Recent content by craigb93

It should look just like the JIC fitting on the top of the pump. The hard line like the pump line,L and the blown line like the end of the ell on the pump,R. Use a mirror to confirm. Squeeze a pair of open end wrenches together to loosen. -Dick

Pretty easy to check both the fuel pick-up and electric pump with a small temporary gas can for a tank.Place it under the air cleaner so the pump has to work up hill.

Physically remove the solenoid. Get a new brass fitting that matches the thread in the carb bowl on one end and a barbed male hose on the other. New fuel line and clamps to finish it.

The solenoid at the carburetor is installed part for potential roll-over protection and part for anti-dieseling.. If you use ethanol content fuel it going to be prone to stick. My machine sits for weeks at the time and had the problem. Using ethanol-free fuel will go a long way toward solving...

Can't help you on the bolt length except that Tazza has it right about a suitable length. The real deal is bobcat made a replacement spring and cup washer that is far superior to the OE. Can't get bound up with mud like to original due to the replacement being a larger diameter.. Try to find one...

Write the original hours on the inside of the access door. Even if it is off a bit it is better than nothing to be able to keep up with other wear items. If you are really nerdy you can connect a 9-V. battery to your new Meter and let it run on the bench until the hours are close, then install.

As I noted up-thread years ago, plain 30 wt oil is the correct lube. The governor was made by Hoof.Maybe some information is still on-line. There was a service and maintenance article at one time.

It hasn't been mentioned but you should obtain a full engine gasket set that includes front and rear Crankshaft Seals and Valve Stem Seals. At this age all of these will be too hard/brittle to not leak. Especially if it has run hot. You will need a Valve Spring Compressor. Rentable locally I am...

As far as smoothing the head and block surfaces you are best to start with a 12" medium mill bastard file. Just press the file down with palm of your hand. It will highlight any low/high spots and get the residual sealer, etc off. McMaster- Carr will ship overnight or second day. If you...

Remove the bottom plate on the Oil Pump. See if it will turn over so you have a new flat side. Failing that, lap the original side flat with a sheet of wet-dry sandpaper placed a piece of Lexan window pane. The little half-moon wear mark you see will reduce pump performance quite a bit. Just wet...

Slip off the old rings and then spend whatever time it takes to remove the accumulated carbon to get the pistons really clean. A Ring Groove Cleaning tool is best and not so expensive. A wire brush on a bench grinder will work well IF you are careful to Not round over the ring groove edges. The...

A little too late now but you should have cleared the tops of the bores with a ridge reamer before pushing out the pistons. It is very easy to break the second ring lan if there is much carbon build-up or bore wear at the tops. Do have a knowledgeable inspection of this area for damage. Replace...

Impact wrenches are all fine and I own several but........a 12 point combination wrench will probably clear the hub enough that a sharp rap with a ball peen hammer will break the bolts loose. Probably won't even need to hold the flywheel. Mine had not been removed in 30 plus years and came...

All 700 series machines need a Starter that is in top condition because of the combined load of engine, hydraulic pump and cooling fan. I installed an electric fuel pump 15 years ago after the ethanol fuel would eat up the OE fuel pump diaphragms in a few months. Also the fuel pump cam lobes...

Last time I looked for points I matched them up by taking in an old set. Turns out they were VW points. Go by the cap color. Brown fits my 742 w/ a Bosch dist.