1835b shuts off randomly like some one turning key

[Jay1835b]

Hey all,

Looking for some guidance. Recently picked up a 1985 Case 1835b gas engine skidsteer with 3300 hours and has been sitting for the last 9 years. It was used only 50 hours in the last 20 years. It seemed to start and run fine when I looked at it. Once I get it home it proceeds to shut off randomly. Sometimes after 5-10minutes maybe 15, other times after 1 or 2 minutes. When its running it runs good and is strong. Just shuts off on its own frequently. I have looked through a number of things but I am at the point of needing some extra ideas. I have replaced the engine oil and filter as I was getting a low oil pressure light on the cluster. This is resolved. I have also verified the fuel shutoff solenoid is working, at least with the key on/off i can hear/feel it clicking. It has no problem starting up. From what I understand is that there may be a second coil to hold it open while running, but I don't now how to verify that. I was going to just try to remove the solenoid, and plug the hole and see if that helps and it stays running. It has a Zenith B75-22 solenoid in it with one wire. Don't know if that is oem or not.

I have also cleaned any corrosion from all of the sensor connections for the hydraulics, air , and oil....

Like i mentioned when it runs it runs great, moves great, lifts strong and quick, doesn't act rich or lean or starving for fuel. Doesn't really sound like there is intermittent spark or sputtering, sounds pretty smooth as far as I can tell. Just shuts off. Anyway just thought I'd see if anyone here had some thoughts they could share. Has some minor hydraulic leaking from bucket cylinders and what seems to be oil leaking from the outer valve guide tubes on the cylinder head. Otherwise it seems like a clean machine.

Thanks in advance for anything you can offer.

Jay

 

[foton]

I know nothing about that case made engine, you need to determine if it is a electrical problem or a fuel related issue, it could just be a bad key switch going open and cutting off power to the coil which I assume it has. A little more info. and we can speculate about problems further.

 

[Jay1835b]

I believe I have narrowed it down to a bad ballast resistor for the coil. When i had it running i check the spark on all plugs. Everything looked good. Then moved around some wire by the coil and it stumbled. The qire from the harness to the reistor before the coil was stressed. Move the wire and it will shut off. Tab on the resistor seems loose and maybe not getting good contact. Coil writing in outside says to use a 067 resistor. It has been difficult to find a cross reference for the part.

 

[foton]

I believe that chrysler back in the 70ies used a external resistor on their ingitions even the electronic module ones or use a internally resisted new 12 volt coil. I think resistors were to drop the voltage into the coil to make the points last longer. this might be a easy cheap fix.

 

[mikelv]

Try just cleaning and tightening the connections on the resister first. If you can cause the problem by moving the wire the resistor is probably fine. I am not an expert on points systems but pretty sure the symptoms of a bad resistor are more like it starts fine but soon as you let go of the key it stops.

 

[Gearclash]

I believe those fuel shut off solenoids on the carburetors were notorious for going bad. I have been around an 1835B gas most of my life and those solenoids never lasted. They got replaced by a "will fit" nut and needle screw off another carburetor. That engine is a Case 148G and is a very durable little engine. The machine I mentioned above has around 14,500 hours on the original engine, never had the head or oil pan off.

 

[Jay1835b]

Thanks for the replies. The connection to the resistor was tight wasn't moving when I moved the wire. What did move was the tab coming out of the resistor. So I imagine the connection inside the block is broken. I have not taken it apart to verify. I found something that measured with a similar resistance when the internal part was actually making contact and I'm starting there.

And Gearclash. Thanks for your input too. Been trying to find as much information on these 1835b skidsteers. I picked up a 3/8×24 thread brass plug from advance auto for 3 bucks. That plugged it well and helped me give up on the solenoid being my particular problem. at the moment it works. A side question...this 148g motor has some oil seaping out which seems to come from the outer tube for the valve guides. Seen this before?

 

[Gearclash]

That oil seepage is typical. As long as all it does not do more than seep I would leave it alone. Head work gets expensive quick.

I've have both the gas and the diesel version of the 1835B. The diesel will outwork the gas easily, and use very little fuel, but the gas is a smoother cleaner running engine and if in good tune will start without begin plugged in at temps well below 0 F. The diesel is cold blooded, needing a tiny sniff of ether or a block heater at temps near freezing or below.

 

[Jay1835b]

I have attached a picture of the wet oil valve guide tubes... can't see anything dripping or running actively out from anywhere exactly. Just gets wet like this after it's been running. I am going to clean it up and see if I can get a better sense of where it's stemming from but seems like where the tubes meet the top of the head.