I have run a jumper wire from the positive post to the battery to the fuel solenoid and it starts, but the tilt foot pedal is locked in position. They lift pedal works fine. I have checked the fuses in the cap. I have checked the fuses in the firewall area. All are OK. I changed relay on the firewall still will not start. It starts for a second with the original wire hooked to the solenoid, and there is no voltage at that wire and it will run if I keep the key in the crank position as soon as I let off of the key it stops I removed the dash panel. Everything looks good there there’s no cut wires no mice evidence same for the ignition switch area very clean in there. What other place should I look for? Is why the solenoid is not getting any voltage. And why is the right pedal locked? L, it will crank with a seatbelt unfastened. When I run the jumper wire from the positive Post of the battery to the fuel solenoid it starts right up, but again the right pedal does not work and a seatbelt is unfastened. Any help appreciated
1996 Lx885 won’t start ! I have run a jumper wire for the positive Post of the battery to the fuel solenoid and it
- Thread starter don1
- Start date
there is a seat and a seat belt safety switch in most LX models, so maybe one of the switches are not working properly,as them not working can effect the foot petals from working, starting too I believe!
also, have you tried putting machine in service mode to see if that changes anything>>?
and could it be your key switch itself that is bad? they do fail fairly often
My old LX went thru 3 of them in 10 yrs with LIGHT use, seems a lot of junk being made any more in both aftermarket and OEM side of things these days!
also, have you tried putting machine in service mode to see if that changes anything>>?
and could it be your key switch itself that is bad? they do fail fairly often
My old LX went thru 3 of them in 10 yrs with LIGHT use, seems a lot of junk being made any more in both aftermarket and OEM side of things these days!
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- Jun 27, 2024
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First of all, what machine type, ie make/model, etc.
Most machines I am familiar with have a 2-prong connector (one each) for both the seat and seat belt switches.
Swap the connectors and see if your solenoid and pedal lockout also changes
I am guessing it will, if so; first suspect would be the fuse, in testing your fuse did you draw current through it or just a visual check? If visual, connect it to a test light and validate current is passing through the fuse, more than once I have had a fuse that looked good, but wasn't.
- 2nd - a bad switch
- 3rd - an electrical short, but, if so, problem should not change with connector swap, and the short "should be between the switch and the 1st locked out component.
Good Luck
Most machines I am familiar with have a 2-prong connector (one each) for both the seat and seat belt switches.
Swap the connectors and see if your solenoid and pedal lockout also changes
I am guessing it will, if so; first suspect would be the fuse, in testing your fuse did you draw current through it or just a visual check? If visual, connect it to a test light and validate current is passing through the fuse, more than once I have had a fuse that looked good, but wasn't.
- 2nd - a bad switch
- 3rd - an electrical short, but, if so, problem should not change with connector swap, and the short "should be between the switch and the 1st locked out component.
Good Luck
