BOBCAT T200 HI FLOW/ electric prob/ no power up

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krmoto

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
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16
Hi all, Has anyone had this prob? had this machine for 12 months with no probs until the other day, went to start it and no power up when turn key, all was working fine the day before but the only thing different was l had the lights on for 10 mins (never ever used them before) anyway messed around with everything battery/cables/fuses but no go, the cab light was the only thing that worked and the rear LED park lights, so l thought the key switch could have failed so left it till the next day to round up some tools and elec tester, so next day just thought l will try it and see if it had fixed itself over night and it had which is nice but l need to know why, the first thing that comes to mind is condensation and thinking about it whilst writing this is the fact that the work lights are in the top corners of the cab also is the start key and panel so if l used the lights for a short time would the heat off them cause condensation to the panel or switch?, l am in the UK and it's been very wet and we have just had a few mild frosts. Any thoughts welcome.
 
pink white wire from controller to lh panel branches to rh panel. wire was not quite big enough to carry load, in sever condintions problem beieng it will ohm check fine but wont carry load.( symptons blinkin or blank panel) but be carefull trace it and identify it batt pwr on wrong pin will make the smoke leak out of the (componets you dont want to pay for) to make damm sure you dont just pwr it up identify wire comining from controller. that supplys r and lft panel.(this may be to much info for jimmy joe blow if so techs please advise) my concern being saftey and or cost of smoked componets) moderator please advise prior to post
 
pink white wire from controller to lh panel branches to rh panel. wire was not quite big enough to carry load, in sever condintions problem beieng it will ohm check fine but wont carry load.( symptons blinkin or blank panel) but be carefull trace it and identify it batt pwr on wrong pin will make the smoke leak out of the (componets you dont want to pay for) to make damm sure you dont just pwr it up identify wire comining from controller. that supplys r and lft panel.(this may be to much info for jimmy joe blow if so techs please advise) my concern being saftey and or cost of smoked componets) moderator please advise prior to post
Ok that's interesting so many thanks. Have more info since my 1st post, there seems to be a problem with the lift and tilt joystick, the machine seems to now power up most of the time and will run normal then for some reason it will lift the arms and the only way to stop it lifting is move the stick to the lower position and that will usually prevent any more lift (but not always) and when the stick is in the rest position l can hear oil noise (like shhhh), l used the T200 today and it ran perfect for 4 hours but l did'nt activate the attachment oil for the 4 in 1 bucket but for the last 1/2 hour l had to use the 4 in 1 and it worked normal for a while then up goes the arms on a mind of its own and no error codes or warning lights, but if l stop the engine and restart it the ACS light comes on and error 32-40 (LH joystick not in rest position), to clear it l must disconnect the battery earth. it seems like when it goes wrong and lifts the arms whatever controls the arms up and down gets confused to what it is supposed to be doing, the next time l run it l will see what happens when it goes wrong and restart it and leave the attachment flow off just to confirm this is connected to the fault.
 
Ok that's interesting so many thanks. Have more info since my 1st post, there seems to be a problem with the lift and tilt joystick, the machine seems to now power up most of the time and will run normal then for some reason it will lift the arms and the only way to stop it lifting is move the stick to the lower position and that will usually prevent any more lift (but not always) and when the stick is in the rest position l can hear oil noise (like shhhh), l used the T200 today and it ran perfect for 4 hours but l did'nt activate the attachment oil for the 4 in 1 bucket but for the last 1/2 hour l had to use the 4 in 1 and it worked normal for a while then up goes the arms on a mind of its own and no error codes or warning lights, but if l stop the engine and restart it the ACS light comes on and error 32-40 (LH joystick not in rest position), to clear it l must disconnect the battery earth. it seems like when it goes wrong and lifts the arms whatever controls the arms up and down gets confused to what it is supposed to be doing, the next time l run it l will see what happens when it goes wrong and restart it and leave the attachment flow off just to confirm this is connected to the fault.
Sorry, the problem is with the (LH) lift joystick function only, when it goes bad the (RH) 4 in1 bucket tilt function still works, this fault is intermittent and might be brought on when l switch the variable flow on for the 4 in 1 bucket, l say might be because it seems to work for a while say 20-30mins but when it goes bad l disconnect the batt and leave the machine till the next day and all is normal again, its like something is heating up gradually with use then goes bad, if this machine was not controlled by electronics l would say it had a faulty lift switch or a sticking lift solenoid valve. I think there is a clue to the fault here somewhere but l don't understand the way the elec's monitor and control the machine. Machine goes bad (arms lift automatically) NO WARNING LIGHTS/NO ERRORS. Turn off machine/turn on machine, ACS LIGHT ON/ ERROR 32-40. (LH STICK NOT IN NEUTRAL) Leave machine till next day (cool down) /connect batt/all normal and works fine for a while.
 
