743B will not start

[wbecker319]

I fixed the hard starting problem, thanks to the forum. Glow plugs ohmed out good, no help, removed and tested, they got HOT. Still hard to start. I cleaned all the connections and nuts on the plugs and plug terminals, starts up with very little glow time. Now today it has electrical issue, Turn the key and no click sound, no anything, dead. Battery is very good, terminals cleaned etc. What first? Timer Modual? If it was the start relay I would still hear a click, right? Could the modual just die overnight in the shop?

 

[antfarmer2]

No click and hot battery I would look at the starter solonoid

 

[Tazza]

No click and hot battery I would look at the starter solonoid

Could be a few things, fuse, connectors may be corroded, ignition switch.
What happens if you try and jump the starter? +ve to the small connector on the starter, does it spin?

 

[wbecker319]

No click and hot battery I would look at the starter solonoid

I'm trying to understand the system, so... When I turn the key to the right, run position, (not the start position) I normally hear a click, and see the oil pressure and charge pressure lights on, water temp and fuel gauge active, now I get nothing. I may not have been clear on that. Or I don't understand the system.

 

[wbecker319]

I'm trying to understand the system, so... When I turn the key to the right, run position, (not the start position) I normally hear a click, and see the oil pressure and charge pressure lights on, water temp and fuel gauge active, now I get nothing. I may not have been clear on that. Or I don't understand the system.

I see in the parts book, page 75 illustration shows 2 timers #47 shows a NAPA #, #50 shows 6669415. Then the next illustration page #77 is the same illustration but shows item 50 (the timer) as "Fuse" #6670808. I don't understand that.

 

[[email protected]]

I see in the parts book, page 75 illustration shows 2 timers #47 shows a NAPA #, #50 shows 6669415. Then the next illustration page #77 is the same illustration but shows item 50 (the timer) as "Fuse" #6670808. I don't understand that.

check ALL of the connections on the starter. i bet that is where your problem is. over the last 2 months i replaced all of them one by one they all failed one at a time. shouldve just done them all at once.

 

[Tazza]

check ALL of the connections on the starter. i bet that is where your problem is. over the last 2 months i replaced all of them one by one they all failed one at a time. shouldve just done them all at once.

I think the initial click is the pull coil on the fuel shut off solenoid. The timer times how long the pull coil energises for to prevent it burning out.

 

[idwoodhauler]

I think the initial click is the pull coil on the fuel shut off solenoid. The timer times how long the pull coil energises for to prevent it burning out.

Be sure and check the ground connection. I have the same model and it's been the problem a few times. The connection will be bad but hidden under where it bolts to the machine.

 

[wbecker319]

Be sure and check the ground connection. I have the same model and it's been the problem a few times. The connection will be bad but hidden under where it bolts to the machine.

update: I think I have found the problem, after checking all the suggestions, and all ok, I disconnected the connectors where the cab harness connects to the engine harness. 2 pins on one of the connectors are corroded so bad the pins are corroded off the mating connector. Now I need to decide if I want to cut off the connectors and splice the wires together, or buy new harnesses. The cab harness is $144, and the engine harness is $313.

 

[antfarmer2]

update: I think I have found the problem, after checking all the suggestions, and all ok, I disconnected the connectors where the cab harness connects to the engine harness. 2 pins on one of the connectors are corroded so bad the pins are corroded off the mating connector. Now I need to decide if I want to cut off the connectors and splice the wires together, or buy new harnesses. The cab harness is $144, and the engine harness is $313.

Jump it

 

[Tazza]

Jump it

Yep, jump it.
In the past, when the wiring was toast, i bought two generic wiring harness connectors with 6-8 pins per package. Just cut the old connector out and install the new one(s) in. No sense buying an entire harness for that.

 

[antfarmer2]

Yep, jump it.
In the past, when the wiring was toast, i bought two generic wiring harness connectors with 6-8 pins per package. Just cut the old connector out and install the new one(s) in. No sense buying an entire harness for that.

Ever get it running?

 

[wbecker319]

Ever get it running?

