S185 front bearing slack / seal leakage

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JD4440

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Jun 12, 2009
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Hi, I'm a new member here with an S185 standard flow skidsteer. The bearings in the front 2 axles have between 1/8" and 1/4" side to side movement; so much that the seals leak oil out of the right side. (the right rear leaks too but has no movement) I think I read on here a 773 has 'spacers?' to take up the slack, I think mine is the newer model of that machine. So I guess my question is do I need to replace the bearings or can I install more of these shims to eliminate my oil loss? Is there anywhere on here or online that has a parts breakdown or a service procedure on how to correct this problem? our dealer has been less than willing to part with the info. Any help is appreciated. Chris
 
It sounds like you have bad bearings, that much slack is BAD BAD. You can buy washers to take up say .010-.015” of slack. You will need to change the bearings and seals. Being the front, access isn't too bad.
 
It sounds like you have bad bearings, that much slack is BAD BAD. You can buy washers to take up say .010-.015” of slack. You will need to change the bearings and seals. Being the front, access isn't too bad.
Is this something I can do myself with no special tools? Seems like if I were to remove the sprocket bolt and remove the sprocket the axle should come out or is it harder than that? If I have no slack in the rear could the seal just be bad there? Thanks, Chris
 
Is this something I can do myself with no special tools? Seems like if I were to remove the sprocket bolt and remove the sprocket the axle should come out or is it harder than that? If I have no slack in the rear could the seal just be bad there? Thanks, Chris
If there is no play your bearings are good. Swap the seal and you should be good to go.
You are spot on, remove the sprocket and the axle will slide out. No real special tools are required, only something to seat the new seal. You technically can do this with a punch and hammer though.
 
If there is no play your bearings are good. Swap the seal and you should be good to go.
You are spot on, remove the sprocket and the axle will slide out. No real special tools are required, only something to seat the new seal. You technically can do this with a punch and hammer though.
Thank you. Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on this in the next day or 2. I have a fairly broad brass punch I seat seals with I guess I'll use.
 
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Thank you. Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on this in the next day or 2. I have a fairly broad brass punch I seat seals with I guess I'll use.
If you have access to a lathe, you can make an installation tool very easily.
 
If you have access to a lathe, you can make an installation tool very easily.
No lathe. is there a seal on the inside too or just the outside? I would think just the outside but checking anyhow
 
No lathe. is there a seal on the inside too or just the outside? I would think just the outside but checking anyhow
And could you please delete my avatar. I didn't even think about it saying "moderator" when I loaded it, Don't want to disrespect. Thanks, Chris
 
And could you please delete my avatar. I didn't even think about it saying "moderator" when I loaded it, Don't want to disrespect. Thanks, Chris
The seal is only on the outside. You need to remove the hub to gain access. Loosen the big bolt in the middle. I use 2 hydraulic bottle jacks, one either side of the hub, pump it up quite hard then strike the back with a copper hammer till it cracks free. Others have used a sledge hammer on its own. Keep the bolt in, but slack, when that hub comes free it can skate a LONG way and damage things or people!
I don't have access to user accounts or their avatar, i only have access to posts. You should be able to change it under your profile.
 
The seal is only on the outside. You need to remove the hub to gain access. Loosen the big bolt in the middle. I use 2 hydraulic bottle jacks, one either side of the hub, pump it up quite hard then strike the back with a copper hammer till it cracks free. Others have used a sledge hammer on its own. Keep the bolt in, but slack, when that hub comes free it can skate a LONG way and damage things or people!
I don't have access to user accounts or their avatar, i only have access to posts. You should be able to change it under your profile.
I've tried deleting it and clicking "save changes but it's still there. Currently I have the hubs off and the bolt/washer off the sprocket inside the chaincase. Not knowing where to release the tension on the chain I can't remove the sprocket but it's very loose on the splines. I have a plate bolted in place of the hub to pull on but the shaft won't come out; even with tapping from a hammer. Seems like it's being held by something because it hits just like the sprocket is still bolted on. A co-worker says the sprocket isn't binding when I tap on it. Did I miss something? Could the outer seal be that stout to hold it in?
 
