743 auxiliary is weak

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greenweenie

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Sep 27, 2016
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Hello every one. long time reader first time posting. Thanks for all the posts i was not apart of but have helped me. I own a 743 bobcat. I picked up a used wood splitter (home made). When i try and use it, it just hits the log and stops. Ive tried going back and forth a few times with the engine at medium and full speed. no go on the splitting. I have a grapple bucket and that works good i think. Meaning it grabs logs but isn't what i would call a hard clamp down. Tractor condition: my seals are weeping a bit for my loader arms and bucket. Have no drive issues that i know of. Goes forward and backwards as i command. Fluid is at top side of window. Was gonna change the filter but thinking its something more Any ideas would be great. Thanks.
 
To know for sure, you need to hook up a pressure gauge to an aux coupler and operate the hydraulics, you should get about 2,400 - 2,600 PSI. If it's low, your relief is in need of adjustment or you need a new pump.
Get the pressure checked, then you know for sure that it's all up to spec.
 
Thanks, is that something i have to haul it to the dealer or is that tool something i can build/buy myself myself. If there is a tool out there i wouldn't be afraid of getting it. It will take me a couple hours and hundreds bucks from the closet dealer just to get the test. Ive read other people test them selves but don't know what tool I'm looking at. Thanks
 
Thanks, is that something i have to haul it to the dealer or is that tool something i can build/buy myself myself. If there is a tool out there i wouldn't be afraid of getting it. It will take me a couple hours and hundreds bucks from the closet dealer just to get the test. Ive read other people test them selves but don't know what tool I'm looking at. Thanks
If you get hold of a 3,000 to 5,000 PSI gauge you can test it your self.
You need to work out a way of connecting the gauge to the quick coupler. So you can either buy another coupler and get fittings to match the threads to the gauge. You want it to dead head the flow and see what it gets to. Use whatever mix you need to get the two to join together. You can remove a hose to the splitter and get fittings to match that end.
If you talk to a hydraulic fitting place, they can tell you what you need. Take in a quick coupler from the splitter and the gauge, say make these work!
 
If you get hold of a 3,000 to 5,000 PSI gauge you can test it your self.
You need to work out a way of connecting the gauge to the quick coupler. So you can either buy another coupler and get fittings to match the threads to the gauge. You want it to dead head the flow and see what it gets to. Use whatever mix you need to get the two to join together. You can remove a hose to the splitter and get fittings to match that end.
If you talk to a hydraulic fitting place, they can tell you what you need. Take in a quick coupler from the splitter and the gauge, say make these work!
I have extra ends so i can do that. Do you have a link to what type of gauge or where to buy? And what do i want the pressures to be once i get it rigged up? Is this what i would be looking for in a gauge? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_357745_357745 Thanks again.
 
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I have extra ends so i can do that. Do you have a link to what type of gauge or where to buy? And what do i want the pressures to be once i get it rigged up? Is this what i would be looking for in a gauge? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_357745_357745 Thanks again.
Yes, that is one you need. This one will work also.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Air-Pneumatics/Pressure-Gauges/Pressure-Vacuum-Gauges/5000-PSI-2-5-LF-BM-PRESSURE-GAUGE-21-1799-L.axd
Tazza mentioned the pressure you need in post #2
If the gauge won't fit the quick connect,Just take your gauge and quick connect to your local plumbing supply and buy the adapters to make it work. Doesnt have to be pretty, just functional.
 
Yes, that is one you need. This one will work also.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Air-Pneumatics/Pressure-Gauges/Pressure-Vacuum-Gauges/5000-PSI-2-5-LF-BM-PRESSURE-GAUGE-21-1799-L.axd
Tazza mentioned the pressure you need in post #2
If the gauge won't fit the quick connect,Just take your gauge and quick connect to your local plumbing supply and buy the adapters to make it work. Doesnt have to be pretty, just functional.
Sounds like you have the parts to do the job. 2,400-2,600 PSI is a number i have in my head, it may not be exact, but close. Newer machines can go over 3,000. Some people bump it up a little higher to get more lifting power out of it, but if you go too far you can blow old hoses or worst case, damage the pump.
 
Sounds like you have the parts to do the job. 2,400-2,600 PSI is a number i have in my head, it may not be exact, but close. Newer machines can go over 3,000. Some people bump it up a little higher to get more lifting power out of it, but if you go too far you can blow old hoses or worst case, damage the pump.
After testing i have 2450 psi. Sound about right? I only tested one side. Do i need to take the other end and test that? So if the psi is in range. does that mean my GPM is correct also? And if all is well with my tractor does that make my wood splitter bad? cylinder is not leaking and it goes thru the motion with out wood. Any Ideas? Thanks, Nate
 
After testing i have 2450 psi. Sound about right? I only tested one side. Do i need to take the other end and test that? So if the psi is in range. does that mean my GPM is correct also? And if all is well with my tractor does that make my wood splitter bad? cylinder is not leaking and it goes thru the motion with out wood. Any Ideas? Thanks, Nate
chances are with a used wood splitter they used a cheap cylinder and those only have a o ring with backup for a piston seal. Easy to blow those seals and then it will bypass the oil internally. Also pretty easy to replace the seal though.
 
chances are with a used wood splitter they used a cheap cylinder and those only have a o ring with backup for a piston seal. Easy to blow those seals and then it will bypass the oil internally. Also pretty easy to replace the seal though.
That pressure sounds about right to me, looks like your pump/relief are in good shape.
I'd suspect the cylinder too, or if there was a relief in the control block for the splitter? Even with a bad seal on the piston, i'd have thought it would still have good power as there is so much fluid moving through the hoses, the internal leak wouldn't keep up. It just wouldn't have any holding power.
 
That pressure sounds about right to me, looks like your pump/relief are in good shape.
I'd suspect the cylinder too, or if there was a relief in the control block for the splitter? Even with a bad seal on the piston, i'd have thought it would still have good power as there is so much fluid moving through the hoses, the internal leak wouldn't keep up. It just wouldn't have any holding power.
How big is the cylinder on the splitter? Most log splitters use a 4" cylinder to get the power they have. If it has something really small(1.75-2.0") it may have a problem splitting logs. If it where a GPM problem, it should still have the power to split as it has 2400 psi of pressure, it would just take longer.
If the size of the cylinder is right, I would say it has an internal leak.
 
How big is the cylinder on the splitter? Most log splitters use a 4" cylinder to get the power they have. If it has something really small(1.75-2.0") it may have a problem splitting logs. If it where a GPM problem, it should still have the power to split as it has 2400 psi of pressure, it would just take longer.
If the size of the cylinder is right, I would say it has an internal leak.
Does this splitter have its own valve? Quite often they have their own internal relief and it could be that this one is turned way down...
 

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