New tire chains, but what design and specs?

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bahmi

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Dec 26, 2008
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OK, chains will help on ice and snow, even muddy ground. However, let's fine tune what kind of chains might be best. Do we get common rounded links on the cross lengths, or square cut edges or even the chains with V-shaped structures welded to the cross chains? Any body researched which type/form of chain renders the best traction? I'm ready to plunk down the cash, but wonder what chains would be the best. thanks Mike
 
Mine are a 1/2 twisted round link, about 3/8“ diameter. The square or ice pick “studded” chain likely perform better on pure ice. Any chain will help alot in packed snow as they break the glaze on the surface and rough it up.
I think your over thinking it, I can't see the square chain staying square long as they will wear. The studded chain and less so the twisted chain do wear longer because they tough the ground in more places or with more steel.
Ken
 
Mine are a 1/2 twisted round link, about 3/8“ diameter. The square or ice pick “studded” chain likely perform better on pure ice. Any chain will help alot in packed snow as they break the glaze on the surface and rough it up.
I think your over thinking it, I can't see the square chain staying square long as they will wear. The studded chain and less so the twisted chain do wear longer because they tough the ground in more places or with more steel.
Ken
Ken's right, go with regular round chain.Make sure the chains fit the tire. I buy mine from military surplus for $75 a pair. They run them on five ton trucks. I cut them to length and end up with seven or eight extra cross links.scott
 
Ken's right, go with regular round chain.Make sure the chains fit the tire. I buy mine from military surplus for $75 a pair. They run them on five ton trucks. I cut them to length and end up with seven or eight extra cross links.scott
What source for military chains are you using now? Can you get me a name and website or phone number? thanks Mike
 
What source for military chains are you using now? Can you get me a name and website or phone number? thanks Mike
I get them from E A Patson and Sons here in Anchorage and they buy them buy the barrel, literaly. They specialize in military trucks they sell out in the bush. You should be able to search the web and find a supplier in military surplus. 14.00x 20.00 is the size. with my 11.50x 16.5 , they come over the side wall pretty far. I don't know if you are running a smaller tire on your machine. Take the slack out with bungees. If you can't find these, I know others on the site would know of brands that would work scott
 
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i got v-shaped cross chains on all four wheels of my 1845C and it works out very good.
I run a twist link with studs they work great, I plow snow all winter with them, I tried truck chais once and blew them apart in one day.When I push a full load in 8' snow bucket or do dirt work in fall that is quit a bit of stress on chains
 
I run a twist link with studs they work great, I plow snow all winter with them, I tried truck chais once and blew them apart in one day.When I push a full load in 8' snow bucket or do dirt work in fall that is quit a bit of stress on chains
I agree the gripped chain gives a lot better traction, especially in the woods but they really scar up the paved and concrete drives, so I don't use them.The “truck” chains I use would never break until the links were have worn halfway through from wear.Also the cost studded chains , same link size, 5/16” is way up there.Over $300 think, but I will check.
What does a set of studded 5/16 link cost you? Scott
 
I agree the gripped chain gives a lot better traction, especially in the woods but they really scar up the paved and concrete drives, so I don't use them.The “truck” chains I use would never break until the links were have worn halfway through from wear.Also the cost studded chains , same link size, 5/16” is way up there.Over $300 think, but I will check.
What does a set of studded 5/16 link cost you? Scott
Mine where $300. I do 98% gravel roads and usually hills and 1/4 mile min.
 
Mine where $300. I do 98% gravel roads and usually hills and 1/4 mile min.
I got whatever chains JD sells, round link, but they were only 4-link style; I did not know any better at the time, so I never thought to ask. I added extra cross links to make them 2-link, using grade 70 3/8" chain. I've only got maybe 20-30 hrs on them, but have not broken one yet doing hard pack, mostly. They make a huge difference. I was breaking military truck chains in as little as an hour w/ my smaller loader, so I abandoned them; allegedly they were for "2 ton trucks", but they were only about 5/16". To tighten mine, I was breaking 3/8" turn-buckles that went on diameters across the tires, so I am now using two short 5/16" chains that I draw together w/ a 3/8" bolt to make an X, if that makes sense. So far, so good, and the chains are as tight as can be. I have not tried letting air out, putting on chains, and blowing back up, but when one tire was down to about 10 psi, I hardly noticed, so I don't think they'll shrink much when deflated. Getting off subject, so I'll quit.
 
I got whatever chains JD sells, round link, but they were only 4-link style; I did not know any better at the time, so I never thought to ask. I added extra cross links to make them 2-link, using grade 70 3/8" chain. I've only got maybe 20-30 hrs on them, but have not broken one yet doing hard pack, mostly. They make a huge difference. I was breaking military truck chains in as little as an hour w/ my smaller loader, so I abandoned them; allegedly they were for "2 ton trucks", but they were only about 5/16". To tighten mine, I was breaking 3/8" turn-buckles that went on diameters across the tires, so I am now using two short 5/16" chains that I draw together w/ a 3/8" bolt to make an X, if that makes sense. So far, so good, and the chains are as tight as can be. I have not tried letting air out, putting on chains, and blowing back up, but when one tire was down to about 10 psi, I hardly noticed, so I don't think they'll shrink much when deflated. Getting off subject, so I'll quit.
I called 3or 4 places around Anchorage yesterday, Saturday and not one of them was open.Kind of suprised me but everyone is cutting back hrs. I'm glad to hear that you are paying $ 300 for a pair every thing up here is usually higher.
Anyway I 've always found militsary surplus stuff over built but I'll sure if they would have been good chains they would not have broke so easy and you guys would not have tried a better way.When I build a set ,I do shorten the distance between links and will put on 150 hrs in a plowing season, mostrly on pavement/ ice. the late spring snow thats really heavy takes a toll.
Do you guys notice any chunking of the tires with the studded chains?. It's probably a non-issue and anyway by the the second season for me my tires are pretty worn and sliced from working with the shot rock.
I do like the fact that I pay 1/4 of what I would pay for a “dealer” set and I'm able to replace the links on the machine without any special tools. I'm sure the military paid dearly for these chains before the went surplus The bolts and 3/8” chain has got to give you extra-ordinary traction and know one can knock it if it works. Scott
 
I called 3or 4 places around Anchorage yesterday, Saturday and not one of them was open.Kind of suprised me but everyone is cutting back hrs. I'm glad to hear that you are paying $ 300 for a pair every thing up here is usually higher.
Anyway I 've always found militsary surplus stuff over built but I'll sure if they would have been good chains they would not have broke so easy and you guys would not have tried a better way.When I build a set ,I do shorten the distance between links and will put on 150 hrs in a plowing season, mostrly on pavement/ ice. the late spring snow thats really heavy takes a toll.
Do you guys notice any chunking of the tires with the studded chains?. It's probably a non-issue and anyway by the the second season for me my tires are pretty worn and sliced from working with the shot rock.
I do like the fact that I pay 1/4 of what I would pay for a “dealer” set and I'm able to replace the links on the machine without any special tools. I'm sure the military paid dearly for these chains before the went surplus The bolts and 3/8” chain has got to give you extra-ordinary traction and know one can knock it if it works. Scott
Ordered mine from the dealer, a set came to $90 cannuck bucks. Still have um, didnt get any snow this year :(
 

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