L555 with no Engine Project

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Dragos28

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2026
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Hey, so i may be crazy and this may just be a waste of time.
But i picked up this L555, traded a Walther P22 that i've had sitting in my safe for over 15 years for it.
The skid steer has really good almost new tires, so if nothing else I can scrap it and sell the tires, or even pull the pumps.

But I would like to save it from the scrap yard.
I have a vanguard v-twin engine sitting around that i'll try and hook up to the pump and see if it runs.
if so, then I can give it more love or decide what to do with it.

Getting it home was just a little bit sketchy, took the back roads and kept it under 40

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And the engine i have laying around. it may be too underpowered, we'll see...
 
One concern i have, and maybe its because there might not be any oil in the system. but the wheels rolled freely when we pulled it with the bobcat... is that a bad sign?
 
One concern i have, and maybe it’s because there might not be any oil in the system. but the wheels rolled freely when we pulled it with the bobcat... is that a bad sign?
If the hydraulic system is “open”, meaning hoses unhooked, then there would be no resistance and the motors will move freely with or without oil. However, this also means that moisture and dirt has a way into the system.
 
If the hydraulic system is “open”, meaning hoses unhooked, then there would be no resistance and the motors will move freely with or without oil. However, this also means that moisture and dirt has a way into the system.
is there a way to flush it?
 
is there a way to flush it?
You could try to flush them but that may just push the crud deeper and then create wear inside the pumps and motors. It all depends on how much time and money you have for this project.

I love watching Diesel Creek on YouTube and he fires up real old equipment all the time and gets everything working again and only rebuilds if necessary.

For the pump, you could completely remove all of the old hoses and then hook up an oil tank and see if you could spin the pump and see what comes out. For the drive motors you could do something similar and spin the tires to run the oil through.

The proper way would be to remove the pumps and motors and try to rebuild them, cleaning out everything. Time consuming, sometimes expensive but very fulfilling when the job is complete and everything works.

You could also try to find a good hydraulic shop that is capable of rebuilding the pumps and motors.

It all depends on you really. I’ve always loved tearing things down and rebuilding them as long as I can take my time and the parts I need are available.
 
you're right. its all going to come down to time and money.
i'll take it one step at a time and get the engine and linkage to the pump figured out. fire it up and see what the hydraulic system tells me.
I dont have any experience with hydraulic systems but i'll pick up the service manual for this unit and read up on it.
 
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I will add, that if there are any hoses disconnected, I would fully remove them and try to flush them out with something(diesel fuel, kero, or likes, or even soaking them with it, by adding caps to hose ends and filling and letting soak , amazing how thick dirt and or **** can get in things, so just running cleaner thru might not remove )
then blowing compressed air and repeat at least once, as if any hose was off any length of time, as stated water or who know s what could have got into the hose, and once you re attach, it can defeat anything you did to clean other things(pumps motors and so on)
, I would also do my best to inspect all tanks, before adding any new fluids, and replacing any and all filters!

good luck and keep the post coming with what you find and do
I'm sure many here will enjoy seeing the process!
 
Thanks. I ordered the service manual and some linkage to hopefully connect my engine to the pump. In the meanwhile ill decrease and pressure wash it so I can see what im working with. Probably get a few cans of penetrating lube to get everything soaking.
 
Got her home, ill degrease and pressure wash it when I get some free time and its not 30 degrees
It looks like its complete. There is hydraulic fluid in the reservoir and its clean.
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in the 2nd picture above, on the drive motors, there are sprockets on either one. I'm sure the service manual will tell me, but i'm curious what those are for. are they supposed to be attached to something on the inside of the cab?

and in the last picture, there is a hard pipe in the lower left corner that is not attached to anything, and an open fitting after the larger filter just to the right of it.

I'm assuming those are for the hydraulic setup and are why its freely spinning.

I did put a channel lock on the hydraulic pump and it spun freely
 
go easy on the pressure washer, there know to force water into places it shouldn;'t be

al,l the more so on older things with aged seals and gaskets

me personally I don't use them any more

just soak with good de-greaser and garden hose off

also helps if you scrap off the heavier stuff first or after and repeat!
 
Found this website that obviously sells parts, but they have amazing schematics and diagrams of all the systems. This is great, i'm sure it along with the service manual will really help me understand all the hydraulic systems. like what those two open ports were for, they connect to the oil radiator that i actually have. So one step closer!

https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/n...cription/030-030-oil-cooler-filter-asn-712165
 
Yes Messicks is an outstanding source of info and parts for NH machines, as they started out basically next to the NH factory yrs ago, and are now a multi location business!

over the decades I have used them many times and always found them very polite and helpful with info and getting parts

they STILL have many older techs that still know the older equipment, which is not easy to do any more,
most places only know the modern stuff

however sadly, these older techs that know the older stuff are not going to be around much longer I, there retiring and well, the new replacements just don't have there skills and hands on knowledge, as just weren't born or around the older equipment! , and few folks with old stuff, take it into dealers for repairs
or worse, many dealerships don't even want to work on older things !
so, yeah, hold onto there info, you may need it, HAHA!~
 
The sprockets are the "parking brake" the "bar" just below and behind them is pulled into the sprockets when you set the brake to physically lock them, can be a pain to get adjusted correctly, but highly recommend taking the time to ensure they work.
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As to the hard pipe in the last picture, I would bet it goes to an "oil-cooler" for the hydraulics.

Which come to think of it, would be a hurdle if you go forward with the electric motor as the engine fan provides the air movement for both it and the radiator.
 
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The sprockets are the "parking brake" the "bar" just below and behind them is pulled into the sprockets when you set the brake to physically lock them, can be a pain to get adjusted correctly, but highly recommend taking the time to ensure they work.View attachment 10603
Thanks! that makes sense! and it does move, i just didnt realize what its function is.
 
As to the hard pipe in the last picture, I would bet it goes to an "oil-cooler" for the hydraulics.

Which come to think of it, would be a hurdle if you go forward with the electric motor as the engine fan provides the air movement for both it and the radiator.
i actually have the radiator and the other hard line that goes to the radiator. i'll have to assemble it and see what it's missing. it seems like there is still a missing component... i'm sure once i get the service manual i'll find out.
 
Electric fans will work.
I'm leaning more towards the gas engine right now and seeing how/if it runs and if its terribly gutless i'll have to weigh the options of just getting a bigger drop in engine or an electric setup. i do like that if it were electric it would just always be ready to go (being charged) no more having to worry about engine issues.
 

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