1845C starting issues-a history

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

jfpointer

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
2
Just sharing some experiences we've had with getting our old 1845C to start consistently. It had issues from the day we bought it--sometimes it would start right up, other times it would do absolutely nothing. No lights, no crank, nada. We started with the battery, as the old one seemed weak and didn't really want to take a charge. The challenge here was getting it out with the lift arms down. Turns out it's possible, just barely, if you remove the muffler. The + cable was also a bit raggedy at the post end, so I put a new connector on it. That worked for a while, although it made the cable short enough that the ends of the wire kept pulling out of the connector when the battery moved (the hold-down is long gone on this machine). So, new cable. Things improved a bit. Next, we had to tackle some wiring issues. There's a bundle of wires, whether any of it is still in its original configuration or not, I cannot say, on the right side of the machine. After prolonged exposure to the elements, the fuse holders needed replacement, along with the fuses that kept blowing. While doing that, it was obvious that the wire that had been used when replacing the fuse holders at some past point were significantly undersized, so we replaced a bunch of 16 AWG with 8 AWG while installing the new fuse holders. This all worked pretty well except for the one I didn't crimp correctly that ended up pulling out of the crimp connector. During this process, every wire end and fuse terminal was coated with dielectric grease as this machine does still sit outside. Things improved a bit more. At this point, it was getting fairly reliable, although it would often fail to start after running for a while. When that happened, a jump start was usually sufficient. I took that to mean a charging failure, which an internet search confirmed as a distinct possibility. The same search also turned up the tidbit that the regulator is easily replaceable and includes new brushes. $20 later for a new regulator and it seems the starting issues are behind us. When I pulled the old regulator/brush combo, the brushes were worn down to damn near nothing. The new ones were closer to 3/4".
 

Phil314

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
102
I've got an 1845c that has also had some start issues. Most of the time it would start, but occasionally I'd just get a click. It got worse over time. A couple things I did. 1. Replaced the solenoid plunger and contacts on the start. I've heard this is sometimes a cause. It didn't solve my start issue, but it's worth a check. 2. I replaced the ignition switch. I was skeptical of this, but it was like night and day. Completely solve my starting issues. Cheap and simple, well worth doing on older machines.
 
OP
OP
J

jfpointer

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
2
I've got an 1845c that has also had some start issues. Most of the time it would start, but occasionally I'd just get a click. It got worse over time. A couple things I did. 1. Replaced the solenoid plunger and contacts on the start. I've heard this is sometimes a cause. It didn't solve my start issue, but it's worth a check. 2. I replaced the ignition switch. I was skeptical of this, but it was like night and day. Completely solve my starting issues. Cheap and simple, well worth doing on older machines.
Hopefully these two posts will help people out at some point if they run into issues. How hard was the switch to replace? Mine never seemed to be part of the problem so I never really looked at what it would take to get it out of the little black box it's in and replace it.
 

Phil314

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
102
Hopefully these two posts will help people out at some point if they run into issues. How hard was the switch to replace? Mine never seemed to be part of the problem so I never really looked at what it would take to get it out of the little black box it's in and replace it.
Replacing the switch took me about 20 minutes. Unbolt the instrument panel. Then there is one 7 seven pin connector on the back of the switch. Then remove the threaded collar holding the switch in. Reverse the order to install the new one. I really doubted the switch being the problem, but it was a night and day difference in how the machine started. Strangely, on my machine I can replace the battery without removing the muffler. Just slide it back and tip it up on end a bit and it lifts right out.
 
Top