Ok. I'm new to here and have seen this issue many times. But, I'm still lost. And will repeat the question according my my situation. When I am seated, the seat belt light comes on. When I fasten the seat belt the light stays on and the skid will not start. But, it will start in service mode. If I watch the lights on the black brain box, when I sit is the seat the seat light and the timer light both come on. When I fasten the seat belt, the timer light goes out and the belt light comes on. When I turn the switch on. The solenoid light does not come on, nor does the starter light. Mean while. During this process, if another person runs a test light on the solenoid located on the right aide wall of the motor compartment. Everything has juice except for the bottom side of the solenoid. And just under that are two smaller wires and also have no juice. Any help would be greatly Appreciated. A mechanic I am not. But trying my best to fix it.
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Something new this morning. Went out to work on skid. Sat in the seat, seat belt light came on. Hooked seat belt and light went out. Skid started right up. When I unhooked the belt the light came back on. All seemed great. when I hooked the belt back up again the light went out. But this time when I unhooked the belt. The light did NOT come back on. Skid operated as it should. Drove the skid steer about 1/2 mile to garage to work on it. Unhooked the belt and when I hooked it back up again. Light stayed on.
Ok. Just tested the two prong plug to the seat belt. Sitting in the seat. Seat belt light comes on and have power going through the plug on one side. Hook up the seat belt and seat belt light stays on. But have power on both wires on the two prong seat belt plug.Something new this morning. Went out to work on skid. Sat in the seat, seat belt light came on. Hooked seat belt and light went out. Skid started right up. When I unhooked the belt the light came back on. All seemed great. when I hooked the belt back up again the light went out. But this time when I unhooked the belt. The light did NOT come back on. Skid operated as it should. Drove the skid steer about 1/2 mile to garage to work on it. Unhooked the belt and when I hooked it back up again. Light stayed on.
Just another update. At times when sitting in the seat I can hear a humming sound. During that time I can hook the seat belt up and the seat belt light goes out. All is good. But other time when I sit, I hear no humming noise and when I hook the seat belt. The light will not go off. So I am assuming it is one of the seat safety switches at are bad??? Any thoughts ? I removed the dart and both safety switches. To me, the toward the back of the seat may smell as if it may have gotten hot. But hard to tell. Again. Any thoughts?Ok. Just tested the two prong plug to the seat belt. Sitting in the seat. Seat belt light comes on and have power going through the plug on one side. Hook up the seat belt and seat belt light stays on. But have power on both wires on the two prong seat belt plug.
Last update. And if nothing else, this one man forum may help someone else. I ended up cutting the wires at the seat safety switches and bringing the wire harness out from under the seat. Added a toggle switch. Works great now. Made a small bracket to mount the toggle. While I was at it I did the same on the seat belt safety switch. Although I bypassed the safety switches, Please keep in mind we ALL need to use the safety beat when running equipment. Even though I don't in all equipment. I always do in a skid steer and anything with tracks lol. Hope all this will help someone out there.Just another update. At times when sitting in the seat I can hear a humming sound. During that time I can hook the seat belt up and the seat belt light goes out. All is good. But other time when I sit, I hear no humming noise and when I hook the seat belt. The light will not go off. So I am assuming it is one of the seat safety switches at are bad??? Any thoughts ? I removed the dart and both safety switches. To me, the toward the back of the seat may smell as if it may have gotten hot. But hard to tell. Again. Any thoughts?
Was working fine. And again, Activate the seat and belt light stays on when belt is activated with no humming sound. If I keep activating the seat a few times, I get whatever it is to hum and seat belt light goes out when belt is activated. So, any clues to what is making that humming noise? Does it need replace? or something? Anyone?Last update. And if nothing else, this one man forum may help someone else. I ended up cutting the wires at the seat safety switches and bringing the wire harness out from under the seat. Added a toggle switch. Works great now. Made a small bracket to mount the toggle. While I was at it I did the same on the seat belt safety switch. Although I bypassed the safety switches, Please keep in mind we ALL need to use the safety beat when running equipment. Even though I don't in all equipment. I always do in a skid steer and anything with tracks lol. Hope all this will help someone out there.