pink white wire from controller to lh panel branches to rh panel. wire was not quite big enough to carry load, in sever condintions problem beieng it will ohm check fine but wont carry load.( symptons blinkin or blank panel) but be carefull trace it and identify it batt pwr on wrong pin will make the smoke leak out of the (componets you dont want to pay for) to make damm sure you dont just pwr it up identify wire comining from controller. that supplys r and lft panel.(this may be to much info for jimmy joe blow if so techs please advise) my concern being saftey and or cost of smoked componets) moderator please advise prior to post
Hi 7LBSSMALLIE, today we have no power up again so it was a good time to check the voltage on the pink&white wire at at the RH key panel and there was barely any voltage so checked LH panel and had 7.3 volts, so messed around with harness a bit and then got 10.2v at RH and 11.5v at LH so plugged panels back in and no power up, so checked volts again and barely any volts at RH again, l noticed the red ignition switch wire has been pinched (for a long time and because the copper showing was green) can l run a wire from the battery and through a inline fuse to the red ignition wire and see if we get power up?. is the controller on the side above the battery?.
 
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Hi 7LBSSMALLIE, today we have no power up again so it was a good time to check the voltage on the pink&white wire at at the RH key panel and there was barely any voltage so checked LH panel and had 7.3 volts, so messed around with harness a bit and then got 10.2v at RH and 11.5v at LH so plugged panels back in and no power up, so checked volts again and barely any volts at RH again, l noticed the red ignition switch wire has been pinched (for a long time and because the copper showing was green) can l run a wire from the battery and through a inline fuse to the red ignition wire and see if we get power up?. is the controller on the side above the battery?.
Today had 12.5v on both red&white panel feed wires, then replug LH panel and RH feed has almost no voltage, any idea's please.
 
Today had 12.5v on both red&white panel feed wires, then replug LH panel and RH feed has almost no voltage, any idea's please.
It's not as simple as a bad ignition switch is it?
Did you check all your fuses and holders for corrosion?
 
It's not as simple as a bad ignition switch is it?
Did you check all your fuses and holders for corrosion?
our problem descriptions are all over the board , lets start again, A; lift arms slowly raise, uncommaned, no codes. shss noise,( sounds like aux spool stuck, other symptons should include, tilt back uncomanned, may be hard to start,(eng lug) hyd temp hi, etc B; elect issues volatage all over the board, (ive said it time and time start at heart of elect sys , is the batt good, as in the right one, water full(asin plates covered) does it pass a load test, is specific grav whithin specs, are cables clean are grounds clean , is alt not only putting out proper voltage but amps as well,(needs checked), have you been jumpining it,( note the posts that correllate bad batts and smoked controolers> one other trouble spot on elect sys is back side of fuse panel , prise out of rubber boot, and inspect back side for green stuff this is just a few things to look at, if you could please post a clear and concise , these are my issues, as a bla bla bla b etc,
 
our problem descriptions are all over the board , lets start again, A; lift arms slowly raise, uncommaned, no codes. shss noise,( sounds like aux spool stuck, other symptons should include, tilt back uncomanned, may be hard to start,(eng lug) hyd temp hi, etc B; elect issues volatage all over the board, (ive said it time and time start at heart of elect sys , is the batt good, as in the right one, water full(asin plates covered) does it pass a load test, is specific grav whithin specs, are cables clean are grounds clean , is alt not only putting out proper voltage but amps as well,(needs checked), have you been jumpining it,( note the posts that correllate bad batts and smoked controolers> one other trouble spot on elect sys is back side of fuse panel , prise out of rubber boot, and inspect back side for green stuff this is just a few things to look at, if you could please post a clear and concise , these are my issues, as a bla bla bla b etc,
note panel feed that you want is pink not red
 
our problem descriptions are all over the board , lets start again, A; lift arms slowly raise, uncommaned, no codes. shss noise,( sounds like aux spool stuck, other symptons should include, tilt back uncomanned, may be hard to start,(eng lug) hyd temp hi, etc B; elect issues volatage all over the board, (ive said it time and time start at heart of elect sys , is the batt good, as in the right one, water full(asin plates covered) does it pass a load test, is specific grav whithin specs, are cables clean are grounds clean , is alt not only putting out proper voltage but amps as well,(needs checked), have you been jumpining it,( note the posts that correllate bad batts and smoked controolers> one other trouble spot on elect sys is back side of fuse panel , prise out of rubber boot, and inspect back side for green stuff this is just a few things to look at, if you could please post a clear and concise , these are my issues, as a bla bla bla b etc,
note panel feed that you want is pink white not red and and white, and didint mean to sound so cocky just trining to get my head around issues, as in 1 2 and 3,
 
It's not as simple as a bad ignition switch is it?
Did you check all your fuses and holders for corrosion?
Hi Tazza, l did check the fuses again today and found when looking closer that the front lights fuse was not blown but heat bubbled on the one side which brings me back to my first post when l said the prob's started after l used the lights FOR THE 1ST TIME. did try to get the fuse block out but need some better tools so will try again tomos, my T200 is in the middle of a forest so not real handy because now it's completely dead.
 
