You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
It depends if its the starter or just the solenoid or switch.
Check the back of the starter, there should be a large cable coming from your battery and there should be a smaller wire that goes to the key switch or solenoid. Get a piece of wire and touch between the +ve to the battery and the small wire on the back of the starter. If it jumps into life its either your key switch or a bad solenoid between the switch and starter (cheap to fix).
Check the back of the starter, there should be a large cable coming from your battery and there should be a smaller wire that goes to the key switch or solenoid. Get a piece of wire and touch between the +ve to the battery and the small wire on the back of the starter. If it jumps into life its either your key switch or a bad solenoid between the switch and starter (cheap to fix).
Sorry Tazza, I'm in fact talking about the (STATOR). The charging system doesn't work. Have to hook a battery charger to it to start and can't run for to long.It depends if its the starter or just the solenoid or switch.
Check the back of the starter, there should be a large cable coming from your battery and there should be a smaller wire that goes to the key switch or solenoid. Get a piece of wire and touch between the +ve to the battery and the small wire on the back of the starter. If it jumps into life its either your key switch or a bad solenoid between the switch and starter (cheap to fix).
Sorry, i must have figured it was a typo.Sorry Tazza, I'm in fact talking about the (STATOR). The charging system doesn't work. Have to hook a battery charger to it to start and can't run for to long.
No doubt its located behind the fly wheel? nice and easy to get at.......
I'm not sure what they use for a rectifier on these but if its like my rider mower it has a diode or 2, they could be burnt out?
Worst case, you could get an electric motor winding person to re-wind it for you.
The only other option you have is to mount an alternator to it, but that is assuming there is a pulley on the front of the engine you can attach a bet to.....Sorry, i must have figured it was a typo.
No doubt its located behind the fly wheel? nice and easy to get at.......
I'm not sure what they use for a rectifier on these but if its like my rider mower it has a diode or 2, they could be burnt out?
Worst case, you could get an electric motor winding person to re-wind it for you.
On my OMC 1700 the stator was bad and could not find another so I wound my own. Took all of 2 hours which was how long it would have taken to look for one. Always worked after that. Also check your rectifiers and regulator, what seems to be a stator is often in either module.
If your Dad's machine does in fact have a stator verses an altenator (not familiar with this particular machine) here are a couple things to check before you tear into it too deep:On my OMC 1700 the stator was bad and could not find another so I wound my own. Took all of 2 hours which was how long it would have taken to look for one. Always worked after that. Also check your rectifiers and regulator, what seems to be a stator is often in either module.
1) Check the two wires coming from behind the flywheel for voltage. If memory serves correctly this should be between 28 and 32 volts ac with engine running wide open throttle(wot). (This is for a Kohler engine, but I believe the principle is the same regardless of make).
2) If no ac voltage across the stator wires check for shorts in the wiring where they exit from behind the flywheel, if wires are OK, you likely need a new stator (but don't overlook the flywheel magnets).
3)If above checks out OK then test output voltage at the rectifier/regulator, should be 12-14 volts dc at wot. If this checks out OK then your problem is likely either in your wiring or ignition switch (check for corroded/burnt terminals)
4) Still nothing? Here comes the crappy part ( before spending money that is) check and clean all grounds and connections, generally speaking these are very durable components and usually don't fail with-out outside intervention (hooked up jumper cables bass ackwards etc) where-as corrosion is common. Often times replacing a part appears to fix it, but in fact all that happend is ground contact was re-established during replacement (been there done that (more than once actually) nothing like spending good money after bad).
Hopefully this helps some and with luck, saves you a little coin in the process.
Don
