LX885 2 speed drive seal replacement

Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

Help Support Skidsteer:

Eb76adam

New member
Joined
Jun 22, 2026
Messages
4
Hi all, working on a new to me machine. After a lot of pressure washing I’ve located the main source of a fluid leak. The seal under the arm in the first pic is the culprit. Arm seams to be seized to the output/input shaft. Hesitant to beat on it knowing what it’s connected to. Can I safely heat it to break up the adhesion?
According to the parts diagram there is a square key under the arm that interfaces with the shaft - there a trick to this? Currently just using the claw of a hammer to pry it up but it’s not moving. Soaked with PB blaster for 24 hrs. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5890.jpeg
    IMG_5890.jpeg
    709.9 KB
  • IMG_5891.jpeg
    IMG_5891.jpeg
    1.1 MB
  • IMG_5892.png
    IMG_5892.png
    1.3 MB
I fought this battle many years ago. Going off memory.....I made a puller plate out of 3/8" (maybe 1/2") steel. It had a slot cut into it from one side so I could slide it under the arm. Of course, the slot has to be tight enough to grab the welded lip of the arm. Then, I had 3 tapped hole (3/8"?) in the plate for bolts to push down against the plate and up on the arm. It worked. I can't remember if the shaft was keyed plus tapered or not.
Heating....you may get away with it if you don't have to get it extremely hot. You're gonna replace the seal already. Maybe look at the parts breakdown to see if the shaft rotates on needle bearings and not plastic sleeve bushing. Have fire extinguisher handy.
 
I fought this battle many years ago. Going off memory.....I made a puller plate out of 3/8" (maybe 1/2") steel. It had a slot cut into it from one side so I could slide it under the arm. Of course, the slot has to be tight enough to grab the welded lip of the arm. Then, I had 3 tapped hole (3/8"?) in the plate for bolts to push down against the plate and up on the arm. It worked. I can't remember if the shaft was keyed plus tapered or not.
Heating....you may get away with it if you don't have to get it extremely hot. You're gonna replace the seal already. Maybe look at the parts breakdown to see if the shaft rotates on needle bearings and not plastic sleeve bushing. Have fire extinguisher handy.
Great idea - I was on my way to that - trying to figure out how to repurpose a pulley puller - but hadn’t gotten there yet. Sounds like a winner. I’ll give it a shot. Thank you!
 
One down one to go.

Had to go at it from a few different angles and it bent the 3/8” plate before it let loose but it’s off. The shaft does look tapered and it and the square key were pretty corroded - hence all the drama. Working on the arm at the front of the machine next as that seal appears to be leaking as well.

Of course that means a different tool - different shape and access means the first one can’t be reused…

Thanks again Shanmar for the advice!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5899.jpeg
    IMG_5899.jpeg
    820 KB
  • IMG_5900.jpeg
    IMG_5900.jpeg
    579.3 KB
For anyone else - here are a couple more pics of the arms and shafts they were connected to. I was able to use a 2 jaw puller on the front arm due to its different shape. It was just as seized.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5910.jpeg
    IMG_5910.jpeg
    1.2 MB
  • IMG_5911.jpeg
    IMG_5911.jpeg
    1.2 MB
  • IMG_5912.jpeg
    IMG_5912.jpeg
    1.3 MB
  • IMG_5905.jpeg
    IMG_5905.jpeg
    939.2 KB
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.

Latest posts

Back
Top