Thomas 175

[phk_xb]

Hi, I am going to look at a Thomas 175 with around 2500 hrs. Is there anything specific to look for on these machines? This will be my first skidsteer, but I have operated them before. He is asking $12,000 CAN for it, I was doing some comparing and it seems to a little heavier then other brands with the same horsepower, I guess that could be good or bad depending on the situation.

Evan.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Nothing specific I know of, jst the usual stuff. Does it start good cold and exhaust smoke clear right up. Runs smooth, not much blowby, pins are tight, tracks straight forward and backwards at full speed. no abnormal sound. Jack it up an see if the wheel bearing are good by slidding the axel side to side and up and down. There should be no play, at 2500 hours a few thousand of a inch might be normal.
Where in Canada?
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

Nothing specific I know of, jst the usual stuff. Does it start good cold and exhaust smoke clear right up. Runs smooth, not much blowby, pins are tight, tracks straight forward and backwards at full speed. no abnormal sound. Jack it up an see if the wheel bearing are good by slidding the axel side to side and up and down. There should be no play, at 2500 hours a few thousand of a inch might be normal.
Where in Canada?
Ken

Thanks for the replay, Nova Scotia is where I am from. I called you a few months ago to talk about ss's but I still never pulled the trigger. Today I had a quick look (long story) at a JD 320 that United Rentals has for sale, I would need a better look to consider it tho. Tomorrow I am going to look at the Thomas, which I hope will go good.

 

[phk_xb]

Thanks for the replay, Nova Scotia is where I am from. I called you a few months ago to talk about ss's but I still never pulled the trigger. Today I had a quick look (long story) at a JD 320 that United Rentals has for sale, I would need a better look to consider it tho. Tomorrow I am going to look at the Thomas, which I hope will go good.

Well today I bought a Thomas 175. Never had too much time to play around but I did move some snow back with it. I will get some pics up in a few days.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Well today I bought a Thomas 175. Never had too much time to play around but I did move some snow back with it. I will get some pics up in a few days.

Get us some, I can help you post them if needed. There are some tips on posting pics under the faq section
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

Get us some, I can help you post them if needed. There are some tips on posting pics under the faq section
Ken

Any tips on how to fix the broken chain on the tire chains? So far I had to put a female quick coupler on the aux. hydraulics and a new beacon. I got a few things working like the temperature control for the cab heater and some of the seat adjustments. The left control lever seem to be a little sloppy and sometimes the machine creeps backwards, but not all the time. I am going to change the fluids but its been a little too cold for me to work outside, since the machine is just too tall to fit through the garage door. Another thing I need is one of the boom locks as one of them is missing.
Evan.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Any tips on how to fix the broken chain on the tire chains? So far I had to put a female quick coupler on the aux. hydraulics and a new beacon. I got a few things working like the temperature control for the cab heater and some of the seat adjustments. The left control lever seem to be a little sloppy and sometimes the machine creeps backwards, but not all the time. I am going to change the fluids but its been a little too cold for me to work outside, since the machine is just too tall to fit through the garage door. Another thing I need is one of the boom locks as one of them is missing.
Evan.

Search "setting neutral" for tips on the creep problem, if it gets too bad it makes starting the machine hard as the pumps are drawing power trying to move the machine, essentually fighting the starter. Put it up on block and release the park brake then you can see what it wants to do. Try to fix the slack in the linkage as that contributes to the trouble.
The tire chains: just cut a link of chain open, join the two ends and weld it shut. It will last quite awhile so long as the chains are not getting worn too thin. Chains should be 3/8" diameter material in the face chain or its not too long before they simply break. 5/16 is marginal and 1/4" is way too light.
We have also added replacement seats to our line of products in case your looking.
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

Search "setting neutral" for tips on the creep problem, if it gets too bad it makes starting the machine hard as the pumps are drawing power trying to move the machine, essentually fighting the starter. Put it up on block and release the park brake then you can see what it wants to do. Try to fix the slack in the linkage as that contributes to the trouble.
The tire chains: just cut a link of chain open, join the two ends and weld it shut. It will last quite awhile so long as the chains are not getting worn too thin. Chains should be 3/8" diameter material in the face chain or its not too long before they simply break. 5/16 is marginal and 1/4" is way too light.
We have also added replacement seats to our line of products in case your looking.
Ken

I have beed doing some general maintenance to the Thomas and it has been going ok. I thought that it would be easier to find filters for it but everyone has to cross reference a bunch of suppliers to find anything and then its a few day wait for them.
I greased the machine and all the pins took grease. I have play in the bottom of the quick attach pins and the tilt cylinder pins, more on the Q/A end. When replacing pins, would line boring be required or should the pins have taken all the damage? Also I noticed in the repair manual that the boom to Q/A pins also show a bushing. Is there an aftermarket supplier for pins and bushings or should I just call Thomas or go to a machine shop?
Thanks, Evan.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I have beed doing some general maintenance to the Thomas and it has been going ok. I thought that it would be easier to find filters for it but everyone has to cross reference a bunch of suppliers to find anything and then its a few day wait for them.
I greased the machine and all the pins took grease. I have play in the bottom of the quick attach pins and the tilt cylinder pins, more on the Q/A end. When replacing pins, would line boring be required or should the pins have taken all the damage? Also I noticed in the repair manual that the boom to Q/A pins also show a bushing. Is there an aftermarket supplier for pins and bushings or should I just call Thomas or go to a machine shop?
Thanks, Evan.