I thought the issue was just a bad belt switch, but as you by-passed that and it still plays up, it can't be that or if it is, it's not the only issue.Was working fine. And again, Activate the seat and belt light stays on when belt is activated with no humming sound. If I keep activating the seat a few times, I get whatever it is to hum and seat belt light goes out when belt is activated. So, any clues to what is making that humming noise? Does it need replace? or something? Anyone?
Not sure what the hum could be, i'm wondering if it could be a warning buzzer that is sad or if that noise is an electrical one caused by a bad connection, sort of like the connection arcing.
Hopefully Mike10 will respond, he knows NH machines
Tazza, thanks for your post. It is greatly appreciated. Got in the skid tonight to do a couple things that needed done. Worked great. Well, worked great this time. I too would think that humming sound would be a bad thing. But like I said. It only starts with that noise. Without the hum, she is a no start. Still hope it's something simple and right in front of me. Hope to mess with it more this weekend to find that noise. Just hope it's not the control module. Cheaper than a new skid but more than a 12 pk.I thought the issue was just a bad belt switch, but as you by-passed that and it still plays up, it can't be that or if it is, it's not the only issue.
Not sure what the hum could be, i'm wondering if it could be a warning buzzer that is sad or if that noise is an electrical one caused by a bad connection, sort of like the connection arcing.
Hopefully Mike10 will respond, he knows NH machines
maybe you could use a mechanics stethoscope to listen around to pinpoint the noise.Tazza, thanks for your post. It is greatly appreciated. Got in the skid tonight to do a couple things that needed done. Worked great. Well, worked great this time. I too would think that humming sound would be a bad thing. But like I said. It only starts with that noise. Without the hum, she is a no start. Still hope it's something simple and right in front of me. Hope to mess with it more this weekend to find that noise. Just hope it's not the control module. Cheaper than a new skid but more than a 12 pk.
I hope it's not the controller as well.maybe you could use a mechanics stethoscope to listen around to pinpoint the noise.
Sorry, i read it as the buzzing meant it wouldn't start, A stethoscope is a good idea actually. If you can hear where the noise is coming form, you can get an idea of the device that is getting power that may not be in the fault condition.
Hopefully it's just a bad connection, be it a fuse/connection or relay.
Yes Foton, Tazza. I believe we may even have one of those. That's if I can find it. On the plus side of this whole mess. When I do figure this out, should know the old skid better and may even be able to assist someone else one day. Even as frustrating as this is. In the end I know it will be satisfying to know I fixed it. That in itself is worth something,lolI hope it's not the controller as well.
Sorry, i read it as the buzzing meant it wouldn't start, A stethoscope is a good idea actually. If you can hear where the noise is coming form, you can get an idea of the device that is getting power that may not be in the fault condition.
Hopefully it's just a bad connection, be it a fuse/connection or relay.
Ran the skid most of the weekend. Guessing around 10 hours, in and out of it many times. The toggles seem to be working without a flaw. Still haven't tracked down the humming, as rain will be moving in mid week and have to get a few more things done before it hits. When I bring it back into the garage and find it. I'll post again.Yes Foton, Tazza. I believe we may even have one of those. That's if I can find it. On the plus side of this whole mess. When I do figure this out, should know the old skid better and may even be able to assist someone else one day. Even as frustrating as this is. In the end I know it will be satisfying to know I fixed it. That in itself is worth something,lol
Because I don't feel I should use colorful wording on here. I'll go with "WELL DARN". Skid steer has been working great. But today as I was running it. The set belt light came on and the hydraulics stopped working and again, won't start back up. Again, no humming sound. Again, seat belt light will not go out. Again, no start.Ran the skid most of the weekend. Guessing around 10 hours, in and out of it many times. The toggles seem to be working without a flaw. Still haven't tracked down the humming, as rain will be moving in mid week and have to get a few more things done before it hits. When I bring it back into the garage and find it. I'll post again.