Hi Tazza, l did check the fuses again today and found when looking closer that the front lights fuse was not blown but heat bubbled on the one side which brings me back to my first post when l said the prob's started after l used the lights FOR THE 1ST TIME. did try to get the fuse block out but need some better tools so will try again tomos, my T200 is in the middle of a forest so not real handy because now it's completely dead.
Ignition switch is good as far as l can tell, 12v power supply drops to almost nothing at RH ignition panel plug when l connect the LH panel. Sorry 7LBSMALLIE it's been a bit all over the place but this is how it's been until now, the intermittent thing is gone and now it is dead, the battery always cranked very well so l think it's good and is showing 12.8v at the terminals, cleaned 100 amp main fuse today, it was dry but has had water in it at some stage because the cover has no drain hole.
 
Ignition switch is good as far as l can tell, 12v power supply drops to almost nothing at RH ignition panel plug when l connect the LH panel. Sorry 7LBSMALLIE it's been a bit all over the place but this is how it's been until now, the intermittent thing is gone and now it is dead, the battery always cranked very well so l think it's good and is showing 12.8v at the terminals, cleaned 100 amp main fuse today, it was dry but has had water in it at some stage because the cover has no drain hole.
7LBSMALLIE, l would be very surprised if the battery/alt was at fault because this machine has always cranked very well and is now at 12.8v and the only time l have used a jump start pack is last week when everything was dead thinking it had drained overnight but that was'nt the case, l will get to the back of the fuse/relay box and the computer plugs today and let you know the outcome, l think your B trouble shoot is much more likely because this thing won't even attempt to power any panel lights for ignition on, l want to bypass the harness to the Pink/wht panel wire but do not want to do anything risky, please advise.
 
7LBSMALLIE, l would be very surprised if the battery/alt was at fault because this machine has always cranked very well and is now at 12.8v and the only time l have used a jump start pack is last week when everything was dead thinking it had drained overnight but that was'nt the case, l will get to the back of the fuse/relay box and the computer plugs today and let you know the outcome, l think your B trouble shoot is much more likely because this thing won't even attempt to power any panel lights for ignition on, l want to bypass the harness to the Pink/wht panel wire but do not want to do anything risky, please advise.
spent all day checking stuff and back of fuse box is good with no green crud and is showing 12.8v on the fuses, battery is good New Jan 2011 Exid professional 950 amp, earth batt to chassis good, pos terminal good, computer plugs good, cant find any sign of loom damage, the panel feed wire colours are def red&white no pink&white going my panels, running out of things to check, driving me nuts.
 
spent all day checking stuff and back of fuse box is good with no green crud and is showing 12.8v on the fuses, battery is good New Jan 2011 Exid professional 950 amp, earth batt to chassis good, pos terminal good, computer plugs good, cant find any sign of loom damage, the panel feed wire colours are def red&white no pink&white going my panels, running out of things to check, driving me nuts.
Very odd. Not sure what else to check?
 
Very odd. Not sure what else to check?
Computer glitch maybe? I have seen other cases where problems have jumped all over, and it ended up a computer problem. You say it has been a very wet season? Wonder if some water has found it's way in? Just a guess.....
 
Computer glitch maybe? I have seen other cases where problems have jumped all over, and it ended up a computer problem. You say it has been a very wet season? Wonder if some water has found it's way in? Just a guess.....
Up and running again, took the live from cig lighter put 10amp inline fuse on and spliced it to the red&white LH panel feed now powers up and starts, only thing is the glow plug light is flashing but l cant feel the relay cut in so for some reason poss the system thinks there is a fault? but no codes up. Will give it some work on Monday and see if all is well.
 
Up and running again, took the live from cig lighter put 10amp inline fuse on and spliced it to the red&white LH panel feed now powers up and starts, only thing is the glow plug light is flashing but l cant feel the relay cut in so for some reason poss the system thinks there is a fault? but no codes up. Will give it some work on Monday and see if all is well.
All is well and working as should (with bypass feed) accept glow plug light flashing but it starts up fine. CHEERS GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.
 
All is well and working as should (with bypass feed) accept glow plug light flashing but it starts up fine. CHEERS GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.
Does the flashing glow plug light mean the the glow plugs are on?
 

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