Usually the tilt cylinder pins at the qa wear the most and should be greased the most because of how much they rotate. The lower qa to arm pins also seem to wear faster then the others.
Not familair with Thomas, but good to hear they have a bushing there, hopefully that and a new pin and your back to new. Sometimes the tilt cylinders are bushed at the qa end too. If not a new pin will remove 1/2 the play usually.
Tympkin of bearing fame makes bushings with standard o.d. and i.d. and pins can be made from cylinder ram shafting if they are simple pins.
But if they have a taper or a theaded bore like Bobcat, you will likely be able to buy them cheaper. At least check the price first before going the custom machine route.
Also measure your pins, I was going to freshen one loader up but was surprized to see my pins wear only worn .080", however a stack up of tolerances in the cylinder rod end, and the pin and where the pin past through the quick attach made changing the pin solve only a portion of the problem.
Here is a old thead on doing this to a bobcat but much of the theory applys.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=3182
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

Usually the tilt cylinder pins at the qa wear the most and should be greased the most because of how much they rotate. The lower qa to arm pins also seem to wear faster then the others.
Not familair with Thomas, but good to hear they have a bushing there, hopefully that and a new pin and your back to new. Sometimes the tilt cylinders are bushed at the qa end too. If not a new pin will remove 1/2 the play usually.
Tympkin of bearing fame makes bushings with standard o.d. and i.d. and pins can be made from cylinder ram shafting if they are simple pins.
But if they have a taper or a theaded bore like Bobcat, you will likely be able to buy them cheaper. At least check the price first before going the custom machine route.
Also measure your pins, I was going to freshen one loader up but was surprized to see my pins wear only worn .080", however a stack up of tolerances in the cylinder rod end, and the pin and where the pin past through the quick attach made changing the pin solve only a portion of the problem.
Here is a old thead on doing this to a bobcat but much of the theory applys.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=3182
Ken

http://s573.photobucket.com/albums/ss171/phk_xb/Skid Steer/?action=view&current=IMG_0191.jpg
Thats the lower qa to arm pin and the bolt that is welded to the arm looks to be in rough shape. The nut would not come off and I think I will end up breaking the stud off the arm. I will probably have to re-weld a new stud on the arm.
One of the Thomas dealers wants $107.77 for each lower qa to arm pin. For everything, 4 pins, 6 bushings and some shipping with tax would be $502. I will check with the other dealers that is further away from me to see what his prices would be.
The pins should not give me any trouble as I can move them now with the play in that bolt in the picture above.

 

[phk_xb]

http://s573.photobucket.com/albums/ss171/phk_xb/Skid%20Steer/?action=view&current=IMG_0191.jpg
Thats the lower qa to arm pin and the bolt that is welded to the arm looks to be in rough shape. The nut would not come off and I think I will end up breaking the stud off the arm. I will probably have to re-weld a new stud on the arm.
One of the Thomas dealers wants $107.77 for each lower qa to arm pin. For everything, 4 pins, 6 bushings and some shipping with tax would be $502. I will check with the other dealers that is further away from me to see what his prices would be.
The pins should not give me any trouble as I can move them now with the play in that bolt in the picture above.

 

[phk_xb]

Today I changed the hydraulic oil and filter and ran into a weird problem. When I was trying to take the oil filter off it would spin then get stiff then spin.....At first I thought something was stripped, either the oil filter or the filter housing. So I took the housing off and ended up cutting the filter in half to discover that the outer shell was the only part turning, the inside of the oil filter which actually threads onto the housing was not turning. I just took a punch and spun it off. Has anyone else seen that happen before?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Today I changed the hydraulic oil and filter and ran into a weird problem. When I was trying to take the oil filter off it would spin then get stiff then spin.....At first I thought something was stripped, either the oil filter or the filter housing. So I took the housing off and ended up cutting the filter in half to discover that the outer shell was the only part turning, the inside of the oil filter which actually threads onto the housing was not turning. I just took a punch and spun it off. Has anyone else seen that happen before?

It does seem unussual but I suppose anything is possible.
Strange the filter did not leak. Was it one very tight?
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

It does seem unussual but I suppose anything is possible.
Strange the filter did not leak. Was it one very tight?
Ken

I would say it wasn't on too tight as it didn't take much of a tap with the hammer to get it off.
Would not oiling the gasket cause something like that to happen?
Evan.
Here's a pic of the oil filter after I got it off.
Oh and I did flush a bunch of oil through the filter assemble to make sure there were no fillings.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I would say it wasn't on too tight as it didn't take much of a tap with the hammer to get it off.
Would not oiling the gasket cause something like that to happen?
Evan.
Here's a pic of the oil filter after I got it off.
Oh and I did flush a bunch of oil through the filter assemble to make sure there were no fillings.

Usually Baldwin is a pretty good filter, but I suppose they may have gotten a poor crimp where the canister attaches to the base. Never seen that b4 and i do use there products quite a bit. I have seen the can crushed in with the strap type wrenches on filters that where too tight. But never had one slip.
No biggie I guess, you made sure you got it clean, just kinda a pain in....
Ken

 

[phk_xb]

Usually Baldwin is a pretty good filter, but I suppose they may have gotten a poor crimp where the canister attaches to the base. Never seen that b4 and i do use there products quite a bit. I have seen the can crushed in with the strap type wrenches on filters that where too tight. But never had one slip.
No biggie I guess, you made sure you got it clean, just kinda a pain in....
Ken

I am trying to get the float working on my thomas. I checked the pedal and it seems to not hit anything. I am wondering how to check to make sure the linkage is stroking the spool the entire length. The lift pedal will not lock in the float position.

 

[kroog]

I am trying to get the float working on my thomas. I checked the pedal and it seems to not hit anything. I am wondering how to check to make sure the linkage is stroking the spool the entire length. The lift pedal will not lock in the float position.

Hi,
I have a T243HDS.
The float can be a bit tricky.
I have to lift the boom, idle the engine way down, tilt the attachment forward a bit and hit the float to get it to work.
If I have the machine on high idle, the float kicks out.
Hope this helps