It's soundling like there is a bad connection somewhere, i'm hoping it's not the computer but there is a chance it is.Because I don't feel I should use colorful wording on here. I'll go with "WELL DARN". Skid steer has been working great. But today as I was running it. The set belt light came on and the hydraulics stopped working and again, won't start back up. Again, no humming sound. Again, seat belt light will not go out. Again, no start.
Ok. Here is what I know. Isn't much lol. With no humming noise ( I believe it's the control module. It will not start. I tested the wires going through the toggle switch that replaced the seat switches. I have 12v. Than tested the wire that goes from the diode Resistor to the control module and have 12v. It's my understanding that from the diode should be 12v. Now if I can get that humming to start again, I'll retest that wire to see if it is than 3v. Not sure, but at this point I am now leaning towards the diode is bad. Maybe??It's soundling like there is a bad connection somewhere, i'm hoping it's not the computer but there is a chance it is.
Sorry. Meant to say. It's my understanding that from the diode to the control modular should be 3 VOk. Here is what I know. Isn't much lol. With no humming noise ( I believe it's the control module. It will not start. I tested the wires going through the toggle switch that replaced the seat switches. I have 12v. Than tested the wire that goes from the diode Resistor to the control module and have 12v. It's my understanding that from the diode should be 12v. Now if I can get that humming to start again, I'll retest that wire to see if it is than 3v. Not sure, but at this point I am now leaning towards the diode is bad. Maybe??
I'm not sure wha the diode is used for in this circuit, but if it's abd, it shgould be bad.Sorry. Meant to say. It's my understanding that from the diode to the control modular should be 3 V
A diode is like a one way valve, most multi meters have a diode test function. With the probes from one side to the other, you should get .6v
Tazza. I agree. If the diode is bad, it's bad and should not work intermittently. So now thinking that is not the problem. However. I was able to do a volt test in the dark this morning and here is what I have, as far as the diode is concerned. At this time I believe that humming sound is the control box. So with NO humming noise, the battery reads 12.4v, going to the diode is 11.1v and leaving the diode is 11.1v. And it will not start. Now, when I do hear the humming. The battery reads 12.4v, going to the diode is 12.4v and leaving the diode to the control box is 10.6v. And it starts right up. Maybe the control box is bad? I do have a question. On the right side of the motor compartment is a solenoid and next to that are two circuit breakers. "If" one of those go the the control box. Could/would it be bad and on occasion mess up the voltage? If not I would think it's the control box ( logic box ) is going bad. But if it is bad, would it work intermittently or just be bad all the time. Thanks for your help.I'm not sure wha the diode is used for in this circuit, but if it's abd, it shgould be bad.
A diode is like a one way valve, most multi meters have a diode test function. With the probes from one side to the other, you should get .6v
I'm not sure why they used a diode resister. I think the seat switches are nothing more than to send signal to the control box to tell it there is someone on the seat . Not sure why they didn't use straight 12v like they did with the seat belt. Instead. The volts must drop 1.4 to 1.6 volts for the control box to recognize It. Anyway, it's my understanding that if the volts are to high or to low nothing works. In this case the 10.6v is in the right range of voltage. Not sure all of this is fact. But is what I have pick up via online.Tazza. I agree. If the diode is bad, it's bad and should not work intermittently. So now thinking that is not the problem. However. I was able to do a volt test in the dark this morning and here is what I have, as far as the diode is concerned. At this time I believe that humming sound is the control box. So with NO humming noise, the battery reads 12.4v, going to the diode is 11.1v and leaving the diode is 11.1v. And it will not start. Now, when I do hear the humming. The battery reads 12.4v, going to the diode is 12.4v and leaving the diode to the control box is 10.6v. And it starts right up. Maybe the control box is bad? I do have a question. On the right side of the motor compartment is a solenoid and next to that are two circuit breakers. "If" one of those go the the control box. Could/would it be bad and on occasion mess up the voltage? If not I would think it's the control box ( logic box ) is going bad. But if it is bad, would it work intermittently or just be bad all the time. Thanks for your help.
