1997 New Holland LX665 (another electrical post)

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
So, I have searched lots of threads and done lots of checks but I am far from an electrical guru. My issue is I am not getting power to the fuel pump (Purple/orange wire). All fuses are good. I had this problem before and it just miraculously went away. With the machine in the RUN mode, I can run a direct power wire to the pump from 12v and it it will function. I can then start the machine and operate it. If you switch to SERVICE and turn the key to on I get an immediate ERROR 02 and machine will not start. I checked the #4 pin on the EIC and it is showing no power with the key in any position. From what I have read, the EIC provides the power to the fuel pump, therefore, that wire should be powered up when the key is turned on. In the past, as soon as you turn the key to ON the fuel pump would kick on an run. I had read that certain codes would shut off fuel to prevent engine damage. The oil level is good and I removed one wire from the charge pressure sensor to see if that would change anything to no avail. At this point I suspect a faulty EIC (gray lined) but wanted to throw this out there before I shell out that $$$.
 

SkidRoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Ugly problem.... Have you inspected all of the harnesses for chaffing / broken wires? Don't know what else to suggest...
 
OP
OP
A

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
Ugly problem.... Have you inspected all of the harnesses for chaffing / broken wires? Don't know what else to suggest...
I have inspected what I can get to relatively easy. I have not checked the hard parts yet so if there is a short Im sure it will be there.
 

mrbb

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
494
I would also suggest checking all connections and even inside the fuse holders for corrosion
I had a some what like issue a few yrs back
and it was a corrosion that was causing low voltage
fused all checked out top be good, but it just wasn't getting enough power thru things

removed and cleaned all things added electrical grease and was good for several yrs
BUT then, last yr I started having issue's with starting this time, and it ended up being a bad battery disconnect switch, , it wasn't allowing a good flow thru to things?/
SO I replaced that and been good so far, this is the third battery disconnect in 7 yrs, apparently they don;t hold up well !
so some food for thought for you!
 
OP
OP
A

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
I would also suggest checking all connections and even inside the fuse holders for corrosion
I had a some what like issue a few yrs back
and it was a corrosion that was causing low voltage
fused all checked out top be good, but it just wasn't getting enough power thru things

removed and cleaned all things added electrical grease and was good for several yrs
BUT then, last yr I started having issue's with starting this time, and it ended up being a bad battery disconnect switch, , it wasn't allowing a good flow thru to things?/
SO I replaced that and been good so far, this is the third battery disconnect in 7 yrs, apparently they don;t hold up well !
so some food for thought for you!
That is a good suggestion. It has been an outside machine since new. I did notice the EIC randomly getting dim when I was attempting to start it. I had some corrosion on the battery terminals that I cleaned and made sure battery was charged. I will check the fuse boxes and grounds next.
 
OP
OP
A

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
***SOLVED***
So, finally got time to follow the suggestion of mrbb and check for corrosion at all the connections. I turned the key on and no fuel pump. I removed the 2 bolts holding the fuse block and run/service switch mount and dropped it down. I as I was moving the entire mount around to look into the back of the fuse block I heard the fuel pump come on and go off. As I manipulated the mount the pump would cut on and off. I then moved both wires going to the fuel pump fuse and low and behold, found the issue. Upon removing the fuse and looking into the terminal I found that one of the rounded ends of the terminal that holds the fuse had broken off causing intermittent connection. When I would check the fuse with a meter, I would inadvertently push the fuse in and cause it to make connection and show power on both sides. When I removed the probe, the fuse would drop down and lose connection. This has been the story of my life with electrical stuff. I went ahead and removed the service/run switch and took it apart and cleaned it. For anyone not familiar with removing that switch, the mount is separate from the switch. The actual switch clips into the mount. You cant get the switch out when they are attached. Also, if you take the switch itself apart, do it carefully on a bench. There are 3 spring loaded pins in one side and 3 tiny copper connection plates that will all fall out when it comes apart.
 

mrbb

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
494
***SOLVED***
So, finally got time to follow the suggestion of mrbb and check for corrosion at all the connections. I turned the key on and no fuel pump. I removed the 2 bolts holding the fuse block and run/service switch mount and dropped it down. I as I was moving the entire mount around to look into the back of the fuse block I heard the fuel pump come on and go off. As I manipulated the mount the pump would cut on and off. I then moved both wires going to the fuel pump fuse and low and behold, found the issue. Upon removing the fuse and looking into the terminal I found that one of the rounded ends of the terminal that holds the fuse had broken off causing intermittent connection. When I would check the fuse with a meter, I would inadvertently push the fuse in and cause it to make connection and show power on both sides. When I removed the probe, the fuse would drop down and lose connection. This has been the story of my life with electrical stuff. I went ahead and removed the service/run switch and took it apart and cleaned it. For anyone not familiar with removing that switch, the mount is separate from the switch. The actual switch clips into the mount. You cant get the switch out when they are attached. Also, if you take the switch itself apart, do it carefully on a bench. There are 3 spring loaded pins in one side and 3 tiny copper connection plates that will all fall out when it comes apart.
glad you found the issue, always nice when you know something is found and corrected
and its always nice when someone comes back and gives a ending to the problem so others can learn from things

I again recommend adding dielectric grease to every connection you can , it does help keep things going longer! IMO~
 
OP
OP
A

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
Agreed. I cleaned all the terminals on the run/service switch as well as the manual glow plug switch and coated all of them with dielectric grease. I am going to clean up the fuse block and solenoid connections in the engine compartment for good measure.
 
OP
OP
A

ap5152

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
11
Update: If anyone needs a replacement fuse block (inside cab) this appears to be compatible. Dorman 85668 from Oreillys.
 

Attachments

  • F16EB05E-C6E5-478A-BC39-FA8C0E1CAB12.jpeg
    F16EB05E-C6E5-478A-BC39-FA8C0E1CAB12.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 79

Latest posts

Top