I've tried deleting it and clicking "save changes but it's still there. Currently I have the hubs off and the bolt/washer off the sprocket inside the chaincase. Not knowing where to release the tension on the chain I can't remove the sprocket but it's very loose on the splines. I have a plate bolted in place of the hub to pull on but the shaft won't come out; even with tapping from a hammer. Seems like it's being held by something because it hits just like the sprocket is still bolted on. A co-worker says the sprocket isn't binding when I tap on it. Did I miss something? Could the outer seal be that stout to hold it in?
No need to release the pressure on the chain. Sit the hub back back on the axle, use the bolt but not tight. Use a jack again to push the axle out. Its held in by the bearings and seal, thats why it won't simply slide out. I may have a picture of this at home, if you want to remind me with an e-mail.
Its really quite simple, once you have done it once you will think that was so simple!!!
 
No need to release the pressure on the chain. Sit the hub back back on the axle, use the bolt but not tight. Use a jack again to push the axle out. Its held in by the bearings and seal, thats why it won't simply slide out. I may have a picture of this at home, if you want to remind me with an e-mail.
Its really quite simple, once you have done it once you will think that was so simple!!!
Good deal on the chain. Is this same basically as a 773 ? We have a 773 on the farm and they look identical. I read the thread on this procedure here for one of those and think it read I need something to press the bearings back in, or can it be done with the sproket bolt? I was hoping he would post his pics but no luck so far. I'll shoot you an e-mail now. Thanks, Chris
 
Good deal on the chain. Is this same basically as a 773 ? We have a 773 on the farm and they look identical. I read the thread on this procedure here for one of those and think it read I need something to press the bearings back in, or can it be done with the sproket bolt? I was hoping he would post his pics but no luck so far. I'll shoot you an e-mail now. Thanks, Chris
You don't NEED a press, i used a length of water pipe and a hammer. Get a piece about 2' long and just the rite size to go over the axle. Slide the bearing on and sit the water pipe on and tap it into place with a hammer. When it gets to the lower end, you can just hold the pipe and smack it into place with you hand by lifting it up and whacking it down, very simple!
 
You don't NEED a press, i used a length of water pipe and a hammer. Get a piece about 2' long and just the rite size to go over the axle. Slide the bearing on and sit the water pipe on and tap it into place with a hammer. When it gets to the lower end, you can just hold the pipe and smack it into place with you hand by lifting it up and whacking it down, very simple!
Finally made some time to work on this today. New races installed, bearings are on outer ends of the shafts and ready to set the sprokets on when I get a hand. Button up, replace the one bad seal in the rear and paint the cab and we'll be in business again maybe(hope I don't need any shims) I took some pics too , Thank you again Tazza
 
Finally made some time to work on this today. New races installed, bearings are on outer ends of the shafts and ready to set the sprokets on when I get a hand. Button up, replace the one bad seal in the rear and paint the cab and we'll be in business again maybe(hope I don't need any shims) I took some pics too , Thank you again Tazza
Mostly they aren't needed, i have only ever needed to do one once. This is out of about 12 seals.
 
Mostly they aren't needed, i have only ever needed to do one once. This is out of about 12 seals.
Well, I got it back together this morning. No slack to speak of but I'll check tourque on everything after a few hours. Had quite a scare-went to move and had some disturbing poping from there. I guess I was a link off on my left chain or (??) after a good pop or 2 it didn't make another sound besides a little chain noise. Moved a few pallets and all seems good. Friday I plan to paint the cab and replace the rear seal maybe. On a side note I found the fuel tank drain and emptied some water. I took some pics of the shaft & bearings Tazza if you'd like them for future new members such as myself. Thank you, Chris
 
Well, I got it back together this morning. No slack to speak of but I'll check tourque on everything after a few hours. Had quite a scare-went to move and had some disturbing poping from there. I guess I was a link off on my left chain or (??) after a good pop or 2 it didn't make another sound besides a little chain noise. Moved a few pallets and all seems good. Friday I plan to paint the cab and replace the rear seal maybe. On a side note I found the fuel tank drain and emptied some water. I took some pics of the shaft & bearings Tazza if you'd like them for future new members such as myself. Thank you, Chris
Glad you got it sorted out. Not sure i like the popping sound you describe, but as long as it doesn't do it now.
Send the pics over, i'll post them for you :)
 

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