changing the oil often? They only hold 3-3.5 qts. I change every 50 hrs. Do you fire it up without plugging it in/keeping it in a heated place when REALLY cold? The rest of the machine will be ready for scrap before the Kubota dies. Change your chaincase oil--most likely milky from the snow if you aren't doing it every year or 2. I'd be more worried about that than the engine. Are you changing the hyd filter every year? I'd also change the hyd oil every 2 yrs or so. Is you antifreeze original? I'd change it every 2 or 3 yrs as well. Working in snow is hard on hyd oil and chaincase oil--somehow it eventually ends up contaminated with water. Grease the bobtach pins OFTEN--a couple times a day or so in a long day. Do all the stuff I suggested and you will never wear it out at the pace you are going.

Thanks Dave.......Yeah, I change the oil and filter twice during the winter season. I have changed the hyd filter a few times so far as well as the fuel filter. I wasn't aware of the moisture in the chain case and hyd oil but will give them my full attention this spring. It sits in my unheated garage all winter and never outside. This year I did install a frost plug heater and changed the anti-freeze. Boy did that make a difference starting just plugging in a few hours before starting!! This winter in Minnesota has been pretty cold. Much easier on the machine. So far the belt looks fair and haven't noticed any unusual idler noise. When it's time, I'll change both. Good advise. It might be a good idea to have them on hand just in case. I try not to use it much at all during the summer as it's main purpose is sidewalk cleaning during the winter. An average snowfall requires about 16 hours of use. I don't grease her enough though. The pins are starting to rattle alittle. I'll improve. I have noticed the last several years that when I cycle the arms allot (lift and tilt) I get a bypassing (hissing) sound from the hyd system (intermittent). I don't get it when just running the blower. I also notice the tilt ram wants to extend alittle when first starting up (cold). I also notice that when the arms are up high and the tilt ram is extended I have very little power with the tilt ram lift and a delayed retract. This all might have something to do with moisture in the hyd system as you noted. I'll be changing the hyd oil and chain case oil ASAP. Thanks again...If you have anymore ideas...I'd like your input.

 

[Iowa Dave]

Thanks Dave.......Yeah, I change the oil and filter twice during the winter season. I have changed the hyd filter a few times so far as well as the fuel filter. I wasn't aware of the moisture in the chain case and hyd oil but will give them my full attention this spring. It sits in my unheated garage all winter and never outside. This year I did install a frost plug heater and changed the anti-freeze. Boy did that make a difference starting just plugging in a few hours before starting!! This winter in Minnesota has been pretty cold. Much easier on the machine. So far the belt looks fair and haven't noticed any unusual idler noise. When it's time, I'll change both. Good advise. It might be a good idea to have them on hand just in case. I try not to use it much at all during the summer as it's main purpose is sidewalk cleaning during the winter. An average snowfall requires about 16 hours of use. I don't grease her enough though. The pins are starting to rattle alittle. I'll improve. I have noticed the last several years that when I cycle the arms allot (lift and tilt) I get a bypassing (hissing) sound from the hyd system (intermittent). I don't get it when just running the blower. I also notice the tilt ram wants to extend alittle when first starting up (cold). I also notice that when the arms are up high and the tilt ram is extended I have very little power with the tilt ram lift and a delayed retract. This all might have something to do with moisture in the hyd system as you noted. I'll be changing the hyd oil and chain case oil ASAP. Thanks again...If you have anymore ideas...I'd like your input.

Bobcat tells you to somehow suck the oil out. This is a joke. Take the cast weight off the front of the loader, and drill a hole at the bottom front of the chaincase. Once oil is drained out(jack up the back of machine and you will get it drained clear out---way better than you could ever get it sucked out), thread the hole and fit a drain plug in it. Put a little wet paint on the plug, and set the weight back on the machine to mark where the plug hits the weight. Remove the weight and drill a hole in it just deep enough for the head of the plug. Then you are all set. If this seems like a hassle, I guarantee you can do this modification faster than draining with the suction method, and next time you just "pull the plug". I have done this to all my machines, but only the 463 has the weight on front to deal with. I was taught this trick by a local dealer, who said chaincases tend to get serviced better if they are easy to drain. unsure about your hydraulic Gremlins--never had those particular ones. Too bad about the bobtach pins, common problem and hard to fix--just grease bobtach a lot from now on. I'm sure you know they are to have propylene glycol antifreeze-not ethylene glycol. You can't mix them, but I guess it is prob ok to switch them over IF you can get ALL the old stuff out. Mixing the 2 results in poorer heat dissipation and a slimy film that plugs up stuff.

 

[skayser2]

Bobcat tells you to somehow suck the oil out. This is a joke. Take the cast weight off the front of the loader, and drill a hole at the bottom front of the chaincase. Once oil is drained out(jack up the back of machine and you will get it drained clear out---way better than you could ever get it sucked out), thread the hole and fit a drain plug in it. Put a little wet paint on the plug, and set the weight back on the machine to mark where the plug hits the weight. Remove the weight and drill a hole in it just deep enough for the head of the plug. Then you are all set. If this seems like a hassle, I guarantee you can do this modification faster than draining with the suction method, and next time you just "pull the plug". I have done this to all my machines, but only the 463 has the weight on front to deal with. I was taught this trick by a local dealer, who said chaincases tend to get serviced better if they are easy to drain. unsure about your hydraulic Gremlins--never had those particular ones. Too bad about the bobtach pins, common problem and hard to fix--just grease bobtach a lot from now on. I'm sure you know they are to have propylene glycol antifreeze-not ethylene glycol. You can't mix them, but I guess it is prob ok to switch them over IF you can get ALL the old stuff out. Mixing the 2 results in poorer heat dissipation and a slimy film that plugs up stuff.

Thanks for the advise on the chaincase. That will be the first thing on my agenda in a few weeks. Drill, tap and plug. Good idea. Yeah, I drained all the anifreeze out of it and switched to ethylene. It wouldn't drain from the getgo- petcock was plugged. I preassureized the system to make sure I got most if not all the propylene out of it through the drain hose. Will drain and flush it again this spring just to be on the safe side. Its a great machine for what I use it for, alittle underpowered at times, but overall, fine. I do about 10 square blocks of city sidewalks and a dozen or so small driveways. I have the soft enclosure but would like to find a used hard door sometime. Can't justify the cost of a new door. Thanks again!!