bobcat 610 clutch/steering levers unaligned

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Yzracer239

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Aug 16, 2015
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ive got a bobcat 610 I purchased needing repairs and havent used yet. I got brand new bobcat control levers and the spline shafts they slide over, which attach to the cam lever which engages the fwrd/rev clutches. Inside the cab the control levers are a good few inches misaligned from each other. Why is that? I havent had any clutches off yet, but didn't notice how to adjust levers. Are my clutches really worn and out of adjustment? When I backed it off the trailer, the old control levers and shafts were on and very sloppy. i remember needing to pull kind of hard for at least 1 or more clutch to get to move. Any thoughts?
 
I'm not following you real well racer…..when you say they are misaligned……do you mean the levers sit at different angles when not in use? For example….one angles towards the seat and one angles towards the front? When you say they are sloppy…..do they play towards each other as well as forward and reverse?
 
I'm not following you real well racer…..when you say they are misaligned……do you mean the levers sit at different angles when not in use? For example….one angles towards the seat and one angles towards the front? When you say they are sloppy…..do they play towards each other as well as forward and reverse?
yes, the levers themselves sit at different angles from each other. They were sloppy before because the splines on the control levers themselves and the splines on the shaft which slides into them at the bottom were very loose and worn out. I have since replaced the two parts on each side with oem stuff. No more play there.
 
yes, the levers themselves sit at different angles from each other. They were sloppy before because the splines on the control levers themselves and the splines on the shaft which slides into them at the bottom were very loose and worn out. I have since replaced the two parts on each side with oem stuff. No more play there.
You said it has not been moved so you may find they align simply by running the Bobcat and letting the chains on both sides free up. One side may be tight simply because it has been parked under tension.
I had a similar problem but was unable to move the Bobcat because it was a non starter and was up on a trailer. Removing the cover on the 'bad' side and loosening a few nuts on the chain tensioners freed things up and allowed the lever to straighten up.
I still need to go over everything and adjust things properly, but I don't think the misalignment was due to serious clutch problems.
 
You said it has not been moved so you may find they align simply by running the Bobcat and letting the chains on both sides free up. One side may be tight simply because it has been parked under tension.
I had a similar problem but was unable to move the Bobcat because it was a non starter and was up on a trailer. Removing the cover on the 'bad' side and loosening a few nuts on the chain tensioners freed things up and allowed the lever to straighten up.
I still need to go over everything and adjust things properly, but I don't think the misalignment was due to serious clutch problems.
OK……when properly adjusted they will align. First thing would be to assure you have the 'Lever' and the 'splined shaft' in a straight line and that the tension spring is in fact in place. The next step (and by far the most likely culprit) will be to loosen all the chains and readjust the clutches following the steps outlined in the manual. It is important to follow the instructions exactly…..also, insure you have the correct thrust bearings, clutch plate wear is not excessive and thrust race wear is within tolerances. The most important adjustment will be the correct adjustment of the 'actuating nuts' both sides and both LH & RH. You will need a manual for this procedure.
 
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OK……when properly adjusted they will align. First thing would be to assure you have the 'Lever' and the 'splined shaft' in a straight line and that the tension spring is in fact in place. The next step (and by far the most likely culprit) will be to loosen all the chains and readjust the clutches following the steps outlined in the manual. It is important to follow the instructions exactly…..also, insure you have the correct thrust bearings, clutch plate wear is not excessive and thrust race wear is within tolerances. The most important adjustment will be the correct adjustment of the 'actuating nuts' both sides and both LH & RH. You will need a manual for this procedure.
Ok Id say that sounds like a plausible reason why my levers arent aligned. I already have a manual but need to do a little more work before im ready to adjust the clutches. Could anyone tell me the minimum thickness the clutch plate needs to be?
 
Ok Id say that sounds like a plausible reason why my levers arent aligned. I already have a manual but need to do a little more work before im ready to adjust the clutches. Could anyone tell me the minimum thickness the clutch plate needs to be?
To check for excessive/uneven clutch plate wear……remove the lining between the two plates, place them back together and use a feeler gauge to insure there is no gap between the two.
 
To check for excessive/uneven clutch plate wear……remove the lining between the two plates, place them back together and use a feeler gauge to insure there is no gap between the two.
I've removed the side cover and clutches from one side of my 610. The front adjusting nut looks way out of position so I'll need to adjust the clutch shafts (pins). This looks like it will require a 1 5/16" spanner or socket. I have neither so I'll have to buy something during the week, or possibly make an open ended spanner myself from a piece of flat steel.
I'll be doing both sides so, with assorted oil lines and the variable speed valve in the way whats the recommended tool for this? Spanner or socket, or are both essential? And, have I measured the size correctly?
 
I've removed the side cover and clutches from one side of my 610. The front adjusting nut looks way out of position so I'll need to adjust the clutch shafts (pins). This looks like it will require a 1 5/16" spanner or socket. I have neither so I'll have to buy something during the week, or possibly make an open ended spanner myself from a piece of flat steel.
I'll be doing both sides so, with assorted oil lines and the variable speed valve in the way whats the recommended tool for this? Spanner or socket, or are both essential? And, have I measured the size correctly?
Yes Sir…..it is an 1 5/16". I would buy the socket as you will need to use a torque wrench on that nut…….225 lbs. You should also have a new lead washer and a new star washer for the pin. I have often used a flat brass washer with some silicone in place of the lead washer.
 

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