I have it running. I bought a Weatherpac wire connector kit and crimp tool, cut off the old connectors and installed the Weatherpac, up and running. This has been a big project, I have worked on it for 2 months 4-6 hrs a day most days. The machine seems to be solid hydraulically, but was abused and left outside apparently all it's life. I have been a mechanic (Airplanes and antique tractors) all my life but had no experience with Skid Steers, has been an interesting and fun project. Today I adjusted the pintle bars (had already replaced all the linkage bushings) due to it was would creep slightly, I think I have that fixed. It seems to be a very delicate adjustment, is that typical or is there some reason it was hard to get adjusted so it wouldn't creep? Thanks for the interest. Bill i

 

[Tazza]

I have it running. I bought a Weatherpac wire connector kit and crimp tool, cut off the old connectors and installed the Weatherpac, up and running. This has been a big project, I have worked on it for 2 months 4-6 hrs a day most days. The machine seems to be solid hydraulically, but was abused and left outside apparently all it's life. I have been a mechanic (Airplanes and antique tractors) all my life but had no experience with Skid Steers, has been an interesting and fun project. Today I adjusted the pintle bars (had already replaced all the linkage bushings) due to it was would creep slightly, I think I have that fixed. It seems to be a very delicate adjustment, is that typical or is there some reason it was hard to get adjusted so it wouldn't creep? Thanks for the interest. Bill i

Glad you are getting there.
The adjustment is very touchy and hard to get spot on. The newer style machines seem to be more tollerany of being out a little bit. I have found that i could never get my 743s just rite, there was always that little bit of creep. I found tightening the spring helped quite a bit to pull it back to neutral.

 

[Tazza]

Glad you are getting there.
The adjustment is very touchy and hard to get spot on. The newer style machines seem to be more tollerany of being out a little bit. I have found that i could never get my 743s just rite, there was always that little bit of creep. I found tightening the spring helped quite a bit to pull it back to neutral.

If you didn't have the details on adjusting it already:
http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/Steering Adjustment.jpg

 

[wbecker319]

If you didn't have the details on adjusting it already:
http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/Steering%20Adjustment.jpg

Thanks for posting the adjustment info, I appreciate all the help from this group, I do have the manuals and followed it. But it seems to be a very touchy adjustment, hard to get just right. So I'm thinking this is normal and not a indication of something worn out? I have it now to where with it jacked up if the steering levers are wiggled into exact neutral position, the wheels do not creep. I will take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it works. Thanks to all for the input. Bill

 

[Tazza]

Thanks for posting the adjustment info, I appreciate all the help from this group, I do have the manuals and followed it. But it seems to be a very touchy adjustment, hard to get just right. So I'm thinking this is normal and not a indication of something worn out? I have it now to where with it jacked up if the steering levers are wiggled into exact neutral position, the wheels do not creep. I will take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it works. Thanks to all for the input. Bill

The adjustment is very touchy. If there is waer on the round stops and the rectangular bar, it can make the job harder. Even new parts can make the adjustment hard....
Hopefully you got it rite, or close enough to not creep

 

[jerry]

The adjustment is very touchy. If there is waer on the round stops and the rectangular bar, it can make the job harder. Even new parts can make the adjustment hard....
Hopefully you got it rite, or close enough to not creep

I'd guess the 743 has the same steering set-up as the 632 I had. I replaced all the linkage connectors and the bearings on the outer ends of the cross shaft and it made a big difference. No more creep and actually didnt cost too much , less that $50 at that time. However what worked for me may not for you.

 

[wbecker319]

I'd guess the 743 has the same steering set-up as the 632 I had. I replaced all the linkage connectors and the bearings on the outer ends of the cross shaft and it made a big difference. No more creep and actually didnt cost too much , less that $50 at that time. However what worked for me may not for you.

Jerry, I had already replaced all 4 of the rubber mounted bushing on the linkage and one of the side side bearings as you did. After several adjustments it now does not creep, yippy! My next problem is: I want to get a root grapple for it. I was looking at the hydraulics for the front aux hydraulics an saw that it has the couplers on the front and the hard lines on the lift arm,but there are no hoses connecting to the hard lines in the back of the machine. If you open the engine door and look to your left on the inside below the air filter there are 2 capped off lines that I think are there to connect to the hoses to the front aux hydraulics. BUT they have a bend toward the back of the machine, making it almost impossible the connect the hoses. (I need to lean how to put pictures on this site.) I took a picture to the Bobcat dealer and ended up with 3 parts guys and 1 mechanic, none of them could understand how this could be. The hard lines are factory clamped, not kinked, and look original, if they went straight up (as in the parts book) I could easily connect the hoses for the front aux hydraulics. Any thought from anyone?