Recent content by dfb

Disconnecting battery is the way we do it in the automotive field. I know of LOTS of guys that have caused very expensive problems welding on vehicles with the battery connected.

I found them extremely helpful and knowledgeable when I was having drive motor problems and would not hesitate to call them again.

On my 742B I put the rear wheels up on blocks, filled a garden sprayer with diesel{kerosene works good too} and hosed all the internal components down through the front access cover, working from rear to front. Before beginning I drilled and tapped a hole low in the front vertical wall of the...

I had all 4 bearings on my 742B changed by an independent Bobcat repair guy because I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to remove and work inside the rear access cover which is almost completely covered by the hydrostatic pump. On the 753 in the video the pump is not blocking that rear...

Good needle and seats is a problem. They do not stand up to alcohol in the fuel. You may need to use actual fuel pressure from your pump or another source to accurately test the needle and seat sealing properly. The info is on this site somewhere, I remember buying 2 kits to do the carb on my...

As previously mentioned, there are companies out there making aftermarket fuel injection systems if that is the direction you wish to go. The system would be sized by engine displacement. Howell systems are based off GM Throttle Body Injection {TBI} units. These systems are reliable as a...

In the automotive Industry, I have been taught that green is not a a good choice for diesels from a cavitation stand point. I would use something specifically intended to be inside a diesel engine.

I would also suspect vacuum leak or problem with carb. Very simple method of checking for lean running condition is to remove air cleaner and lightly cover top of carb with your hand or a rag slowly restricting airflow. If it is lean the rpm will increase. I would first check it at idle. Another...

Just to add to the conversation, I am restoring my 2nd old, carbureted 6 cyl Pontiac engine with the exhaust and intake manifold on the same side. I am having the exhaust manifold ceramic coated to keep the heat in the exhaust and reduce the heat rejection into the engine compartment.

Can you be specific about what your rich/lean vapor lock issues are?

Do you have a wiring diagram you can share for the starter circuit?

Just for reference, in the automotive world, any parasitic draw over .05 amps is considered excessive. A 4.5 amp draw is a lot. Can you locate a shop that rebuilds starters and alternators in your area? I have better luck with local rebuilders than over the counter "rotating electrical"...

Pulling a vacuum to fill a cooling system works great for systems that are tough to "burp", I use a kit made by Airlift and it works everytime. A word of caution using it though, I only use it with new water pumps. In my experience, many older pumps have come back leaking soon after pulling a...

If it got stuck after it was pulled forward, maybe trying tapping it back in the opposite direction to free it up. try rotating it while tapping it back. the balls inside the coupler body may have gotten jammed up. Feel free to soak it down with your favorite penetrating oil.

You could try looking up the crankshaft part # with the Model and Spec numbers, then searching the part number for more details like Diameter, keyed , tapered, etc. I remember doing this ages ago on microfiche. Lots can happen over the years....like the blower housing with the model number info...